Tripping without a plan, summer 2010

suntinez

Explorer
eastern UP

Off to Grand Marais after a stop at Miner’s Castle, part of the pictured rocks:

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Was going to hit a few more land-accessible points of the pictured rocks, but - more road construction. No matter, there’s dirt roads all over the place so I pick one that looks promising and wiggle around these over to Grand Marais:

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Grand Marais was first visited by Europeans in 1658 and settled in the 1850s for timber logging, lots of white pine around here.

Empty beach:
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Some historic buildings in downtown:
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Heading east from there, I meander on more dirt over to Tahquamenon Falls SP. Started out on the lake on the Grand Marais truck trail, on Co Rd 407, past Muskallonge Lake SP, then around Doug’s Trail, Kathy’s Trail, Kevin’s Trail – seems everyone has a trail here.

Arriving at the falls, I find out it’s the 2nd largest in the US, after Niagara Falls. Someone put a great restaurant and brew pub right near the upper falls, a nice stop for lunch.

Upper Tahquamenon Falls:
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I had an awesome time in the UP, I’ll definitely be going back.

There’s just no good reason I haven’t been here before, and now I wonder how it escaped my attention for so long. One of my favorite parts of the entire trip.
 

suntinez

Explorer
south to OH

Glad you’re enjoying it :elkgrin:

I dunno about that all time great thing, there are some really amazing trip reports posted here. They’re all great IMHO … I'm always glad to see new ones, and a lot of them have influenced my wandering, there’s so much out there to see :smiley_drive: This was a really fun trip though, so thanks!

Coming out of the UP, my roadtrip takes on a different feel almost immediately. Gone are the dirt roads, we’re onto interstates and toll roads now.

Interstates are definitely useful for chewing up miles, but usually pretty boring. I did get this unique view coming across the Mackinac bridge – looks empty! Really I was just the lead car after a road construction stop.

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I got mixed input on Mackinaw Island, some said “have to see it” others said “BTDT, don’t bother”. The idea of a Victorian community that has banned motorized vehicle traffic for over a century IS really appealing, but the logistics of leaving my vehicle behind for a visit this time prevented it.

Driving south I hit another crazy storm, more amazing lightning and pelting rain. Washed the yoop mud off - :( I kinda liked that mud - and made for a challenging drive south.

Arriving in Elyria OH, I’m happy to see Anne again and her pup Maya. She’s become my official “stalker” on this trip, checking my SPOT daily and suggesting things along the way to check out. I think it’s just that she’s busy with her last few days of finals, but really wants to get on the road. She rides a BMW 1200GS and is a talented fabricator - she built a box on the back to carry Maya with her.

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Pep wants to try it too! I dunno about all that, Maya is a pro.

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Her finals give me a chance to regroup and do some overdue maintenance on the Tiger – fix the backup camera, replace the rear window screen, change the oil, clean the house, refill propane and tighten up the passenger swivel seat which had gotten quite wobbly. Nothing major, just basic stuff:

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I drove into Clevleand and visited the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and Great Lakes Science Center, that was fun. OH has several halls of fame, wonder why that is? Pro football, AMA motorcycle hall of fame, etc.

Anne shows us the watering holes in her hometown, there are quite a few of them. Maya is a great swimmer – and stick fanatic:
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She’s got a great lake too – Lake Erie, just a few miles from her house:
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This is a shallow sloping beach, an easy transition for short furry people - and Pepper learned to swim here!! I was SO excited – she gets in the water every day at home, but never gets more than belly deep. Here she swam out to me and back at least 10 times. And kept doing it for about an hour! Proud dog mom.

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Another beautiful sunset here:
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Back at Anne’s, Chris Cole comes to visit and so here we have two completely different approaches to “expo” vehicles. This was the one Campa brought to OvExpo - really they’re not even comparable but they got along just fine:

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I met Anne because of the Campa kitchen, such a smart setup! I was dragging folks over to see it at OvExpo – my pal Trevor (GreenGanesha) has one of their trailers and I’ve seen it in action a few times.

I'm going to figure out a way to put that kitchen in my Tundra, just wait and see :chef:
 

FourByLand

Expedition Leader
I Love how all of this is right here in good ol' America. So many good people and wonderful things to see.

Keep going, Linda!
 

suntinez

Explorer
south to WV

Thanks everyone, much appreciated. Louis, you’re right – there is SO much to see in this country, something for everyone. And it’s just as easy to get groceries (or anything else) thousands of miles away as it is to get stuff at home. I’m so glad I did the long loop, very fortunate to be able to.

We took a ride over to Oberlin, it’s one of the schools I considered, but again – had never been. It’s a classic small college town, and a very pretty campus.

There's this really cool old windmill on the way, and we wandered over:
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It’s not functioning anymore, but we were both surprised to see this wheeled track – the whole top of it spins – or did at one time.

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Oberlin was empty, school was out of session. I was impressed with the architecture and history of these buildings:

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We went to lunch, I was skeptical of getting good Mexican food in OH, but man was I wrong! Everything was delicious at “Lupita’s Authentic Mexican Cuisine”, if you’re there it’s definitely worth a stop.

This has got to be the biggest hollyhock I’ve ever seen! I know my hollyhocks would be jealous ;)

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We went to her fab shop, Anne had to do a little battery box assembly for one of their customers :
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Besides all the cool metal fab projects going on, there were some beautiful restored muscle cars and then I saw this:
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A restored backhoe! I mean really - who restores a backhoe? I sent this pic to a friend back home who does a lot of the backhoe work around town. His response - “There’s nothing like a pretty hoe”. I knew he’d get it :)

So finals are done, it’s time to get on the road, yay!
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We head south through WV, we’re going to split up halfway – she’s heading to Greer, SC for her offroad class and I’m going to Southport, NC to visit my aunt. She’ll meet us there when her class is done. Off we go.

Heading south on I-77 it’s really hot and humid, and we see thunderclouds on our approach, it’s going to rain again:
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A stop for the kids to romp:
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We call it a day near Beckley, WV – time to find a CG. The New River Gorge is near here, and that is always awesome, but we go to Lake Stephens instead.

As soon as you turn onto route 3, it’s like step back in time – we’re in the heart of coal country, this is part of the Winding Gulf Coal Field.

The Virginian RR winds along the road, full of coal cars, billboards advertise jobs in the coal industry , you can see the ruins of old tipples, and coal camp houses still dot the road. Most of the mining along this particular road is over, but folks are still here – plenty of other mines nearby.

Down here the wheels turn slow, people are hardworking and friendly. We stopped to check directions once, and I was immediately reminded of the pace of this place. It took me years after moving to CA to stop saying “ya'll” all the time, but as soon as I walked in for some help, I forgot.

We get to the CG, they’re about to shut the office down and we get assigned a spot on the “RV” loop – I would’ve preferred the “tent” loop, but we made do. The place was packed - with empty trailers! I guess folks book for the whole month or summer, judging by the height of the grass beneath some of them. I think there were maybe 2 other sets of people here.

At the end of the loop is one finger of this amazing 250+ acre lake:

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Oh yeah, we’ll make do.

We went for a long midnight dip, so warm, with a beautiful moon lighting the way. Just what the doctor ordered after a long day’s drive.
 

BajaXplorer

Adventurer
Linda,
Just came across your trip thread. Very engrossing, nice way to spend a couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon. Looking forward to more.
Buen Viaje,
BX
 

suntinez

Explorer
a corner of VA, on the way to Southport, NC

Thanks BX, we need to get out again sometime! Here's a little more.

I would’ve loved to just toodle on route 3 to another one like it, and another, and meander my way to the next place. But we’re on a deadline, Anne has to be in Greer SC by tonight for her class tomorrow, so we get back on I-77 and head south into VA.

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This is my home state, so thanks – I feel welcome! It’s been a long time since I’ve been back. Too long.

I have probably driven most of the small backroads within a couple hour radius of Blacksburg, VA. I went to college there for a while, on a break from Boston. Memories of a little FWD Fiat with 13” wheels and no snow tires in the winter, turning down every single mountain road between the farmhouse I lived at and wherever the road went, no map, no GPS, just driving. This “no plan” thing had its roots seeded a long time ago.

But I’d never done I-77 before. It’s spectacular, even for an interstate – into the long East River mountain tunnel you enter in WV, drive through the mountain and emerge in VA, among these beautiful rolling hills of the Appalachian Mountains:

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Tiger attracts a lot of attention, but just have these two following you, and all the attention shifts! Folks slow down on the road signaling to take pictures, and when you stop, they ask lots of questions and request poses for pictures.

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We split up at Mt Airy, and I continue on towards the coast. But I have to detour near Winston-Salem to Lexington, NC first.

Why?

Well, barbecue, of course.

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I spent my summers growing up with my grandparents in this little town, and there is nothing like this BBQ anywhere. Really. They air-express this stuff all over the country, and President Reagan served it to visiting dignitaries. They’ll tell you all about that here.

As I’m happily munching my BBQ sandwich and hushpuppies, sipping tea, a few long-learned lessons come back to me. Generally, I avoid generalizations (HA!) but I find these things are still true:
  1. Southerners are serious about their meat.
  2. There are plenty of recipes for BBQ, but if you’re smart you won’t mention other ones here. If it’s not a shoulder cut, hickory smoked for over a week, it’s not real BBQ.
  3. Don’t bother asking for chicken or beef here. It’s strictly a pulled pork kind of place. And if you skip the red slaw, you’re not getting the full experience.
  4. Don’t ask for the recipe – the basics are printed on the menu – you won’t get the details if you don’t personally know the pitmaster. Even then, it’s iffy.
  5. Southerners are polite, they’ll give you what you want, if they can. But you’ll get the lifted eyebrow if you mess up on the above points.

I pick up a couple of pounds, a quart of slaw and some sauce, then back on the road. They have styrofoam coolers and pack it on ice for me, lots of it gets sent down to the coast.

Folks still know my granddaddy here, he ran the A&P grocery store for over 50 years, kept the whole town fed for a long time, that’s my “in”. I stop by their house, it looks exactly the same.

Mountain peaches are ripe and the Piedmont is the place to get them. And homemade peach ice cream …

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Mmmmm, sublime.

My detour cost me a little time, but I know better than to drive that way and not pick some up. I arrive late, almost midnight, my aunt had gone to the store to get buns so we had another BBQ sandwich within minutes of arriving. It’s the best way to say hello.

Southport is a small town in the SE corner of the state, where the Cape Fear river meets the ocean.

When folks aren’t on their front porch swings or rocking chairs, you can find them sitting by the river.

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Or fishing from the pier:
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Between the river, the ocean, and the intracoastal waterway, Southport is surrounded by water.

Shrimp boat at the small boat harbor:
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You looking at me??
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We drive over the intracoastal:
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Purty huh?

to Oak Island, this is Caswell beach.
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You'd think with all the traffic on the bridge, this place would be a mob scene, but it's never like that.

These sea turtle nests are important to the residents of Oak Island:
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There’s a dedicated group of volunteers who monitor these nests at hatching time and use flashlights to guide the babies after hatching to the ocean.

Anne is happy whenever she’s around water:
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More water toys at the south end of Oak Island, wonder if there’s a “disabled fisherman” group?
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This is my aunt Polly, one of my favorite people. She is UNSTOPPABLE – at 82 years old, there’s nothing she won’t try. She works at the visitor center in Southport. If you’re ever there, please stop in and have a chat – I guarantee you’ll be entertained by this southern lady! She’s got the inside scoop on everything around here.

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lbrito

Broverland Expert
What a captivating trip log! Thanks for sharing! There's so much to see in this beautiful country of ours that even when you flip a bottle and drive wherever it points, there will be something to see worth remembering.
 

suntinez

Explorer
Crystal Coast and Cedar Island

What a captivating trip log! Thanks for sharing! There's so much to see in this beautiful country of ours that even when you flip a bottle and drive wherever it points, there will be something to see worth remembering.

You nailed it, I couldn't agree more! America is beautiful, so much to see, something for everyone ...

During one trip over to Oak Island, we see a sign advertising skydiving and stop to check it out. We’d both wanted to, just needed a friendly nudge to do it. We sign up for tandem jumps that afternoon, and so uhhh – here we are. If you’re going to jump out of a plane, why not do it over a beautiful place?

Five of us crammed in like sardines, so hot on the ground but chilly at 12,000 feet.

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After the rush of free fall, floating down over the ocean and the intracoastal is just magical. And then you’re done, much too soon. I can see how people get hooked on this.

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Anne landing:
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And happy:
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Back on the ground, off to dinner in Hampstead with a high school friend. Their pug puppy walks us to their boats on their little piece of the intracoastal. I could definitely handle having this in my backyard.

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We’d talked about camping on the outer banks and Polly was going to come with us. The couch makes out into a 2nd bed in the Tiger, and Anne had her tent, so logistics were ok. But temps were near 100 and 95% humidity, we were having thunderstorms almost every day – so Polly decided to pass.

The ferry to Ocracoke was booked, so if it was OBX we’d have to drive the long way around. It became clear that Anne was going to have to cut her trip short because of work, but we still had a few days. We weren’t at all sure we’d find a spot on the outer banks during high tourist season, so we worked out a shorter trip. We’d just drive around, find a CG somewhere to cool the pups off, and toss them in the water wherever possible. We left the BMW and piled in the Tiger.

We drove along the Crystal Coast and stopped a few times to dip our toes in the ocean. NC sand is soft and deep, quickly – one time we pulled over to park and before we even stopped rolling, sunk in almost immediately. I gunned it out of that one, a good reminder to watch out. It’s been a long time since I drove in NC sand.

This is Surf City, the most crowded beach I found in NC:
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Almost every beach access has stairs over the dunes to protect them, and fences on the beach side to help:
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We turned north on 17 to skirt Camp LeJeune, then through New Bern and Grantsboro to Aurora to catch the ferry to Bayfield. We were heading for Bath and maybe Goose Creek SP, but I’d also contacted Osprey Nest CG on Lake Mattamuskeet that had hookups, cause it was so hot.

We were waiting for the free NC ferry in Aurora, heading for Bayfield.
aurora.jpg


I turned the generator on for some AC to keep the pups cool, and went online to do some googling about the area we were headed to. And found that our destination was a prime alligator area. I called the campground to ask if they had gators in that lake, the lady on the other end said, “Well we haven’t seen one since spring. It’s really a fishing lake, we don’t swim in it”. OK, maybe not.

We head back into town to get gas and try to find something closer. It was getting late and we were ready to stop for the day. I couldn’t get a signal in town so Anne went inside to ask.

Around here, if you don’t have time for a story, don’t ask for help. The lady working the deli counter in the store knew someone who ran a campground, they didn’t advertise, but she knew it was there. So after dishing up a mess of fried chicken for her customers, she called her ex-sister-in-law’s 2nd husband’s mother (not kidding) and found out where it was. Yes ma’am, it was still there.

Directions are a story too. It’s not “Take a left out of the driveway, head north for 6 miles, turn right onto hwy 33, turn left at the sign”. It’s more like “Drive down here til you get past Edwards, the 2nd blue building, there’s a boatyard out back, you can’t miss it. Drive past the boats, there’s a “Y” after a spell, and a gas station, bear left past the tobacco field, you can’t miss it. There used to be a sign.”

I was pretty turned around, I could’ve missed anything right then. I think they were directing me out of town a different way than we’d come in. So we ask someone else in the parking lot, and got a whole different set of landmarks.

The one thing we were clear on was – we shouldn’t turn before we saw someone on the side of the road selling watermelons out of his truck. Alrighty, off we go. We are cracking up at the directions we got, getting pretty punchy. Every single landmark from both people was right where they said it was. See, here’s the watermelon truck! Love it … you can’t miss it.

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We eventually find the campground, but it’s a permanent-type mobile home campground on Blount Bay. We can’t stay, it’s someone’s yard.

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We make our way over to Chocowinity Bay to Twin Lakes Camping Resort, find a spot and have some dinner. Not as nice as the other, but storms are rolling in again – good enough. We scavenge some wood and have a nice fire.

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We head back to the coast for more toodling around, looking for the perfect spot to throw the pups in the water.

We head up route 70, I want to drive it to the end. A stop in Davis, and I’m looking for Tundrabird tracks … do they cross here?

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We make inquiries about this ferry, sure we can take it, but I brought the wrong vehicle – just sand over there. It’s been years since I’ve been, and a certain trip report has whetted my appetite for more, but not this time.


70 turns into 12, which goes through the Cedar Island NWR, and we have the road to ourselves.

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Houses for boats:
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Gas sign, they can’t believe our CA prices … me either.
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Crab traps:
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More fishing bumpers:
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At the end of this road is the Cedar Island ferry terminal to Ocracoke, the one that’s always full in summertime. Besides a campground and hotel for those who might’ve missed their crossing, it has a spectacular waiting area for those who arrive early.

The building is under construction, but the rinse station is working:
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and down that little path is this:
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the best beach ever for the pups!
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This part of Pamlico Sound is such a shallow slope, I think you could walk a quarter mile out without getting your knees wet. We stayed for a couple hours.

Before leaving, Anne says “Try the reservations line.” So I give it a shot – someone has cancelled their reservation in a couple days. Woohooo!

$15? Yes I’ll take it :)

Ocracoke, here we come …
 

suntinez

Explorer
Not only did a spot open up on the ferry, but I was getting emails from some friends I hadn’t seen in 30 years. The entire family was gathering for a week in the outer banks, and the son who was my year in school was getting married. Talk about serendipity! Not only a once-in-a lifetime event, but somewhere to stay on the OBX. I had a couple of days before they arrived, and it turns out that finding a CG wasn’t a problem at all.

After taking the 2.5 hour ferry from Cedar Island to Ocracoke, there’s a free ferry to Hatteras:
ferry.jpg


I found a campground the first night, no problem, no reservations, just come:
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Driving route 12 north, Pamlico Sound on the left, Atlantic on the right – it just goes on and on:
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Hmm.
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Rain the previous night left some standing water:
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Stopped at Pea Island NWR, across the street are dunes to the ocean:
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And another pristine empty beach:
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Cape Hatteras lighthouse:
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Kitty Hawk, amazing to think how a chain of events that changed all our lives started on this little hill:
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Bodie lighthouse:
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Didn’t have a problem finding a campground the next night either, I really liked this place! It’s in Rodanthe, very reasonable rates and super-cheap watertoy rental if you’re camping there.

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Had another major storm in the morning. I wound up using the outdoor shower in pouring rain. That was kinda fun actually, but waited a few hours for it to pass before driving to Corolla to my friends’ rental house.
This is a whole different kind of camping, in the driveway of a massive house on the ocean:

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I had an amazing time with my friends, we did all that silly beach stuff and caught up on too many years missed. One night there was another major storm and the whole north end of the island lost power for several hours.

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I had to drive all 148 miles of this iconic road, here’s the north end. But there’s more beach driving past here …
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Spent a week with these guys, and the next few weeks visiting long lost friends in VA/MD/DC/DE/PA. I’ll skip a whole lot of that in the hopes of actually finishing this trip report.

But there were some interesting roads and places along the way, so will post some of that.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
Nice! I finally get to see some beach! That whole Outer Banks area (especially Cape Lookout NS) is a favorite getaway for me, love seeing it, now I'm going to have to plan a weekend off sometime to make up for my lack of ocean breezes this year. Thanks for the pics! :victory:


PS I love the feeling you get when you run out of road at Corolla and you hit the sand....
 
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