UJOR Build Thread

[ujoint]

Plasma, no? Looks like a Torchmate.

Yes, Torchmate.

View attachment 377322

The switch is basically just a ground switch...but three positions so you can indicate 4hi and 4lo with different indicator lamps if you want. Or just use one.

which bolt are you talking about exactly? The shifter lever to the selector shaft is 177 in-lb, the detent spring/ball nut in the bottom is 177 in-lb, the selector shaft nut (the one that requires the special socket) is 23 ft-lb, the switch is 20 ft-lb. None of them have any kind of adjustment. Once things are together, the selector shaft is hard to move but only because you don't have much leverage on it. When the in-cab shift lever is there, you've got a lot more leverage.

Thanks for posting that. We tie them together for the indicator, lights up when in 4hi or low. For the pivot I like to go pretty tight so the shifter is firm.

 

[ujoint]

Will these brackets implement the front seat mounting, will these also have an option to swivel for the passenger side? I love the seat in in my rig, but they need to be re-upholstered. I could kill two bird with one stone if these have multiple options. Also that laser is extra cool, I would love to have one of those machines.:drool:

Yes, front mounts for the reclining Sienna seats, pass side swivels.

 

[ujoint]

Chris,
This would be really useful information to include in your instructions for those of us that bought an $850 reman t-case from you. I was going to email you to ask this exact question when I got around to hooking up the wires. Just a suggestion. Thanks MG for answering my question before I had to ask.

Sounds like you're not happy with the price of the t-case?

 

[ujoint]

SoCal V10 is headed home! Great van.

Had some free time yesterday to get something done on V4, removed one x-member and made a new one that holds the upper links. One piece at a time, getting there.

 

[tgreening]

Feel free to tell me where to stuff it, but just wanted to toss out a tidbit on your 4-link. It may not matter to you but if your setup is going to see extreme articulation it's going to suffer from rear axle steer. The best way to combat that is to make your lower links a somewhat mirror image of the uppers. Iow the uppers look like a V. The lowers should look like an opposite V. The forwards should pinch in and attach to the crossmember the uppers are attached to. Hopefully that makes some kind of sense, isn't covering what you already know, and isn't out of line.

 

[ujoint]

We entered it all into a 4 link calculator and the #s are where they should be, especially factoring in our packaging restrictions/etc. Our total travel # will be determined by how much shock we can fit in there (under the bed after its modified)

 

[tgreening]

We entered it all into a 4 link calculator and the #s are where they should be, especially factoring in our packaging restrictions/etc. Our total travel # will be determined by how much shock we can fit in there (under the bed after its modified)

What, you mean you're not going to have 3' of shock sticking through a hole in the bed?

 

[ujoint]

Ha, nope!

 

[TeleSteve]

We entered it all into a 4 link calculator and the #s are where they should be, especially factoring in our packaging restrictions/etc. Our total travel # will be determined by how much shock we can fit in there (under the bed after its modified)

Those calculators are only as good as your estimate of center of gravity, but are still very helpful. Roll steer if you get much isn't too bad to deal with. But you will get some torque twist from this configuration. If you could move the front lower mounts closer together it would help. With V4s length and front end weight, I doubt it will be a big issue as is. Looking forward to seeing this finished up.
What size tube are you using for links?

 

[ujoint]

Those calculators are only as good as your estimate of center of gravity, but are still very helpful. Roll steer if you get much isn't too bad to deal with. But you will get some torque twist from this configuration. If you could move the front lower mounts closer together it would help. With V4s length and front end weight, I doubt it will be a big issue as is. Looking forward to seeing this finished up.
What size tube are you using for links?

Exactly. We did the best we could with those #s and I believe the anti squat is 89% with this current setup. Excited to get it rolling, may take a while since this isn't a priority project, just a bit of work here & there. My main goal right now is for a complete mock up so we can get shocks on order. Finish weld/etc while we wait for them.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Sounds like you're not happy with the price of the t-case?

He's ok, just at the 9 month stage of pregnancy in the birth of a DIY 4x4 conversion ya know.

 

[Backcountry Pursuit]

Sounds like you're not happy with the price of the t-case?

Happy with the price and also to have a new unit with all the hell I have been though getting bent and messed up axles from "salvage" yards that hate being called "junk" yards. That $850 price is totally competive and one of the best prices out there for a reman unit. Just sayin' the instructions could be a little more complete as the NV271 isn't mentioned at all in your PDF outside of the shifter install

 

[ujoint]

I'll add some info for that wiring. FWIW, you're the 1st one to ever ask! I guess everyone figures it out or just doesn't run an indicator light.

 

[ujoint]

Test drives all week, p/u Friday!

 

[tgreening]

I'll add some info for that wiring. FWIW, you're the 1st one to ever ask! I guess everyone figures it out or just doesn't run an indicator light.

Mark me down as one one didn't bother/care. I just look straight down to the shifter and can tell by that. One less future electrical gremlin to mess with.