UJOR Build Thread

[ujoint]

Maybe this has been asked already but I haven't found it. I have done my U-joint conversion. I love it. It handles awesome. No regrets. Except.... Well maybe just a question. I chose to go the cheaper route and put an overload spring in the rear rather than new leaf springs. Yeah I know I should have went with Chris's Custom leaf springs or Progressive Springs or put a set of airbags on.

My question is this if I took out the overload spring and went with the higher spacer block 4" on the rear axle what would that do to the overall life of the Driveline? It is kind of rough for the family. Just trying to maximize the dollars until I can afford to put airbags on.

As a side note even my wife loves the van. She was pretty skeptical. But it handles great. Even in the Idaho wind.

Nothing wrong with the add a leaf and blocks, I'd leave it alone unless you need custom spec springs for added weight/etc. Changing the block from a 3 to 4 won't negatively affect anything. May get a bit more spring wrap but I doubt it.

 

[ujoint]

New arrival, 7.3 Ambo

 

[Family-van]

So I could pull the add a leaf and just run with 4" blocks and I should not have axle wrap issues or drive line issues? Thanks.

 

[onemanarmy]

why pull the add a leaf? Blocks can (will under load) cause axle wrap. 4" block is pretty significant. Personally, I'd never go above 2" on anything.

 

[ujoint]

So I could pull the add a leaf and just run with 4" blocks and I should not have axle wrap issues or drive line issues? Thanks.

You could but I'd leave it as is. The add a leaf helps to stiffen the stock pack, it could use the help depending on mileage and use.

why pull the add a leaf? Blocks can (will under load) cause axle wrap. 4" block is pretty significant. Personally, I'd never go above 2" on anything.

3 is my limit, not a fan of anything larger.

 

[moparmiller]

For a 2002 E350 7.3 EB does the entire tranny have to come apart to put the TC adaptor on? I've seen conflicting date ranges on when the tranny changed to allow direct swaps out the tail shaft.

 

[ujoint]

For a 2002 E350 7.3 EB does the entire tranny have to come apart to put the TC adaptor on? I've seen conflicting date ranges on when the tranny changed to allow direct swaps out the tail shaft.

Yes, it does. The only transmission that can be converted to 4wd with the transmission installed is the 5R110 that was behind all 6.0s, 05/up V10s and 5.4s in the cutaway chassis.

 

[freewayross]

Chris, any plans on developing your coil kit to work with 2011+ front axles? We can take advantage of the bigger brakes on 2013+ axles.

Also for the rear axle, is there solution to wiring the abs sensor. If one wants to go with 2011+ axle? On pre 2011 models the sensor is on the pumpkin, but on newer ones they are at the wheels. The newer axles are tempting as they can be had with factory elocker.

Thanks

 

[ujoint]

Chris, any plans on developing your coil kit to work with 2011+ front axles? We can take advantage of the bigger brakes on 2013+ axles.

Also for the rear axle, is there solution to wiring the abs sensor. If one wants to go with 2011+ axle? On pre 2011 models the sensor is on the pumpkin, but on newer ones they are at the wheels. The newer axles are tempting as they can be had with factory elocker.

Thanks

Yes, we just need to get one in here. As far as I know the only difference is the sway bar mount and the brakes of course. We have a mega coil build coming up soon that will have a ton of new development on it.

I don't have a solution for the rear VSS problem w/o adding more custom parts, we'll continue to get the axles with a VSS to keep it simple and reliable.

 

[freewayross]

Yes, we just need to get one in here. As far as I know the only difference is the sway bar mount and the brakes of course. We have a mega coil build coming up soon that will have a ton of new development on it.

I don't have a solution for the rear VSS problem w/o adding more custom parts, we'll continue to get the axles with a VSS to keep it simple and reliable.

Thank you, I was going to pull the trigger on your coil DIY kit. But I guess I'll hold till you have the new build figured out. Hopefully it will include compatibility with 2011+ axles.

 

[mk216v]

Good to hear!

So, are you saying you convert the T-cases to manual from automatic, or you only use the ones that were manual to start with? I'm wondering how hard it would to be to convert mine, if that is possible. Obviously, I would have to add the lever and cut a hole in the floorboard for it, but can I just remove the vacuum actuator and it's linkage and replace it with the lever? Are there other things that would be affected or need to be changed also? Not asking for a complete tutorial here, just trying to get an idea to see if it would be worth it for a 2004 truck.

I have the option of 'Auto' or 'Lock' on my my hubs when they are working correctly, which they aren't right now. I have always liked having a gearshift on the T-case, so you can feel when it goes in or out of gear, and used to ride around off-road with my hand on the knob just so I could 'feel' it.

Manual t-case definitely has that advantage Pat. However, for the vans, it's a bit in the way if you want to install a driver side swivel. So going with the elec NV273 t-case solves the swivel, but then you lose the "feel."

Hope all is well down in FL!

 

[mk216v]

Chris, any plans on developing your coil kit to work with 2011+ front axles? We can take advantage of the bigger brakes on 2013+ axles.

Also for the rear axle, is there solution to wiring the abs sensor. If one wants to go with 2011+ axle? On pre 2011 models the sensor is on the pumpkin, but on newer ones they are at the wheels. The newer axles are tempting as they can be had with factory elocker.

Thanks

Already been done by MG of ExpoVans on this '99 7.3PSD of Gregor's; http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...tle-100-Satisfaction-Guaranteed-MG-Coil-Build

I'd have to dig back thru the thread but IIRC somewhere in there it says he went with a '15 front axle (which as it sounds like you know has ~14.3" brakes standard, vs 13" brakes of '99-12 F-series Super Duty), and a '15 rear Sterling 10.5" with e-locker.

I'm think most all of the 4x4 conversions MG has done have been using '13+ front axles and '15+ rear Sterling with e-locker in order to take advantage of bigger/safer front brakes and cheap/plentiful e-locker rear. Standard stuff for MG it seems. You may already know that the '16 front axles have even bigger knuckles, so if you can find a '16 then you get big brakes AND big knuckles for little/no extra cost compared to a <'12 axle, all depending on the wrecking yard prices you're finding of course. I think on one of the forums someone was asking about a '17 front axle and MG said it was a simple update to one bracket to allow that, in case you find a really low mileage '17 front for a fair price.

Hope that helps.

 

[mk216v]

Chris, any plans on developing your coil kit to work with 2011+ front axles? We can take advantage of the bigger brakes on 2013+ axles.

Also for the rear axle, is there solution to wiring the abs sensor. If one wants to go with 2011+ axle? On pre 2011 models the sensor is on the pumpkin, but on newer ones they are at the wheels. The newer axles are tempting as they can be had with factory elocker.

Thanks

Already been done by MG of ExpoVans on this '99 7.3PSD of Gregor's; http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...tle-100-Satisfaction-Guaranteed-MG-Coil-Build

I'd have to dig back thru the thread but IIRC somewhere in there it says he went with a '15 front axle (which as it sounds like you know has ~14.3" brakes standard, vs 13" brakes of '99-12 F-series Super Duty), and a '15 rear Sterling 10.5" with e-locker.

I'm think most all of the 4x4 conversions MG has done have been using '13+ front axles and '15+ rear Sterling with e-locker in order to take advantage of bigger/safer front brakes and cheap/plentiful e-locker rear. Standard stuff for MG it seems.

You may already know that the '16 front axles have even bigger knuckles, so if you can find a '16 then you get big brakes AND big knuckles for little/no extra cost compared to a <'12 axle, all depending on the wrecking yard prices you're finding of course. I think on one of the forums someone was asking about a '17 front axle and MG said it was a simple update to one bracket to allow that, in case you find a really low mileage '17 front for a fair price.

Hope that helps.

 

[ujoint]

Already been done by MG of ExpoVans on this '99 7.3PSD of Gregor's; http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...tle-100-Satisfaction-Guaranteed-MG-Coil-Build

I'd have to dig back thru the thread but IIRC somewhere in there it says he went with a '15 front axle (which as it sounds like you know has ~14.3" brakes standard, vs 13" brakes of '99-12 F-series Super Duty), and a '15 rear Sterling 10.5" with e-locker.

I'm think most all of the 4x4 conversions MG has done have been using '13+ front axles and '15+ rear Sterling with e-locker in order to take advantage of bigger/safer front brakes and cheap/plentiful e-locker rear. Standard stuff for MG it seems.

You may already know that the '16 front axles have even bigger knuckles, so if you can find a '16 then you get big brakes AND big knuckles for little/no extra cost compared to a <'12 axle, all depending on the wrecking yard prices you're finding of course. I think on one of the forums someone was asking about a '17 front axle and MG said it was a simple update to one bracket to allow that, in case you find a really low mileage '17 front for a fair price.

Hope that helps.

Adding a stand alone VSS is less than ideal and files into the category of adding unnecessary complication. aka, oh s&%# this axle isn't going to work. I know because I've received emails about this exact subject.

 

[Oldcarnut]

Manual t-case definitely has that advantage Pat. However, for the vans, it's a bit in the way if you want to install a driver side swivel. So going with the elec NV273 t-case solves the swivel, but then you lose the "feel."

Hope all is well down in FL!

The swivel seat brackets that are available here on this forum WILL clear the NV271 t-case lever with the U-JOINT conversion. Checked on that before ordering either and both worked together. Check the swivel seat thread.