UJOR Build Thread
- Thread starter ujoint
- Start date
desertspeed
Adventurer
Chris- what bags are those? Did you make the brackets or did they come with the bags? Are you running them front and rear, or just rear? Thanks
Wood Kutter
Observer
Those look like Firestone airbags. The lower U-bolt bracket is custom.
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Firestone bags, my brackets upper & lower. I'll have the kit posted on the site soon, just finalizing some prices. Just in the back, nothing up front.
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
I've finally finished up my 6.0 writeup and posted it to the website. We're doing more engine work at the shop lately so I decided to put together a complete kit that includes everything I feel needed to ensure long turn durability on the 6.0 diesel. We've done 3 in the last few months and I have another coming tomorrow (stock, 140K, no problems) I got tired of relying on other shops to do a good job in a decent time frame so we're doing it all in house now! We do a better job anyway 
Here's the "kit"
And the writeup
Ford 6.0 diesel
These are my thought on the common 6.0 vs 7.3 questions. All of this is my opinion based on what I've seen, and only about Ford VANS. Not trucks. Will some disagree with me? Sure. Do I know everything there is to know about either engine? Nope. Am I a 6.0 hater? No!!
There's no question that the 7.3 is a superior engine. But as we know, they're getting harder & harder to find in good condition and we cannot rule out the 6.0. I have one of each, and I'm very familiar with both. The main purpose of this writing is to identify the problems with the 6.0 and come up with real world solutions. When the 6.0 debuted it was way ahead of its time. There were early production issues, and the fact that it was rushed to market without proper training for the techs that would be servicing them didn't help. Just when everyone was getting ultra comfy with the 7.3…… they replaced it! I can imagine how frustrating this must have been and I understand why so many diesel techs placed it in the "this is a POS" folder. Especially in the vans. I know that most techs HATE working on vans, and I've dealt with this many times over the years. They start with a negative attitude before the 1st wrench is turned & I don't want these guys under my hood. It really boils down to laziness.
The biggest problem with the 6.0? Incorrect diagnosis and not repairing it properly!
Lets talk about 6.0 failures. It's always due to heat. The EGR system is the main culprit. On early 6.0's, the leftover sand from the casting process would clog the EGR cooler and cause it to rupture and introduce coolant to the intake & exhaust. Or steam into the intake, which will blow a head gasket really quick. There have been EGR cooler upgrades, but I feel the best solution is to delete it or replace with an aftermarket unit.
Another way to fail? Improper maintenance or blatant abuse. The oil & fuel needs to be clean! Fuel filters every 10K, oil & filter every 5K. I like a coolant flush every 50K too. Aggressive aftermarket tuners? Stay away. I don't like adding anything more than 60-80hp to a 6.0. Ignorance is always a problem, pushing the motor when something is going wrong will fry it quick. "I have a big bad *** diesel, it should be able to pull this grade under load no problem, pedal to the metal!!!!" Once again, you'll burn it up. I wish the factory had installed an EGT gauge, because this is the ultimate warning light. If your EGT's go too high, you have problems. I also use a Scangauge to monitor the vitals. Coolant temp, engine oil temp, boost & tranny temp. These are all just as important.
Now lets talk about the turbo. With a functioning EGR cooler, the turbo should be removed & cleaned every 30-40K. This sounds crazy, but it needs to be done! The 6.0 turbo is a variable vane unit, and the vanes can be hung up by carbon & rust. When they get stuck, the turbo doesn't build boost, EGT's go up, and we already discussed what happens then.
I often get asked about head studs. If you take the proper steps to avoid head gasket failure, you don't need them. If the failure has already happened and the heads have to come off, then absolutely install the studs. With my formula, I don't believe the head studs are needed.
UJOR is now offering what we feel to be the best setup for long 6.0 diesel life. Our full 6.0 kit includes the EGR cooler delete, Custom tuner (80 HP) AutoMeter Phantom EGT gauge, Ford Turbo outlet hose, turbo install kit & Intake gaskets, Scangauge monitor, coolant flush, fuel filters and a full inspection while we're in there (belts, hoses, etc) Please email me if you have any questions! Thanks
Here's the "kit"
And the writeup
Ford 6.0 diesel
These are my thought on the common 6.0 vs 7.3 questions. All of this is my opinion based on what I've seen, and only about Ford VANS. Not trucks. Will some disagree with me? Sure. Do I know everything there is to know about either engine? Nope. Am I a 6.0 hater? No!!
There's no question that the 7.3 is a superior engine. But as we know, they're getting harder & harder to find in good condition and we cannot rule out the 6.0. I have one of each, and I'm very familiar with both. The main purpose of this writing is to identify the problems with the 6.0 and come up with real world solutions. When the 6.0 debuted it was way ahead of its time. There were early production issues, and the fact that it was rushed to market without proper training for the techs that would be servicing them didn't help. Just when everyone was getting ultra comfy with the 7.3…… they replaced it! I can imagine how frustrating this must have been and I understand why so many diesel techs placed it in the "this is a POS" folder. Especially in the vans. I know that most techs HATE working on vans, and I've dealt with this many times over the years. They start with a negative attitude before the 1st wrench is turned & I don't want these guys under my hood. It really boils down to laziness.
The biggest problem with the 6.0? Incorrect diagnosis and not repairing it properly!
Lets talk about 6.0 failures. It's always due to heat. The EGR system is the main culprit. On early 6.0's, the leftover sand from the casting process would clog the EGR cooler and cause it to rupture and introduce coolant to the intake & exhaust. Or steam into the intake, which will blow a head gasket really quick. There have been EGR cooler upgrades, but I feel the best solution is to delete it or replace with an aftermarket unit.
Another way to fail? Improper maintenance or blatant abuse. The oil & fuel needs to be clean! Fuel filters every 10K, oil & filter every 5K. I like a coolant flush every 50K too. Aggressive aftermarket tuners? Stay away. I don't like adding anything more than 60-80hp to a 6.0. Ignorance is always a problem, pushing the motor when something is going wrong will fry it quick. "I have a big bad *** diesel, it should be able to pull this grade under load no problem, pedal to the metal!!!!" Once again, you'll burn it up. I wish the factory had installed an EGT gauge, because this is the ultimate warning light. If your EGT's go too high, you have problems. I also use a Scangauge to monitor the vitals. Coolant temp, engine oil temp, boost & tranny temp. These are all just as important.
Now lets talk about the turbo. With a functioning EGR cooler, the turbo should be removed & cleaned every 30-40K. This sounds crazy, but it needs to be done! The 6.0 turbo is a variable vane unit, and the vanes can be hung up by carbon & rust. When they get stuck, the turbo doesn't build boost, EGT's go up, and we already discussed what happens then.
I often get asked about head studs. If you take the proper steps to avoid head gasket failure, you don't need them. If the failure has already happened and the heads have to come off, then absolutely install the studs. With my formula, I don't believe the head studs are needed.
UJOR is now offering what we feel to be the best setup for long 6.0 diesel life. Our full 6.0 kit includes the EGR cooler delete, Custom tuner (80 HP) AutoMeter Phantom EGT gauge, Ford Turbo outlet hose, turbo install kit & Intake gaskets, Scangauge monitor, coolant flush, fuel filters and a full inspection while we're in there (belts, hoses, etc) Please email me if you have any questions! Thanks
Betarocker
Adventurer
I would add that if the heads come off, have them milled flat. Factory machining of the heads is best described as awful. The block deck should also be trued up using a large true-block and varying grit (coarse to fine) wet/dry paper. A coolant filter is also beneficial even with the EGR deleted.
desertspeed
Adventurer
Sweet, I will def be needing those.
McZippie
Walmart Adventure Camper
Chris, well done summary of the 6.0. Our 2009 had just about every problem listed in your write-up, plus more!
If I didn't have an extended warranty, I'd be at your shop tomorrow getting your Kit installed.
Even though our 6.0 is covered by an extended Ford warranty, to avoid the mechanic's bad attitude problem while working on Vans, I tip them big time before and after repairs.
.
2010 breakdown while on Vacation.
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2011 breakdown while on vacation, transferring stuff from Bus to Jeep to continue vacation.
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2012 engine pulled, lucky for us this time it broke down before starting our vacation.
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If I didn't have an extended warranty, I'd be at your shop tomorrow getting your Kit installed.
Even though our 6.0 is covered by an extended Ford warranty, to avoid the mechanic's bad attitude problem while working on Vans, I tip them big time before and after repairs.
.
2010 breakdown while on Vacation.
.
2011 breakdown while on vacation, transferring stuff from Bus to Jeep to continue vacation.
.
2012 engine pulled, lucky for us this time it broke down before starting our vacation.
.
.
Last edited:
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
New arrival today! SUPER clean 05 SMB in for the full 6.0 treatment and a gear job. Setting this rig up for some heavy towing. 140K with no issues. No engine work, no ck engine lights, just oil & fuel filter changes. Can't wait to see what the turbo & intake look like!
Picked up the 1st production run of roof racks today, they turned out beautiful! 5 x 9.5', expanded metal in the rear, 1/2" tubing for the front. 10 mounts & these racks were specifically designed for the vans. Each upright has 2 slotted 1/4" holes for lights or awnings, and I'l start making more accessories soon if there's enough interest. 3 of the 5 are already sold, let me know if you're interested! Price is $995 plus freight.
Picked up the 1st production run of roof racks today, they turned out beautiful! 5 x 9.5', expanded metal in the rear, 1/2" tubing for the front. 10 mounts & these racks were specifically designed for the vans. Each upright has 2 slotted 1/4" holes for lights or awnings, and I'l start making more accessories soon if there's enough interest. 3 of the 5 are already sold, let me know if you're interested! Price is $995 plus freight.
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Yea, 2 more holes for the upper mount and a new lower plate. Give me a shout and we'l make it happen.
It's almost full length on the RB, haven't mocked it up on the EB yet. Here's a pic of the rack on Vanaconda.
