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Nope, been down that road already. If it makes you feel any better, TOD buys you a 2.48:1 low compared with the 2:1 low in the non-TOD models, giving you a 30.5:1 crawl -- probably a pretty good match for mild trails.
 
So after I talked to a local transmission man about my 4L30-E tranny, he told me it's probably about time for a rebuild anyway. The trooper has 164,000 miles on the stock tranny. Maybe I'll just get it overhauled. The dent in the pan is only about 1/2" deep and 6-8 inches long. I'm wondering how deep a dent has to be to bust a solenoid or something. Any thoughts?
 
If you plan on continuing to wheel trails in the Smilely Rock range, then a oil pan/tranny skid would be a good idea. Lots of options for building your own - but I wouldn't go less than 1/8" steel or 3/8" nylon sheet backed up by some tubing.

Also, if you don't get a skid, carring a spill kit should be mandatory.

And, I'd recommend getting some of the oil (hydrocarbon) activated epoxy to use for a pan patch if needed. We've made do with the plastic from a milk jug and a ton of duct tape by cleaning everything with brake parts cleaner first, but it's not a real good setup. I'vegot a buddy who used the epoxy to fix an oil pan 4 years ago, and it's still there...
 
AZTrooper said:
So after I talked to a local transmission man about my 4L30-E tranny, he told me it's probably about time for a rebuild anyway. The trooper has 164,000 miles on the stock tranny. Maybe I'll just get it overhauled. The dent in the pan is only about 1/2" deep and 6-8 inches long. I'm wondering how deep a dent has to be to bust a solenoid or something. Any thoughts?

Fix the pan would be my recommendation.
 
Taking the pan off and pounding out the dent is what I would like to do. Does anyone know if there is anything breakable within the half inch that it dented? The pan is about 3 inches deep. If there's nothing between the bottom of the pan and where it bolts to the transmission, I just might leave it alone and fabricate a removeable skid plate.
 
Your best bet is to remove the pan and inspect the valve body for damage. Easy job and you can change the fluid at the same time. I would replace the pan as opposed to hammering it out.
 
So the valve body is within an inch and a half from the bottom of the pan huh?!? Kinda seems like not such a good design. Oh well... I'll have to unbolt the cross beam so that I can get to the bolts.
 
AZTrooper said:
So the valve body is within an inch and a half from the bottom of the pan huh?!? Kinda seems like not such a good design. Oh well... I'll have to unbolt the cross beam so that I can get to the bolts.

All automatics for passenger vehicles are designed that way :) You just need a skid plate :box:
 
So I have an appointment for a local tranny shop to check things out. Tomorrow a buddy and I are gonna make a few custom skid plates for the trooper.

Hey Scott, I have money for the air compressor. How do you propose I go about getting it?
 
So... $86 later, it turns out that the noise was coming from the pump in the tranny starving for fluid. The metal container that holds the filter about 1/2" from the bottom of the pan got crunched a little and was pinching the filter itself. This was restricting flow for the pump. So overall, not a bad diagnosis. They replaced the filter and changed fluid. Since there was a lot of metal particles on the magnet, he suggests I rebuild the tranny. I told him it shifts beautifully and I wasn't interested in a $2,000 rebuild. But for now all is well and I'm glad it turned out to be a small problem.
 
AZTrooper said:
So I have an appointment for a local tranny shop to check things out. Tomorrow a buddy and I are gonna make a few custom skid plates for the trooper.

Hey Scott, I have money for the air compressor. How do you propose I go about getting it?

Scott, I still want that air compressor. How can we make the transaction? I bought one of those fancy deflators too!!
 

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