unURBAN Adventures - Alaska to Argentina to AFRICA!

unURBAN

Adventurer
Hi E&M

I have just spent several hours over the last two days reading your incredible journal of your travels. I am so sorry i did not find your adventures earlier as I live in Botswana and would have loved to meet up with you and host you for a couple of days. As you have said several times throughout your travels - "maybe next time". I have long dreamed of travelling as you do and when the opportunity presents itself I will surely use your travel experiences as a guide. Enjoy the rest of your African adventure and safe travels.

Mike

Thanks for comment. We will let you know "next time" we are in Botswana and if your travels one day takes you to Norway let us know.

Malin & Espen
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Aloha,

Currently we are on the island of Oahu Hawaii. I have just spent fours hours of my morning poring over this thread and your website. Your journey has been inspirational. My wife Tas and I are planning our over landing trip and we were planning the basic same route you guys have taken. We`ll be in our 85 FJ60 Land Cruiser "ZEVRO". I know your running a diesel but I was curious if you paid attention to gasoline availability? What was your availability for diesel like? I`ve heard gasoline is easier to come by. Is this true in your travels?
Well, may the road to anywhere be safe and smooth. We will be following your trial in the near future.
Charlie & Tas

Hei Charlie & Tas

Other travelers we meet that had gasoline vehicles did not have any problems getting gasoline. We think you will be fine unless situation changes in any countries. A couple of times we experienced fuel shortage some places when we were in Argentina. Not a big problem.

I can't think of any time it would have been better or worse with one type of fuel.

Thanks for commenting!
Good luck with planning, and safe travels!
Malin & Espen
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Hi,

Just stumbled across your thread, very informative, inspirational and with some great pics.
We are planning a trip for next year in our Troopy camper from London through Central Asia then south to Cape Town.

Sudan looks to be very hospitable, Sudan and Ethiopia are both on the australian travel advisors hotlist for 'travel not recommended' but it looks to be pretty safe from your posts. Did you ever feel at risk in either of these countries?
How do you plan on entering Europe from Africa? We are planning Italy - Tunisia - Libya - Egypt. Although not so sure about Libya at this stage. Would be interested to see how you go.
Did you ship your vehicle from South America to South Africa with all your contents or had to remove and send separately?

Lost abound,

Thanks for comments and questions!
We found both Ethiopia and Sudan very friendly, and we felt safe at all times. In the north western corner of Ethiopia (Shire, between Simian and Axum) they have refugee traffic, so we heard we should be careful staying too long. This was info from our embassy in Addis Ababa. We had no problems, though. Sudan is considered safe as long as you stay away from the border with South Sudan and the Darfur region in the west. Coming down along the Nile to Khartoum you should be fine. We bush camped all the way, as do everybody else we have met on the way.

Libya has not issued neither tourist nor transit visas since early January this year. It may or may not be possible to get a business visa, but for us this was not an option. We think it is too dangerous at the moment.

We shipped from Zarate (Buenos Aires) in Argentina to Port Elisabeth in South Africa on a roll on - roll off vessel. This line is operated by MOL, and they used to sail about every 4-5 weeks. I did not have to remove anything from the car. It was all packed in the vehicle. I would recommend that you try to lock off your cargo area as you'll have to leave your keys with the vehicle (you cannot drive it on board). Worth noticing is that this is a "one-way" line. The vessel returns to North America from South Africa, and then eventually sails back south to South America via many other ports on the way. Not sure if I will recommend this.

So. I save one question for last. Our way out of Africa. Our plan was to enter Europe via Egypt, Jordan, and Israel. From Israel by ferry to Greece or Italy. However, this has changed. At the time, we're not sure how safe it is to cross Sinai. A few days ago we drove up to Port Said on the Mediterranean coast, and we have been waiting for the Iskenderum (Turkey) - Port Said ferry. When we arrived we heard it would be delayed a week. This morning we got an email saying that the ferry will no longer be operating from Port Said. The ferry will go directly to Duba in Saudi Arabia via the Suez. It is possible though, that the ferry will have one last call for Port Said to pick up already booked customers. We are waiting for more info. If this is the case, the only route on the east coast of Africa will be in and out through Israel. An alternative can perhaps be to ship into Port Sudan, but I don't there is a ferry service other than one going from Saudi Arabia. Visas can be a challenge.

We're still considering our options, and we'll let you know as soon as we have more info.

Espen & Malin
 

ZEVRO

ZEVRO EXPEDITION
Espen & Malin,
Thanks for getting back to us. Sounds great about the gas issue. For communications, did you guys have a sat. phone or just a cell phone? What about radio`s VHF, SSB or CB? Did you have a need for any of those? So is there anything you wish you had but didn`t and things you have but wish you didn`t? It`s so easy to over pack. You end up packing things you don`t need. Tas is developing our web site so we`ll be sure to pass it on when it is up an running. We will continue to follow you guys and learn from the pros.

Take care,
Charli & Tas
 

AXK

New member
Hi,
I've been following your adventure for some quit time now.
WOW.
Now is the time for my first post:
In case you decide to go through Israel, we (a bunch of other Patrol owners and myself) will be more than happy to show you around.
In the meantime, if there is anything I can do to assist you, feel free to ask. (Sent you me email).
Be safe
AXK
 

sg1

Adventurer
Hi,
this is unfortunate that you are stuck in Port Said. I hope the ferry to Iskenderum will run at least one last time. It was always an on-off thing and not predictable.
Having travelled by car in this part of the world a few times I have a few suggestions. I want to add though that the last time I have driven through this area was a few weeks before the war started in Syria. Things may have changed in the meantime.
If you do not want to drive the northern (and shortest) route through the Sinai because it is to close to Gaza, you can take the southern route (it is much longer, but quite beautiful) via Sharm el-Sheik, Nuweibaa and Taba to Eilat (Israel). Alternatively you can take the ferry from Nuweibaa to Aqaba (Jordan). I think it still operates. From Aqaba you can either travel a bit through Jordan (it is worth a trip) and then go via Allenby Bridge to Israel or go directly from Aqaba to Eilat. The southern route is normally a lot safer because there are a lot of hotels and tourist areas along that route. The last option is to take a container from Alexandria (no fun, expensive).
I hope you find a good solution.
Stefan
 

Lost abound

New member
Hi Espen & Malin,

Thank you for getting back to me with such a detailed answer. We always thought Libya would be an issue, last time I looked, at the beginning of this year they were still issuing tourist visas. But even then we were still a bit iffy about crossing a war torn and unstable country.

The route that Stefan has mentioned above looks to be an interesting alternative, Jordan in particular looks to have many attractions worth visiting. The trouble for us is, if we are to take this route in reverse Greece/Italy - Israel - Jordan - Egypt - Sudan, Sudan does not allow entry to visitors with Israeli visa/stamps in their passports. In some of the travel adviser agencies we have checked they mention that they "May" not allow entry if you have been through Israel. So its a bit of a difficult one. I'm hoping that with the amount of countries and visas that have been stamped in our passports they will either not notice or see that we were just passing through as part of a larger trip either that or pay our way through. It may be a bit of a naive approach but maybe we can play this to our advantage.


Interesting that you were able to do the RO RO option without removing anything from your vehicle. Most of the cargo companies that we have tried all mention that the car can only contain the factory tool kit, spare and jack. More so because, like you said, they do not lock the vehicles therefore they do not want to take any responsibility for any items inside the vehicle. Because our troop carrier is being set up as a camper in the back we can not lock off the cargo area like you guys did which is a good idea. We are looking at a 20ft container with our tires slightly deflated because of the height of the troop carrier. This way we are able to leave as many items in the car as we like and the container and car are both locked. However this is considerably more expensive, from Sydney to the UK, about $5000 AUD (same as USD).

How did you go with your passports, they must be completely filled with visas and stamps, do you travel with two passports? With Australian passports you can request a frequent travelers passport which has more pages. I'm thinking this will be something that I'll have to organise before we leave because my current passport is nearly full but doesn't expire until sept 2015.

Anyway, thanks again for your info, keep on posting as we are very keen to see how you go on this leg of your journey!

Jerome & Jess
 

sg1

Adventurer
Hi Jerome and Jess,

when I travelled through Israel I asked the Customs Agents whether they can let me in without a stamp. Without any further comment they put the Entry Stamp on a separate piece of paper which they simply collected when I left Israel. I have no stamp in my passport. The other problem is, of course, the Entry Stamp to Jordan. It shows the border post you used (in my case King Hussein or formerly Allenby Bridge) which you can only reach via Israel. A smart Sudanese Border Agent who knows his geography can figure out that you must have come through Israel. How likely is that? I do not know.
Regards Stefan
 

korisu56

Adventurer
Congratulations on your trip thus far, and good luck for the rest of your trip! I just spent the last couple of days reading through the entire thread, and can't wait to finish my 9-month work trip so I can get home and enjoy the open road again.
 

Lost abound

New member
Thanks Stefan, I've heard of this being allowed. That they stamp a separate document rather than in your passport. Sounds like an option. Like you said though the entry stamp into Jordan will show that you have entered via Israel. Wondering if this would make things even more difficult for you if the Sudanese officials did detect it. It's like you are trying to hide it which could arouse more suspicion. We'll Have to think of something, surprisingly there are not a whole lot of options for entering Africa from Europe in order to travel the east coast.
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Espen & Malin,
Thanks for getting back to us. Sounds great about the gas issue. For communications, did you guys have a sat. phone or just a cell phone? What about radio`s VHF, SSB or CB? Did you have a need for any of those? So is there anything you wish you had but didn`t and things you have but wish you didn`t? It`s so easy to over pack. You end up packing things you don`t need. Tas is developing our web site so we`ll be sure to pass it on when it is up an running. We will continue to follow you guys and learn from the pros.Take care,
Charli & Tas

Hey!

Pros and pros... I think we all have to find what is right for ourselves. There is no absolutes about overlanding.... :)

You will pack and bring too much stuff, That is just the way it works. Luis from Lost world expeditions described overlanding as being in a hot air balloon loosing altitude. You throw over board as much as you can. Still, we do have a few adivice. If you are a couple, bring two Laptops. This is a "marriage saver". Also, we miss a Kindle. We now have a box of books, and this takes up too much space and weight.

After arriving in Africa we normallly pick up a local SIM card for our cell phone when we cross a border. In Africa this is dirt cheap, and it allows us 3G or Edge data transfer. In South America we felt we had good enough access to wifi as we travelled. This is not the same in Africa. We also travel With a sat phone. However, this is mostly switched off and stored in the car for emergencies.

We do not travel witha a radio. If you want to bring VHF into different countruies, you technically need to aquire a radio license or temporary radio license from the countries you are visiting. The only time i really wished i had a CB radio was in Canada when we travelled on the loggers roads in the forrests. It is always good to now when a huge truck is coming your way on a narrow road. It is not many overlanders that use radio these days. Cell phone receptions is normally good, and with 3G you have internet connection for emails. in really remote areas you should perhaps have a sat phone if you do not team up with other overlanders.

E&M
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Hi,
this is unfortunate that you are stuck in Port Said. I hope the ferry to Iskenderum will run at least one last time. It was always an on-off thing and not predictable.
Having travelled by car in this part of the world a few times I have a few suggestions. I want to add though that the last time I have driven through this area was a few weeks before the war started in Syria. Things may have changed in the meantime.
If you do not want to drive the northern (and shortest) route through the Sinai because it is to close to Gaza, you can take the southern route (it is much longer, but quite beautiful) via Sharm el-Sheik, Nuweibaa and Taba to Eilat (Israel). Alternatively you can take the ferry from Nuweibaa to Aqaba (Jordan). I think it still operates. From Aqaba you can either travel a bit through Jordan (it is worth a trip) and then go via Allenby Bridge to Israel or go directly from Aqaba to Eilat. The southern route is normally a lot safer because there are a lot of hotels and tourist areas along that route. The last option is to take a container from Alexandria (no fun, expensive).
I hope you find a good solution.
Stefan

Stefan,

Thanks for commenting and for advice. We ended up driving "around" the Sinai peninsula and crossedd the border to Israel at Taba-Eilat. The ferry from Port Said is canceled and will probably not start again aanytime soon. The shipping Company told us the ferry will now run between Iskenderun and Duba in Saudi Arabia (via the Suez Canal of course). There is also a ferry operating between Alexandria and Mersing, but this is as far as i know not available for tourist vehicles. And this ferry was also stopped for a few weeks when we were in Port Said.

The roads going across the Sinai are also closed. It is only possible to drive along the coast. On the south western part the road goes inland for about 60 kilometers. Here they would not let us through without police escorte. The ferry from Nuweiba to Aqaba is running every day. The customs on Egypt side has a bad reputation, but we did not try this. On the border to Israel customs were relatively efficient and professional. Israel side is slow but everybody working there is VERY polite, friendly and correct. All vehicles must be emptied COMPLETELY, and everything goes through scanners. Even the car. This crossing takes easily 5 hours.

We also looked into shipping in a container. Possible from both Alexandria and Port Said (and also Safaga south of Hurghada), but difficult to get a complete picture of the costs when you're in a hurry. This was one reason for going for the Sinai option.

The plan now is to take the ferry from Haifa in Israel to Greece, and then keep driving north...

E
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Hi Espen & Malin,
Thank you for getting back to me with such a detailed answer. We always thought Libya would be an issue, last time I looked, at the beginning of this year they were still issuing tourist visas. But even then we were still a bit iffy about crossing a war torn and unstable country.
The route that Stefan has mentioned above looks to be an interesting alternative, Jordan in particular looks to have many attractions worth visiting. The trouble for us is, if we are to take this route in reverse Greece/Italy - Israel - Jordan - Egypt - Sudan, Sudan does not allow entry to visitors with Israeli visa/stamps in their passports. In some of the travel adviser agencies we have checked they mention that they "May" not allow entry if you have been through Israel. So its a bit of a difficult one. I'm hoping that with the amount of countries and visas that have been stamped in our passports they will either not notice or see that we were just passing through as part of a larger trip either that or pay our way through. It may be a bit of a naive approach but maybe we can play this to our advantage.
Interesting that you were able to do the RO RO option without removing anything from your vehicle. Most of the cargo companies that we have tried all mention that the car can only contain the factory tool kit, spare and jack. More so because, like you said, they do not lock the vehicles therefore they do not want to take any responsibility for any items inside the vehicle. Because our troop carrier is being set up as a camper in the back we can not lock off the cargo area like you guys did which is a good idea. We are looking at a 20ft container with our tires slightly deflated because of the height of the troop carrier. This way we are able to leave as many items in the car as we like and the container and car are both locked. However this is considerably more expensive, from Sydney to the UK, about $5000 AUD (same as USD).
How did you go with your passports, they must be completely filled with visas and stamps, do you travel with two passports? With Australian passports you can request a frequent travelers passport which has more pages. I'm thinking this will be something that I'll have to organise before we leave because my current passport is nearly full but doesn't expire until sept 2015.
Anyway, thanks again for your info, keep on posting as we are very keen to see how you go on this leg of your journey!
Jerome & Jess

Israel does not stamp your Passport. You get a "visa" on a separate piece of paper that stays in your passport. But of course, an immigration officer in SSudan might recognize the stamp. However, I think that you chances are good in Wadi Halfa, and if they make trouble, I'm pretty sure it can be taken care off. Check this with one of the fixers before going across. For Sudan you need to obtain a visa before arriving (you can not get it at the border). If you apply for a visa at a Sudanese embassy before leaving home, they will be able to tell you if having Israel on yur travel itinerary is a problem.

We do travel with two passports, but so far we've haven't used our second one.

I have the understanding that as long as you are willing to accept the risk leaving stuff in the car, they will let you ship roro. You might have to explain this to the shipping agents. I've heard of overlanders installing a plywood wall behind the seats, and then installing a second lock on the rear dors. At least it will take time and effort to get in. Also try to find sailings where you load at the last port of the continent you are leaving, and offload from the vessels first port on the destination continent.

Our passports are filling up. It is only a couple of countries on the east cost of Africa that still use the big one-page-visas. A normal passport will do. If you go back up on the west coast, though, I'm not sure.....
E
 

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