upgrade Sport or Rubicon?

[haven]

I'm sure this question has been asked and answered before, but point me in the right direction.

The Wrangler Unlimited Sport costs $8000 less than the Rubicon. Assuming you plan to upgrade the suspension to a four inch lift and install 35 inch tires, does it make financial sense to buy the Sport and upgrade the axles too, or buy the Rubicon and keep its axles?

For example, the Currie Rock Jock (a variation of the Dana 60 axle) for the Jeep JK costs about $7000 a pair.

Another angle to consider is that dealers are less willing to discount the Rubicon, so you might gain another $500 by getting a deal on a Sport.

 

[Hawkz]

I bought a TJ Rubicon because I do not plan to go bigger than a 35" tire. If you plan to go bigger then you should replace the axles so the Rubicon package is kind of a waste IMO. (I have 35" tires on zero lift with tube fenders on my current Jeep.)

If I was going to buy a new Wrangler I would probably still buy the Rubicon but for the same reasons...

 

[Capt Eddie]

Get the Rubicon. I got the Sport and even putting lockers in it is just not a Rubicon.

 

[nwoods]

I am not too sure about the JK's, but with respect to the TJ/LJ Rubicons, there were tons of things where I would read something like, "When performing this mod, you must replace the (fill in blank), except for Rubicon models...". The transmission is much better, the axles are much beefier, the lockers, the radiator size, an oil cooler is included, the sye angles don't need changing, the tummy tuck is different (not sure why), I think even the drive shafts are different. There are lots of little things that are purposeful upgrades in the Rubicon model. If you are buying new or nearly new, it really is cheaper in the long run to start with a Ruby and just upgrade the suspension links for your intended lift, then tweak the gearing to suit your tire size, and thats really all you have to do for a VERY capable rig.

 

[Bigjerm]

What model year? If its the TJ/LJ models I would say save it and upgrade the sport. You can even find the Rubicon transfer case on craigslist to get the 4:1 ratio. If its a new JK not sure. Would be hard to find the transfer case for the 4:1 since not many people are doing full atlas style builds, yet. But many people successfully run 35's on the stock 30/44 axle combo of the JK so you could regear, lock front and rear and put on a currie anti-rock (since there is no e-disco sway bar on the sport) and be done and well under that $8k difference.

 

[jscusmcvet]

I have had both a TJ Rubicon and now have a TJ sport. I agree with what has been said so far. The Rubicon is an easier build from a cost and from a mechanical standpoint. Primary differences in the Rubi are:

xfer case - best transfer case jeep has used

No SYE - when you lift

Upgraded axle shafts can be done for hundreds rather than replacing whole axle assemblies for thousands. Easily run 35's with upgraded shafts and I have seen 37 on some rubi's that see some serious rock crawling.

Disc brakes all around. To be honest I don't recognize any difference in stopping power, but the disc brakes are sure easy to work on and maintain.

It is my perception that the Rubi holds it's value better.


So unless you are going to do a really extreme build, I recommend the Rubicon.

 

[Brazos609]

...The transmission is much better, the axles are much beefier, the lockers, the radiator size, an oil cooler is included, the sye angles don't need changing, the tummy tuck is different (not sure why), I think even the drive shafts are different...

The transmission is the same, the front D44 is only D44 in the center section, the rest is D30, I have never heard of a different radiator, I have never heard of an added oil cooler, a tummy tuck on a Rubicon is more involved because you have to relocate the air pump.

 

[wardrow]

The transmission is the same, the front D44 is only D44 in the center section, the rest is D30, I have never heard of a different radiator, I have never heard of an added oil cooler, a tummy tuck on a Rubicon is more involved because you have to relocate the air pump.

Actually there are a few more little things to doing a tummy tuck. 1st. is to do a 1" body lift and then a 1" motor mount lift. 2nd. is to use an an AEV tummy tuck but instead of doing a 1" body lift you just dimple the tub, however you will feel more radiant heat coming up trough the floor boards and some people report hearing their trans vibrating on the tub. you still need to do a 1" motor mount lift. The benefit of having a 1" body lift is it also lifts the radiator so you don't have to trim the fan shroud. If you ever replace the stock fuel tank with something from Gen right or Kilby you will wish you had the 1" body lift. Granted this is only for TJ /LJ.

If I ever build a true rock crawler I would go the rout of a plane jane TJ / LJ and put in an atlas and pro rock 60's with a high line kit, 2" lift and 37's.

The JK is a different animal and again I think it comes down to what your goals are. 35's on a JK is no big deal, again if i were only rock crawling I would still want 60's front and rear. For me, my current Rubi made since cause it's my exploration rig and I never plan on anything bigger than 33's and a stock Rubi is one of the most capable vehicles ever made. Comes down to what you see your self doing.

 

[nwoods]

The transmission is the same, the front D44 is only D44 in the center section, the rest is D30, I have never heard of a different radiator, I have never heard of an added oil cooler, a tummy tuck on a Rubicon is more involved because you have to relocate the air pump.

I meant transfer case, not transmission. I'm a little fuzzy on the details. To the best of my knowledge, the parts numbers are diff for the Radiator on the Ruby (I had to look that up a few years ago), and I recall that my Ruby had an oil cooler and the Sports did not. Don't know why.

 

[Bigjerm]

Actually there are a few more little things to doing a tummy tuck

I think he just meant between a Rubicon and a Sport you have to relocate the air pump to do a tummy tuck (the difference between the two). Driveshafts are another difference with the Rubicon not needed a SYE.

 

[cocco78]

If looking at the TJ/LJ I would rather have the sport and upgrade, lower initial cost. I would rather have an np231/D300 doubler instead of just the 4:1, most of the time 4:1 is just to low for anything but rocks so you would have your stock low range then an even lower one. The D44 front is basically a D30 with a D44 ring gear, thin wall axle tubes, small shafts/joints, small brakes, and ball joints, so no real upgrade there. 4.10's really isn't enough gear for 35's, a 4.0L 5 speed on 33's then yea 4.10' are pretty good...

I don't know much about the new Jeeps, I'll never own one so I don't really pay attention to the specs.

 

[The Swiss]

Being into overlanding and not rock crawling or extreme wheeling, for me the JKU Rubi is the right choice. My Jeep is my daily driver so it has to work every day all day. Don't have time, patience, desire or ability to make stuff work, I like when it works straight out of the box.

 

[cjlewis]

If you do wheel be aware that the Rubicon is not bullet proof. I am not a hardcore rock crawler but I did bend my front Dana 44. My solution is to replace with a more substantial axle. Granted I will be reusing all the internals but it hurts to have to replace Rubicon parts...all part of Jeeping I guess.

Interesting the Jeep dealership is stock replacement Rubicon front axles (not a good sign).

 

[Septu]

A couple things to consider:

- A Rubicon will hold it's value better than a sport (regardless of how bad *** you build it)
- You do not need 4" of lift for 35s. 2.5" will easily clear 35s.
- If you plan on ordering the JK, then doing a complete overhaul (D60's etc), then yes it's probably cheaper to get a sport. However if you're just planning on a few smaller things, and are thinking long term (and you actually want to wheel it in the mean time), getting a Rubi allows you to have the tires & lockers right off the bat.
- You can sell your Rubi take offs (including axles) to cover new parts.

The only differences are:
- The factory lockers (front and rear)
- The lower 4lo ratio (4:1 vs 2.34:1(?))
- Electronic sway bar disconnect
- Front D44
- Lower gear ratio options 3.73 or 4.10 gears (3.73s were standard initially with auto's in 2012 - I had to pay the $75 extra to get 4.10s - however I believe that might have changed part way through 2012)
- Stiffer suspension/shocks

You have to decide what your final build is, and whether you want to finance part of that (I choose to as I wanted to wheel and knew it would be several years before I had the funds to build this to what I wanted). But if you don't plan on changing out the axles, then a Rubi with it's stock e-lockers will likely serve you just fine.

 

[TreeTopFlyer]

It was an easy decision for me, have all the upgrades in the payment AND have it warrantied. Then spend what I had leftover from the Ex to spend on other mods.