Van heating thread

[TeleSteve]

Seems that this discussion is focused on boondocking heat sources? I've seen examples of the propane furnaces that sit outside of the van or tent and pipe the hot air in. My parents have a Roadtrek with an unknown furnace and it is LOUD! It is something that you run before bed, hunker down in good sleeping bags, then fire it up when you wake. I think I would seriously consider something like a Zodi tent heater than have anything internal.

Sometimes my camping has access to an electrical hookup. Has anyone tried a heater like this in their van? Even space heaters with a built-in thermostat keep me awake.

I have been tossing around the idea of adding electric radiant floor heating for those times when we have shore power. Something like this possibly
. As of now we just use a ceramic heater, but it is noisy. When boondockong we run a gasoline Webasto.

 

[Bikersmurf]

In floor would prevent attaching anything to the floor. Probably not a problem but just to keep in mind.

 

[java]

I have been tossing around the idea of adding electric radiant floor heating for those times when we have shore power. Something like this possibly
. As of now we just use a ceramic heater, but it is noisy. When boondockong we run a gasoline Webasto.

I have a little 1500W electric we can use when plugged in. Cheap and easy. Warm floors would be nice though....

I spoke with Sure Marine, I was concerned about sooting in a Webasto at altitude, I was told if your able to run it on kerosene it will need far far less frequent cleanings. That being said I am running a separate tank. I will see how i like it long term...

 

[flightcancled]

Zombie post, but after searching and searching for days this is still the best resource for this information:

I have a gas cabin heater on the way. Has anyone tried putting a bunk heater under the passenger or driver seat in an E-Series? This is the preferred Sprinter location, and sounds like it works in Transit vans. I don't have a cabinet to hide it in this time and don't want it just kicking around along a wall or something.

Idea #2 was to do the install in a sealed frame rail battery box. That would be a safe, low rust exposure location. Hot air could be ducted to a wall vent. In the ambulances I have torn down their duct was all reflectix type insulation which was formed into boxes and then hidden inside the walls. This could easily be done to route into the narrow wall gaps. Or maybe just go up the fuel fill tunnel and put the vent on/near there. This would also be a good solution for those afraid of the noise from the pump and fan.

Note: The ideal location in an E series to run an air vent inside the walls would be the rear corners. It's big enough to fit your arm in there and easy to access from inside and the tail lights.

 

[java]

Zombie post, but after searching and searching for days this is still the best resource for this information:

I have a gas cabin heater on the way. Has anyone tried putting a bunk heater under the passenger or driver seat in an E-Series? This is the preferred Sprinter location, and sounds like it works in Transit vans. I don't have a cabinet to hide it in this time and don't want it just kicking around along a wall or something.

Idea #2 was to do the install in a sealed frame rail battery box. That would be a safe, low rust exposure location. Hot air could be ducted to a wall vent. In the ambulances I have torn down their duct was all reflectix type insulation which was formed into boxes and then hidden inside the walls. This could easily be done to route into the narrow wall gaps. Or maybe just go up the fuel fill tunnel and put the vent on/near there. This would also be a good solution for those afraid of the noise from the pump and fan.

Note: The ideal location in an E series to run an air vent inside the walls would be the rear corners. It's big enough to fit your arm in there and easy to access from inside and the tail lights.

It will be tight under an E Series seat (sold my E series so I dont have exact measurements in front of me) but if there is nothing in the way under the floor that should be a good spot. The nose of the heater could stick out a little under the drivers feet and not get in the way IMO.

The pumps are noisy, you will hear it even if its down on the frame rail.

 

[java]

Ill add the info for my new truck as well.

I have a 11,942 BTU (3500W) Webasto Diesel heater inside my box truck. 12' floor length, 7' width, 8' ceiling. Spray foam in the walls and ceiling (none in floor yet), 1.75" walls, 3.75" ceiling. I camp in temperatures as cold as about-10*F (so far) (or -23.3*C) and I think this heater is too big (sort of), it works great, but the burner cool down cycle drives the temp way up after T-stat cut off. From cold, it brings the temp up in the living space in a few minutes. I need to track fuel usage a bit better, but so far I have burned about 1.5 Gallons of kerosene in ~20 ish nights. Not all below freezing. Temp usually set around 50-55 inside. It runs every 1.5 ish hours overnight when in freezing temps. I leave roof vents open.

 

[flightcancled]

I don't get why people are installing these systems in their rig and expecting them to be silent. You're basically putting a small jet engine in your living space. The fact that more noise comes from the fuel pump than the fan is incredible.

I have seen where guys have added foam between the mount and the pump to decrease the transmission of the noise. Makes sense. Personally I am thinking about putting mine in a small pelican case to protect it from Northeast rust.

 

[java]

I don't get why people are installing these systems in their rig and expecting them to be silent. You're basically putting a small jet engine in your living space. The fact that more noise comes from the fuel pump than the fan is incredible.

I have seen where guys have added foam between the mount and the pump to decrease the transmission of the noise. Makes sense. Personally I am thinking about putting mine in a small pelican case to protect it from Northeast rust.

I used a quick fist to hold the pump, that made a big difference.

I knew perfectly well what I was getting into, and yes the fan is loud too, but I think that is the noise people expect to hear from a heater. Not a ticking fuel pump. Either way it doesn't really bother me, I am a light sleeper and hear it, I just know it means the heat is kicking on and roll over.

 

[Bbasso]

I didn't expect the Espar D4 to be quiet like a buddy heater (what is?), but what I wanted was the ability to choose / set the heat and not worry about being cold.

 

[Corneilius]

I didn't expect the Espar D4 to be quiet like a buddy heater (what is?), but what I wanted was the ability to choose / set the heat and not worry about being cold.

I can personally attest that Robs ^^^ is loud enough to wake the guy in the van parked next to him....required minimum isolation distance of 25 feet

 

[luthj]

Espar heaters need intake and exhaust mufflers. They make a huge difference.

The fuel pumps can be isolated so they are silent inside, and quiet outside.

 

[Bbasso]

But once it achieves desired temps inside the exhaust sounds quiet down tremendously w/o the muffler.

Besides the Espar sounds, my snoring requires a minimum distance of 25ft lol.

 

[flightcancled]

I've read that the exhaust mufflers cause the units the build up carbon inside and die much faster. I guess if you're okay doing an annual rebuild no problem. I really didn't think my D2 was that loud. I did have it exhausting out the side of the ambulance so the sound was directed sideways, not bouncing off the pavement.

I have a gas powered unit coming. I'll see how that compares.

 

[luthj]

The carbon buildup is almost always caused by poor/improper installation. Usually too many bends, too long of intake/exhaust. There are larger pipes to offset this if needed. The other cause is operating above ~ 5500 ft without an altitude sensor for longer periods.

Having too large a heater for the space can cause carbon. The heater cycles way too much, and doesn't run on high long enough.

I know of installs with almost 2000 hours, and never been removed. The only service was replacing the glow pin screen every year or two.

Running kerosene through the heater once a year does a great job of for of cleaning them.

 

[mezmochill]

In the western US, altitude is the issue. Yearly maintenance is needed.

Other than that, the espar/webasto air heaters are sweet.