Warn Industries Supports Expedition Portal

[Balzer]

Im sure it would be fine as long as its big enough to handlle the 16.5's pulling power. I myself have black/grey 3/8's synthetic rope from viking on my 9k warn and love it. I do know my 3/8's rope is rated at 17,900lbs where the 3/8's cable was only rated at 12k.

 

[911regular]

The olympus is 5/8"x100ft rated at 25,000lbf,,,the line that came with the 16.5ti is 7/16"x90 ft rated at 16,500.

 

[Warn Industries]

I figure this is the best place to ask,,,is it possible to use the synthetic rope from an Olympus winch on the 16.5ti? I just purchased a 16.5ti and would prefer to use synthetic line, and black synthetic goes with my color scheme better,,lol

No, the rope for the Olympus won't work on the 16.5ti.

- Andy

 

[911regular]

No, the rope for the Olympus won't work on the 16.5ti.

- Andy

soooo,,,do you have any suggestions for synthetic on a 16.5ti?

 

[BigAl]

Hmm ... it sounds like there is definitely something going on that isn't right. Please give our Customer Service Specialists a call at 800-543-9276. They should be able to help you get to root cause here. That shouldn't be happening.

- Andy

Thanks, my dealer keeps giving me new ones. He thinks my locker is causing the problem, too much traction. I will call the number and see if they can help

 

[Warn Industries]

soooo,,,do you have any suggestions for synthetic on a 16.5ti?

Not really. Warn Industries doesn't offer a synthetic rope that'll work for the 16.5ti. We only pull test our ropes on our winches, so I can really only comment on our products.

- Andy

 

[MedicalCowboy]

Hello warm I'm new to the forum, but was wondering what would be the perfect winch for my 2002 Tahoe that wouldn't break the bank lol I would mailnly be using one for farm work and other such things. Thanks so much! and thank you for helping make this forum possible.

 

[MedicalCowboy]

Just realized I put warm instead of warn sorry lol

 

[Warn Industries]

Hello warm I'm new to the forum, but was wondering what would be the perfect winch for my 2002 Tahoe that wouldn't break the bank lol I would mailnly be using one for farm work and other such things. Thanks so much! and thank you for helping make this forum possible.

Check out our VR10000 or VR12000; both would be a good winch that won't break the bank.

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/entry_level_series_winches.shtml

And you're welcome: We're proud to be a part of this great forum!

- Andy

 

[MedicalCowboy]

Thanks so much for the quick reply! I'll go see my local dealer today and chat him up about these two!

 

[evldave]

I rebuild my 9k warn winch, and I must say thier parts web site is great! They give you a nice exploded view so you can locate and identify the parts you need to replace. Its based off the numbers on the winch so you KNOW your getting the exact part you need.

I used to think all winches where created equil, until I needed to replace some parts on another brand I wont mention. talk about a pain in the butt to just find the parts I needed. Then I rebuilt the warn, it had a hard life in its previous owners hands, but all the parts I needed where easy to find. once it was done I discovered not only was it 1000lbs more pulling power but faster and didnt draw as much power doing so. I now have 3 warn winches my 9k, a 12k that needs a tiny bit of work and a 12k that needs a lot of work LOL. I plan on getting the first 12k ready and mount it on my 94 chevy K1500. And havent really made a plan for the other 12k YET.

Thanks Warn!

For anyone in the Portland, OR area, rather than spend a lot of time/effort on rebuilding your Warn, take it down to their service center in Milwaukie. I took an old M8000i I got free from an uncle, dropped it off and they rebuilt the control box (new solenoids), new controller (5-wire instead of 3 wire I think), all new cables, and went through the motor...total cost $108 out the door! I got way more stuff than I would have thought for that much, and it was done in less than a day. Nice guys, great service, and a lot easier than rebuilding it myself (probably more reliable too)

 

[Warn Industries]

For anyone in the Portland, OR area, rather than spend a lot of time/effort on rebuilding your Warn, take it down to their service center in Milwaukie. I took an old M8000i I got free from an uncle, dropped it off and they rebuilt the control box (new solenoids), new controller (5-wire instead of 3 wire I think), all new cables, and went through the motor...total cost $108 out the door! I got way more stuff than I would have thought for that much, and it was done in less than a day. Nice guys, great service, and a lot easier than rebuilding it myself (probably more reliable too)

Indeed, the WARN factory is an Authorized Service Center. You can find a complete list of Service Centers here: http://www.warn.com/corporate/authservicecenters.shtml

- Andy

 

[Balzer]

Nice! It seams like Six States Distributors does a little bit of everything here in Utah. Good to know they are a Warn authorized service center too. Thanks for that.

 

[Redline]

snip... they rebuilt the control box (new solenoids), new controller (5-wire instead of 3 wire I think), all new cables, and went through the motor...total cost $108 out the door! I got way more stuff than I would have thought for that much, and it was done in less than a day. Nice guys, great service, and a lot easier than rebuilding it myself (probably more reliable too)

That's a good tip, I don't live nearby by visiting nearby occasionally.
Sounds like a great deal/value to have them do the work.

 

[homemade]

Warn premium manual locking hubs

Manufactured in Clackamas right? If so that would be the second thing this week I was shocked to find made in USA, the other was Rubbermaid ActionPacker, at least it said "made in USA" on the shipping box. It is sad that it is a suprise when I see "made in USA" rather than the ubiquitous "made in China" label.

It took longer to run down to the NAPA store to buy vacuum caps (3/16&#8221 to block the lines than it did to install the hubs. Super easy, no mess, no fuss (except the filthy vacuum lines), I should have done this a year ago when my auto hubs started acting up on my ‘04 F350. I read that these hubs end up being recessed in the hubcaps (because they don't stick out as much as the stock auto hubs) but this proved to be a non-issue. They are flush with the inside edge of the hubcap recess and don't look out of place, if anything they look better than the stock units. I already don't miss the auto hub feature, at all.

Kudos to Warn