Water Tank for Trailer

FlatlinesUp

Adventurer
...snip...Just spitballing... Thoughts? Potential problems or pitfalls?

they are 60 gallons.
2x60=120 gallons
8.3lbs per gallon x 120 = 996 lbs of water.

you fillin a wilderness swimming pool? :)

way (way) too much based on the above reading (30gal more than enough for 10 days)

here's something that might fit the "out of the box" bill and do what you want at a better quantity size (4 gallons each): http://www.kolpinpowersports.com/products/water-and-fuel-packs/water-pack_2.html
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
If you let me know what size you are looking at (LxWxH) and what fitting you want (3" clean out, 1/2" drain etc.) I can quote you cost on a poly tank.
 

ecameron97

New member
I just went with a 15 gallon sprayer tank from Harbor Freight

It comes with a 12v pump already mounted. I placed it on the tongue and am building a box around it with a kitchen sink and faucet. Here is a picture of what I have so far.





Oh, and I got it on sale for around $80.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
I just went with a 15 gallon sprayer tank from Harbor Freight

It comes with a 12v pump already mounted. I placed it on the tongue and am building a box around it with a kitchen sink and faucet. Here is a picture of what I have so far.





Oh, and I got it on sale for around $80.


Is it made from food grade plastic?
 

ecameron97

New member
Plastic films and containers of food grade quality are made from polycarbonate, polyester or polyethylene.

This is made out of Polyethylene, so yes it is safe.
 

socaljeeper

Adventurer
I put a 19 gal tank in my trailer that I purchased on ebay along with a 2.8 gpm shurflo pump. It is mounted in a custom box with a pull out faucet, easy hose fill and 20' hose. I used the quick connects so I can detach the water supply from the hose and connect it to my portable sink and faucet. The pump and tank cost about $115. Works well and 19 gal is plenty of water for about a 5 day trip.

P1020378.jpg
 

REasley

Adventurer
Plastic films and containers of food grade quality are made from polycarbonate, polyester or polyethylene.

This is made out of Polyethylene, so yes it is safe.

That's not quite true. A tank built from all virgin low, linear low or high density polyethylene is ok for potable water, but if it contains any reprocessed poly, it is not. If it is built from cross linked polyethylene it is not safe. Check with the molder of the tank to determine the content. Do not assume. A molder will often include repro to lower costs and it would not surprise me that Harbor Freight, in looking for the lowest possible cost, might use a tank of lower quality. This tank was built to be used for spray chemicals where a little repro in the blend wouldn't matter. You can use it if you wish, but I have spent a few years in the polyethylene industry and I would advise caution.
 

REasley

Adventurer
After taking another look at the photo, I can tell you that that particular sprayer is built by Master Mfg. and is distributed exclusively thru Valley Industries in Paynesville MN. You can call them and ask about the tank, but they don't build the sprayer or the tank or and probably can't tell you exactly what the tank is made of. PM me and I will give you the info on who to talk to.
 

SAR_Squid79

Explorer
they are 60 gallons.
2x60=120 gallons
8.3lbs per gallon x 120 = 996 lbs of water.

you fillin a wilderness swimming pool? :)
LOL! I hadn't even thought of that, yet. I guess I didn't notice the capacity...

*EDIT*:After re-reading it, I think that the WaterMate is only sold in pairs, and is vehicle specific. So I think they're saying that if you got the biggest model (say for an F-250 truck), and filled both tanks, you'd have "UP TO" 60 gallons.



If you let me know what size you are looking at (LxWxH) and what fitting you want (3" clean out, 1/2" drain etc.) I can quote you cost on a poly tank.
I'm probably going to pull my trailer up to your shop at some point when I get back. We can take a look at it then. One of your standard 19 gallon tanks might still be the easiest, and most trouble-free setup.

If I mount the water tank under the trailer, I'd have to get an electric pump, and IMO - that's just one more thing to fail. I really like that the AT tank has the manual pump.
 
Last edited:

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I'm probably going to pull my trailer up to your shop at some point when I get back. We can take a look at it then. One of your standard 19 gallon tanks might still be the easiest, and most trouble-free setup.

If I mount the water tank under the trailer, I'd have to get an electric pump, and IMO - that's just one more thing to fail. I really like that the AT tank has the manual pump.

We offer both the on chassis tank with mechanical pump, and the under chassis tank with electric pump. Below chassis requires a skid plate.
 

FlatlinesUp

Adventurer
I like to design stuff with "extra" capicity etc as well, but with a liquid tank, IMHO esp with a horizontal configuration, I'd think that having it half empty would add poor handling characteristics to the trailer, ie jerking round when the water moved fwd/side to side etc and possibly cause issue with that much weight moving around in the trailer.

If you are having one built like that, you might want to consider internal baffles if it's possible to build them into your design.
 

shogun

Adventurer
I must be confused about this water tank thing. I have been sitting back for months waiting for someone to mention the location issue.

One of the large benefits of going to a trailer is to remove weight from the vehicle by supporting it with another axle. The oft-violated rule of not exceeding the GVW rating.

Some of the items to be trailered are of fixed weight (and size). However, gas/fuel, and water are variable and also probably the densest item to carry. This is where I must be missing something; It seems to me that I would want to located the densest (heaviest) items directly over the axle (and also as low as possible). Other less-heavy items can be used to trim the cg if needed, thus avoiding a heavy tongue. Why would I put my heaviest item where it will load the tongue, to say nothing of its variable nature?

I have not found any factual discussion of tongue weight either. Rules of thumb, yes, but nothing that seemed based on engineering data. This may have some bearing on the issue, but still doesnt change the seemingly unadvisable practice of carrying water on the tongue.

What am I missing?
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
That's a good point. When I designed my trailer, the water tank is sitting on the floor between the frame rails, the floor is welded to the bottom of the frame, thus no skid plate is required. So it's as low as it can get and light weight. It's also central to the trailer so it doesn't slosh side to side. It is located 60/40 over the axle so that the CG of the trailer doesn't change as the tank is emptied.

The only issue is... and I question some of the reports on water usage... We went camping for 4 days, and I figure we used 10 gallons per day. And that's without showers. That's just 3 people drinking, cooking, and doing dishes. Now, we weren't conserving as if our lives depended on it but weren't being wasteful either... what am I missing? Dishes takes about 2 gallons by itself, 3 times a day, that's 6 gallons right there. We had a small typical dish pan, probably about 3 gallons, and we filled it half way. I'm starting to think we're going to need a second 19 gallon tank on the trailer.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,941
Messages
2,922,519
Members
233,156
Latest member
iStan814
Top