Wavephf's American Hilux build thread

J

JWP58

Guest
Straight ************. Too cool....I want one!!!

Thank you for sharing your build.
 
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Wavephf

Observer
I have a lot of stuff to finish on the truck still. I didn't want to go SAS but after trashing my idler arm in Moab I have reconsidered it. I will either order a wider front axle housing or have a stock one widened to match the rear. I already have another elocker for the front. I might reinstall my 4" ifs lift until I have the money to do the SAS.

I'm not sure how much can be done with a t100 but I did build a bumper for my dad's truck.
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Sent from my intergalactic space transmitter.
 
J

JWP58

Guest
Dang, you build some nice bumpers......how much for a 2001 Tacoma lol
 

Wavephf

Observer
I have 40-50 hours in each one so it would probably be more cost effective to buy a ARB or similar. I built the T100 bumper because ARB doesn't make one. TJM used to make a winch bumper but quit selling it "winch rated" because of bracket problems IIRC. I build my own because I'm too cheap to buy one. I have about $300 in materials my Hilux bumper.
 

NCtrail4R

Adventurer
Great work on the truck and nice work on that bumper, too!! Can you compare your impressions of the ST Maxx vs the Grabber AT2? Have been looking at the ST Maxx but want to be sure I"m making the right call. At the same time, it's tough to beat the pricing on the Grabber AT2 and they still get good reviews.
 
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overactor

Observer
I love the fab work! I would like something similar in an overland vehicle. a tad more back cab space, a shorter bobbed bed roof rack. Would leave room for a few fuel cans or an external fuel cell in the bed ( or large fuel cell under the bed) water, batteries, fridge, all the other cool stuff.

The main gripe I have with my tacoma is the storage space under and behind the back seats and with your custom built back section of cab the possibilities are endless
 

Wavephf

Observer
Can you compare your impressions of the ST Maxx vs the Grabber AT2?
I think I like the grabbers better but I don't think they offer a skinny tire above 32" and I don't enjoy floating over the slick stuff when I can get good traction a few inches down. When I was running the grabbers and got into slick mud, snow or loose dirt and couldn't crawl up it I could just break the tires loose to clear them out and then get better traction. The ST Maxx doesn't seem to clean out as good and the larger treads don't seem to grip as well. I was running E rated grabbers before and E rated ST Maxx now but the ST maxx seem a lot stiffer. Some of the issues I see with the tire may be because I no longer have the extra weight of the 4runner on the rear end.

I love the fab work! I would like something similar in an overland vehicle. a tad more back cab space, a shorter bobbed bed roof rack.
Thanks. There a few thing that are getting changed this winter when I have time to work on it again. I'm still thinking about 3link front end, aftermarket computer or remove the supercharger, double t-case and rearrange some stuff under the hood. I already have the URD fuel upgrade kit but there are still issues with the system. It doesn't seem to have barometric correction so if you program it at you home altitude and the go up in elevation it retards the timing too late and the computer enters knock retard, if you go down in elevation the urd computer retards timing before you even enter boost. Perhaps there is just something wrong with my unit but I haven't called Gadget yet to verify. I'm thinking a megasquirt kit like I put on my 1.8t dunebuggy, the new kits have alot more programmable inputs and outputs and knock control built in. They don't make a plug and play kit for the 5vzfe yet so I will have to make some changes to the MS3 PNP unit.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Wow, that is one awesome build!!! Congrats on a job well done.

If you go to an SAS there are a couple options for widening the track including using the IFS trucks current hubs and outer axle bits/brakes to widen it and keep the larger IFS 4Runner/V6 brakes. There is some turning and clearanceing you need to do with some parts and you have to read up on what rotors etc. to use in the process , but it's been done by a number of people and certainly doesn't require modifying the housing. Despite what the "Internet" will tell you, wheel spacers are not a bad thing either. I'm going to use FJ60 rotors with the V6 calipers and 1.5" wheel spacers and LOTS of guys who wheel their truck VERY hard (like Marlin of Marlin Crawler and bunch of others) have been running them problem free for years. Another option if you're thinking of going to a linked front end (I'd highly suggest looking into a radius arm set-up to ease engine/oil-pan clearance, hell you could even run a set of 80-series Axles to save on the fabbing of brackets/axle modification etc and get a wider track out the deal) then maybe look into a Diamond Axle housing ready to go and built to whatever width you want. You could even have them make it match a T100 housing width and get the added stability of a wider track overall. if you want to use a Mini-truck axle I'd highly suggest an 81 or newer unit because it'll make the widening/brake mods easier if you go down that road. YMMV, but if you need any info on the stuff I'm talking about just drop me a line/PM me cause I've been over this a million times in the last few moths trying to solidify my SFA build plans on my truck so I've got a LOT of research under my belt and links etc. that would be helpful to learn from and I'm always happy to share info with a fellow EP'r (or anyone really).

Again, LOVE the truck, it really does look like a "real Hilux" aye. (I recognize those other Canadian Hiluxes you were wheeling with too, small world) That is just plain impressive.

Cheers

Dave
 
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