Weldtec Design 2WD Bent I-Beam Lift for E350 (E series vans)
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ujoint
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Good question. If the axle is prepped and ready for install all of it could be done in 2 days with the right tools.
And sorry to the OP about the derailment!
Skinny
Active member
It boils down to what you want to do with it long term, budget, and what can be afforded at the moment. The arms are a waste regardless of money spent if you plan on going 4wd down the road. A SuperDuty axle is a waste if the OP never plans on converting down the line. Sure you can recoup costs by selling parts but that is another can of worms. What are the fab skills of the OP? Can you buy an axle, plug some new balljoints or bearings in it in preparation for install?
Sorry I haven't been posting much, work is interfering with my fun! 
No worries about the diversion... Not relevant to the title of the thread, but relevant to me and others, so lets continue.
Part of my problem is I don't know how long it may be before I could complete the conversion. It is also a huge increase in cost. Granted, the Ujoint kit is super high quality (and I wouldn't want to skimp anyways), but even without the axle, $3700. With a stage 1 axle and compensation for my RSC, we at about 10k. I could find a cheaper axle and do some of the rebuilding myself and save, but I don't think I have the space, resources or skills to do it all myself. I'm more set up for carpentry than automotive and I don't have much indoor space to work. I would whole heartedly go for a partial conversion if it was more in the 5k range, but for me I don't think I can do it in that price range (ie, not realistically able to do all the work myself). With the lift as a temporary measure, I'm gonna be wasting money on parts/labor that isn't transferable towards a conversion. And the sooner I do the conversion, the more that waste is gonna sting. However, I need new shocks now, anyways, so that's something I'm gonna buy anyways. The bent beams and labor are obviously 100% waste. Radius arms and spring? Maybe reusable? And all for under 2k. That would leave money for a locker/LSD and regearing to 4.10 for larger tires.
I'm hoping the result would be a better ride, both on road and on dirt/gravel and washboard. Better traction from larger tires, a little more ground clearance and a locker to help out as needed. Total price would be around 3500-4000, depending on traction device choice, shock choice and springs. But, probably close to 2500-3000 would be reusable in a conversion.
Please, let me know if I'm missing something or if you think I'm crazy. I love all the discussion. Thanks.
No worries about the diversion... Not relevant to the title of the thread, but relevant to me and others, so lets continue.
Part of my problem is I don't know how long it may be before I could complete the conversion. It is also a huge increase in cost. Granted, the Ujoint kit is super high quality (and I wouldn't want to skimp anyways), but even without the axle, $3700. With a stage 1 axle and compensation for my RSC, we at about 10k. I could find a cheaper axle and do some of the rebuilding myself and save, but I don't think I have the space, resources or skills to do it all myself. I'm more set up for carpentry than automotive and I don't have much indoor space to work. I would whole heartedly go for a partial conversion if it was more in the 5k range, but for me I don't think I can do it in that price range (ie, not realistically able to do all the work myself). With the lift as a temporary measure, I'm gonna be wasting money on parts/labor that isn't transferable towards a conversion. And the sooner I do the conversion, the more that waste is gonna sting. However, I need new shocks now, anyways, so that's something I'm gonna buy anyways. The bent beams and labor are obviously 100% waste. Radius arms and spring? Maybe reusable? And all for under 2k. That would leave money for a locker/LSD and regearing to 4.10 for larger tires.
I'm hoping the result would be a better ride, both on road and on dirt/gravel and washboard. Better traction from larger tires, a little more ground clearance and a locker to help out as needed. Total price would be around 3500-4000, depending on traction device choice, shock choice and springs. But, probably close to 2500-3000 would be reusable in a conversion.
Please, let me know if I'm missing something or if you think I'm crazy. I love all the discussion. Thanks.
Back to Weldtec Designs
I was gonna post after I checked out the shop, but work is interfering and it might be a bit.
I talked to the owner, Jeremy, a week ago. Seemed like a nice guy and answered a ton of questions for me. They do mostly race trucks and Trophy trucks. His DD is a lifted van that he did about 10 years ago. Same process he is offering with bent beams, Bilstein shocks and skyjacker coils. The beams are bent while on the van to help keep alignment as good as possible. in 10 years, he said he has never had a van with align-ability issues or problems with excessive tire wear. He does not use progressive coils, but can if you want. Said on his van he didn't need them. For the rear end, he had National Spring re-arc and adjust the leaf springs to lift the rear and soften the ride a bit. That's about 300 more. They can do custom leafs for about 700 if you want. Or you can do blocks, but he didn't recommend it. He also offers custom radius arms with heim joints. Pretty much, it sounds like the whole process is very customizable. How long it takes will depend on how long it takes to get the leafs re-arced, if I go that route. I'm gonna go down and check out his shop when I get a chance and probably drive his van to see how it does. I just need a bit of time. I'll post up what my impressions are.
Overall, to my novice brain, it sounds like a pretty reasonable setup, particularly for the price. Any thoughts?
Oh, and I forgot to ask about powder coating the radius arms... But I will!
I was gonna post after I checked out the shop, but work is interfering and it might be a bit.
I talked to the owner, Jeremy, a week ago. Seemed like a nice guy and answered a ton of questions for me. They do mostly race trucks and Trophy trucks. His DD is a lifted van that he did about 10 years ago. Same process he is offering with bent beams, Bilstein shocks and skyjacker coils. The beams are bent while on the van to help keep alignment as good as possible. in 10 years, he said he has never had a van with align-ability issues or problems with excessive tire wear. He does not use progressive coils, but can if you want. Said on his van he didn't need them. For the rear end, he had National Spring re-arc and adjust the leaf springs to lift the rear and soften the ride a bit. That's about 300 more. They can do custom leafs for about 700 if you want. Or you can do blocks, but he didn't recommend it. He also offers custom radius arms with heim joints. Pretty much, it sounds like the whole process is very customizable. How long it takes will depend on how long it takes to get the leafs re-arced, if I go that route. I'm gonna go down and check out his shop when I get a chance and probably drive his van to see how it does. I just need a bit of time. I'll post up what my impressions are.
Overall, to my novice brain, it sounds like a pretty reasonable setup, particularly for the price. Any thoughts?
Oh, and I forgot to ask about powder coating the radius arms... But I will!
So beams are bent while on the van, so do they have a van they use for this or do they want your van there?
If they want your van then anyone out of that area is kind of SOL it would seem.
I bought my first Ford van in 1978 and have always had one for road trips etc until the past 6 years. ( well except for a couple of years I had a Dodge 4WD van on 38s )
Now ready to build another one and want it lifted for sure but not sure how much I need 4 wheel drive since I have others toys for that.
If they want your van then anyone out of that area is kind of SOL it would seem.
I bought my first Ford van in 1978 and have always had one for road trips etc until the past 6 years. ( well except for a couple of years I had a Dodge 4WD van on 38s )
Now ready to build another one and want it lifted for sure but not sure how much I need 4 wheel drive since I have others toys for that.
Skinny
Active member
Personally if I were you I would get some sliders, a winch (maybe a multi mount so you don't have to commit to a full front bumper plus being able to move it out back has its advantages when wheeling by yourself), good set of rubber, and a rear traction diff. I think a TruTrac if you don't plan on going too far with the build or an ARB if you want something that you know is going to be completely locked up in an emergency. Both of those recommended since you probably will be on the street mostly I would assume. I'd also source a good set of chains. So a little extra traction with the diff and chains, some armor for the rockers when clearance runs low, and a winch for when your line goes wrong. All of those being something you can utilize down the road if you decide to go full 4wd. Makes the most sense to me.
Another thing I would recommend is buying a welder and some metal fab tools. Even though you are not set up to do the work, you will find that fabricating at any level will save you tons of expense and allows you to build exactly what you want at your own pace. You have to start somewhere and the welder is probably the best money spent unless you like writing checks and picking the van up done completed. Otherwise a set of sliders would be a great entry level project to tackle especially if you can get someone to assist you locally.
Another thing I would recommend is buying a welder and some metal fab tools. Even though you are not set up to do the work, you will find that fabricating at any level will save you tons of expense and allows you to build exactly what you want at your own pace. You have to start somewhere and the welder is probably the best money spent unless you like writing checks and picking the van up done completed. Otherwise a set of sliders would be a great entry level project to tackle especially if you can get someone to assist you locally.
@tommudd: its basically the same as Camburg... They need the van. I'm not sure if Jeremy could bend your beams and ship em back if you sent a set, but the shipping may not be worth it.
@mikracer: that's a good thought. Maybe some recommendations on springs, too. Sort of a RIP for 2wd
@skinny: that's kind of the direction I'm leaning. Truetrac was at the top of my list as the van will be driven on road the majority of the time. I'd like to talk to someone with one. I think it would be sufficient, but I was also considering ARB (with on onboard air option) or an E-Locker (cheaper and simpler than ARB). As far as fabing some sliders, that would be fun. A lot of my terrain out here is sand, so my recovery priorities were gonna be something like MaxTrax and hitch mountable winch (for the flexibility you mentioned and to avoid 3k in bumpers). I'm also prioritizing a portable vs onboard air option to facilitate airing down. Most of that would carry over to a full 4x4 conversion and be useful immediately, so I can get out and start playing.
@mikracer: that's a good thought. Maybe some recommendations on springs, too. Sort of a RIP for 2wd
@skinny: that's kind of the direction I'm leaning. Truetrac was at the top of my list as the van will be driven on road the majority of the time. I'd like to talk to someone with one. I think it would be sufficient, but I was also considering ARB (with on onboard air option) or an E-Locker (cheaper and simpler than ARB). As far as fabing some sliders, that would be fun. A lot of my terrain out here is sand, so my recovery priorities were gonna be something like MaxTrax and hitch mountable winch (for the flexibility you mentioned and to avoid 3k in bumpers). I'm also prioritizing a portable vs onboard air option to facilitate airing down. Most of that would carry over to a full 4x4 conversion and be useful immediately, so I can get out and start playing.
Skinny
Active member
I've wheeled with lots of traction diffs, the TruTrac is great as long as you aren't rock crawling or lifting tires in the air. Very streetable and I remember laying number 11's in the snow up long steep grade with no problem. One of the best diffs ever made for the money that doesn't wear out. They get a bad rap mostly from crawlers that think it will compete with a full locker.
Sliders are just great all around because it gives you a step, recovery point, hi lift point, and protects the body.
For air, a compressor is nice especially if you get a York mounted on the engine. Is it necessary...no. I've gone many years on a second hand cheapo CO2 tank with a plain jane regulator. Most places by me want to exchange tanks (which is great because it keeps you certified) so I don't have to worry about dropping off a high dollar shiny tank and pick it up days later. You don't need the high volume stuff. I think I built mine under $100 between tank, regulator, hose, and handle. A good investment would be mount if you go that route.
Just my opinion.
Sliders are just great all around because it gives you a step, recovery point, hi lift point, and protects the body.
For air, a compressor is nice especially if you get a York mounted on the engine. Is it necessary...no. I've gone many years on a second hand cheapo CO2 tank with a plain jane regulator. Most places by me want to exchange tanks (which is great because it keeps you certified) so I don't have to worry about dropping off a high dollar shiny tank and pick it up days later. You don't need the high volume stuff. I think I built mine under $100 between tank, regulator, hose, and handle. A good investment would be mount if you go that route.
Just my opinion.
Thanks Skinny. I'm definitely leaning towards the TruTrac... even more now. The van won't be rock crawling, at least not until its fully converted, at which point I can put a selectable locker up front if I need. As far as a compressor, I was thinking about a portable 12V that I could share between the van and my truck. I had an older HF POS that worked OK (but was only $20 from a friend and lasted 7 years - surprising!). I think I could find something decent for no too much $. I'll look into CO2, but I'm not sure if I want to hassle with the tank - knowing me I would forget to fill it and not realize until I need it Although, spare CO2 tank would be good to have as a backup for the kegarator!
Although, spare CO2 tank would be good to have as a backup for the kegarator!
Skinny
Active member
Since you have a newer rig and a van body I would think that another engine driven compressor for air is going to make things pretty tight under the hood.
With smaller tires and the fact that you want to use rails or maybe the chain thing, you probably don't have a huge demand for air. Different story when you are out crawling at 5 lbs. of air on 40's, that will require some major CFM. Bumping a set of 33's up a few pounds would probably go fine with a small electric unit. CO2 is cheap out of the gate but gets old IMO after awhile. Not bad if you are going to one trail for a day or weekend (and don't mind topping the tank every two or three trips) but if you are constantly on and off pavement its a bad idea. Plus you can't run air tools which may not be an issue if you are running an electric impact.
With smaller tires and the fact that you want to use rails or maybe the chain thing, you probably don't have a huge demand for air. Different story when you are out crawling at 5 lbs. of air on 40's, that will require some major CFM. Bumping a set of 33's up a few pounds would probably go fine with a small electric unit. CO2 is cheap out of the gate but gets old IMO after awhile. Not bad if you are going to one trail for a day or weekend (and don't mind topping the tank every two or three trips) but if you are constantly on and off pavement its a bad idea. Plus you can't run air tools which may not be an issue if you are running an electric impact.