What did I do and can I fix it

[Mosby]

Hi folks, just signed up and after searching i couldn't find a answer to my question. Well, we have a 2008 Palomino Bronco atop a 97 4x4 F250 Powerstroke and we probably take it places it shouldn't be at times. No real crazy rock hopping, just back country USFS roads in bad shape and uneven steep terrain. It is mounted directly to the frame Tork Lift tie downs w/standard turnbuckles tightened hand tight. I've read if you really tork them down you can wrap things, so I am careful not to over torque and only use my hand/arm strength.

Anyways, I just noticed the other day the gap between the door and frame is wider at the top than bottom. It is to the point where the aluminum weather strip is actually riding inside the frame when parked on a angle. There is definite wear/rub marks. Is this something that can be adjusted or do I just live with it. Kind of freaks me out cause the bugger was not inexpensive. I plan on a July 4th family trip down a old road we busted open to the creek and wondering if I should loosen up on the less traveled camper adventures.

Thanks,

 

[Bella PSD]

It’s possible that the frame of the camper could be twisted up. I was first thinking the door was rotted out causing the door to not fit. But then I re-read that it’s a 2008.

And Welcome!:smiley_drive:

 

[Mosby]

Top of Door-Picture

Thanks for the welcome I ran across this site about five months ago. I thought maybe the frame/ internal structure component, but I figured since it is hooked to the frame it wouldn't flex that much. When it is parked on a level surface it is OK. But my driveway is not level on any plane, nosedown and tilted to the left when viewing from rear. I also removed the electric jacks to cut down on weight and have less things hanging off the sides.

Than again, a RV tech I was talking with said in sort of jest, "these things are put together with spit and toothpicks". It's all mute because the warranty is up if it is the frame, and probably wouldn't cover it.

Here is a picture of the door;

 

[fisher205]

Get the Tork lift cushioned tie downs such as the spring loaded XL's . There is enough frame flex to tear apart your camper even with only moderate off roading. I am assuming the frame tie downs that you refer to are the ones that stick outside the box. These actually create more of a lever arm and amplify the twisting on your camper. The cushioned tie downs will help minimize this. Good luck - Brad

 

[Mosby]

Gotcha, the spring loaded XL kit. I'll check the tork lift website, and possibly talk with someone and order some. I sure hope they are sturdy, the roads around here can get narrow w/ encroaching brush and such.

What is unfortunate, I had ordered them with the tork lift system and a Rv tech told me I should be fine with just normal turnbuckles, since the camper is relatively light. I should have heeded by own thoughts.

If nothing else I am learning what not to do

 

[eugene]

There may not even be a frame to get twisted, from what I understand basic rv construction hasn't changed much so yours may be just plywood screwed to plywood like my old one. It may have just stripped out some of the screws.

 

[Mosby]

I was on another forum "Wander the West" and it seems there maybe a internal semi U frame which makes up the door frame. After noodling on this it seems the door frame is out of square, the only way I can think of checking is to measure the width at different points and see where it is tweaked. I need to figure out a remedy since it is causing the top 12 inches of the edge of the door to develop a sharp edge which cause a nasty cut. I am going to call the dealer/manufacturer on Monday.

Thanks for the help folks..
Mosby

 

[eugene]

Just took mine on a trip and it started doing the same thing halfway through, my door won't even latch its spread out so much.
I'm looking at rebuilding the rear wall now, it seems that its just 1x2's with staples joining them together, might do a solid sheet of plywood or weld up some subframe. I'm thinking since the plywood floor site up on about 1" tubing I could get a nice stiff 1/8" or 3/16" wall square tuve and bolt it right under the rear frame if the floor is bowing upware in the center, need to get a straightedge under to see.
I had issues with the fridge too, about hafway through my trip I couldn't seem to get it level enough to do anything.

 

[Mosby]

Mine doesn't seem to have gotten any worse, since I filed down the sharp edge. I am cautious about too much filing as I do want to open up a gap for water to enter. I did speak with the dealer the previous owner bought it from and he has seen them do the door won't close bit when it is off the truck, but not on the truck. I got the impression he really couldn't offer anymore advice so I thanked him for his time. Since it is out of warranty being the second owner we are on our own.

On a different note do you all keep the fridge exhaust/cooling fan on all the time, especially during the day? The previous owner had a manual fan switch put in. I've been told those fridges are the most expensive thing of all and I'd hate to burn it out. I am also trying to find out how to have the battery charging as I am going down the road. As it is I drag my generator along, which is one more thing to unload.

Good luck on your rebuild though. I will probably have to do it at one point in the future...

Mosby

 

[eugene]

My fridge doesn't have any vent fan. It seems the have died anyway, got warm on the way back and I plugged it in today and its not even started getting cold yet.

My battery is in the truck. I have a 1/2 ton and bought the second battery tray from the 3/4-1 ton diesel trucks and mounted it under the hood where it would be for the diesels. Then I made up a bracket near the underhood electrical center to mount the isolator. I then bought a small fuse block that holds a pair of the J case fuses like the ones in the factory electrical center, then I took the factory trailer charge wire out of the factory electrical center and to my fuse block off the second battery.The second fuse from that battery goes into a smaller block in the cab were I power my cb and power ports for the back seats for the kids stuff.
I just power the camper from the trailer charge wire, there isn't much electrical in my camper, just the fridge, furnace, lights and pump and they all work fine from that one 12v 30A circuit.