What did you do to your Expo Jeep today?

[Tight_wad]

New radiator and repaired ps line. Large branch came up between engine and radiator on my jku this past weekend.

 

[Mitch502]

Rewound winch line to make it nice and Purdy. Dropping the gas tank today to fix a leak

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

Wired in a dual power plug for my fridge and other stuff. Might swap one port with a dual USB port...TBD.



I wired it into my power distribution box I build in the rear for all my accessories.



Dometic CF-35 is fantastic back there. Keep an eye on power consumption with this.



Pretty basic, but it works.

 

[Beamer pilot]

Greg,
you mentioned on the NWR thread some problem with the XJ, fixed...???

 

[Kmrtnsn]

Week before last I had ARB AirLockers installed but a mix-up in the shipment of my diff covers delayed their installation so this weekend, armed with the correct color ARB covers, a set of Lube-Locker gaskets and a bushel basket full of Royal Purple lubricants I swapped out the covers, front and rear, drained and refilled the transfer case, and re-installed one of my skid plates. We're just about ready for Tahoe and the Rubicon at the end of the month.

 

[engineerd]

A week ago I went to move the Jeep off the street for trash day. The battery was dead, so I went to pop the hood to jump it and the hood release handle came off in my hand. A pair of vice grips on the release cable, a lot of pounding, and nothing worked. Then I finally got it open and found out why nothing was working...

Broken Hood Latch by Dustin May, on Flickr

So I got it jump started and moved to the driveway where I'll install some hoodpins and start fixing some of its other issues. No big camping trip this year, which is good. She's been neglected lately and needs some TLC.

 

[comptiger5000]

Swapped in the new front shocks last week, put a bunch of pavement-pounding miles on it over the weekend and then discovered that the lockup clutch in my torque converter is dying. I guess I'll add that to the fix-it list. Hopefully I'll get the old front shocks swapped into the rear at some point this week and adjust the rear spring setup a little, then the suspension should be good for a while until I feel like buying more shiny parts.

 

[mmaattppoo]

Fixed the fuel spitting problem when refueling my 2010 JKU by replacing the fuel filling tube (Mopar Part #CNNNX321AC)...first fill up after the repair and no fuel spill.

Original part.

Replacement part (bottom of image) with new check valve.

Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk

 

[redthies]

Fixed the fuel spitting problem when refueling my 2010 JKU by replacing the fuel filling tube (Mopar Part #CNNNX321AC)...first fill up after the repair and no fuel spill.


Original part.

Replacement part (bottom of image) with new check valve.

Was that done as a recall? Sounds like it should have been. I don't remember my '11 ever "spitting" fuel, or leaking during fill ups.

 

[swift7777]

Was that done as a recall? Sounds like it should have been. I don't remember my '11 ever "spitting" fuel, or leaking during fill ups.

My 11 did it for a while, especially in the winter - for myself I've found its more to do with the angle of the nozzle when filling.

 

[SilicaRich]

Changed oil and decided to reseat my rack ladder to find an un-welcomed surprise Should have done a better job when I installed the ladder before.

Touch up paint is now on order

 

[mmaattppoo]

Was that done as a recall? Sounds like it should have been. I don't remember my '11 ever "spitting" fuel, or leaking during fill ups.

No but it really should have been. Apparently service bulletin (#14-003-12) and the associated warranty extension only applies to 2007-2008 JKs. Considering the fact that the same issue affects 2009, 2010, and possibly 2011 JKs I'm not sure why Fiat/Chrysler didn't extend this bulletin to include any other model years exhibiting the same problem...other than to continue the typical money grabbing BS they are so well known for.

Rather than the hassel of going to the dealership I and pleading my case I made this $50 repair myself. I have yet to take my JK into the dealership for anything other than recalls. I do all my own maintenance.

Reading around various forums and watching a few YouTube videos seems to point to a faulty check/flapper valve inside the fuel tank. Apparently the original fix by dealerships was to replace the entire fuel tank. The current fix is to install the bodge fuel tube with a valve external to the tank.

I bought my JK in 2010 with 35 km on the ODO and have had no serious issues (other than the seemingly all too common oil consumotion issue) for the past 76,000 km. The fuel spill/spitting issue started at 75,000 km. I though I was in the clear but no such luck. At least the fix is relatively quick and easy.

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[mmaattppoo]

My 11 did it for a while, especially in the winter - for myself I've found its more to do with the angle of the nozzle when filling.

During fill ups I tried changing the angle of the filler, slowing the fuel flow as I neared a full tank, and using different gas pumps all with no luck.

Slowing the fuel flow as the tank neared capacity seemed to provide the best results but not every time. There was still a fairly consistent spit back even when feathering the last few litres of fuel. Replacing the fuel filler tube seems to be a permanent fix to the problem.

I though I lucked out and avoided this problem given most JKs seem to experience this issue well before 6 years has elapsed.

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[twiisted71]

So is this stuff almost like POR-15 without actually painting the Jeep, more like spraying a WD-40 on steroids on everything?

Ok so I really like the idea of a protected and shiny undercarriage but the OCD side of me (yes I am diagnosed) is concerned about dust and dirt sticking sticking to the film. What if any experience do you have with that. Please and Thankyou.

Fluid film is great stuff, but it does remain tacky and doesn't wash off easily. If I lived in a place with high salt content in the air or where they salt the roads I 'might' consider using it as an undercoating on suspension parts.
The problem is it makes working around it messy and aggravating. Personally, I prefer to just paint everything with a heavy coat of black Rustoleum spray paint. Easily touched up, gives good protection, and can be removed with a couple swipes of a wire brush if you need to clean the threads off a bolt.
One place I do recommend Fluid Film usage is on electrical components, especially buss bars, battery terminals, and distribution blocks. The FF will seal everything and essentially stop corrosion in its tracks. It can also stop moisture from wicking into wiring, so if you like to try to teach your 4x4 to swim it can go along way in preventing electrical gremlins post dunking. It is non conductive however so DO NOT spray inside distributor cap!!!

I use it on my saltwater boats: liberally spraying it under the cowling of outboards, on hydraulic trim/tilt/steering rams, backside of fuse panels, battery terminals, coat tops of metal underfloor fuel tanks, and on any accessible electrical connection for lights, comms, and switches.

 

[Lucky j]

I will have to look again, cause I like FF for what it is, but I do not really comsider it that good for rust protection when exppose to road spray all the time, bit I have never seen that it was consider dielectic. Maybe I should read it again.

What I use for dielectric is super lub silicone spray and tube. The spray is also very good for steel winch line to protect from corrosion.

Fluid film is great stuff, but it does remain tacky and doesn't wash off easily. If I lived in a place with high salt content in the air or where they salt the roads I 'might' consider using it as an undercoating on suspension parts.
The problem is it makes working around it messy and aggravating. Personally, I prefer to just paint everything with a heavy coat of black Rustoleum spray paint. Easily touched up, gives good protection, and can be removed with a couple swipes of a wire brush if you need to clean the threads off a bolt.
One place I do recommend Fluid Film usage is on electrical components, especially buss bars, battery terminals, and distribution blocks. The FF will seal everything and essentially stop corrosion in its tracks. It can also stop moisture from wicking into wiring, so if you like to try to teach your 4x4 to swim it can go along way in preventing electrical gremlins post dunking. It is non conductive however so DO NOT spray inside distributor cap!!!

I use it on my saltwater boats: liberally spraying it under the cowling of outboards, on hydraulic trim/tilt/steering rams, backside of fuse panels, battery terminals, coat tops of metal underfloor fuel tanks, and on any accessible electrical connection for lights, comms, and switches.