What did you do to your Expo Jeep today?

[jeepdreamer]

Hollow nuts suck. I bought a bearer 91xj in Germany. Spent two solid days dealing with a nut that went FUBAR. Cost me 2days, a handful of drill bits, a wheel, and some of my sanity.

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[unkamonkey]

I don't know a lot but I did tires for years. I wandered over to my neighbors house and his son is sitting in the driveway fighting to get the chrome cap out of the impact socket from his F350. I tried to be nice as I'm laughing inside. "you remove that cap first Daniel"

 

[Lucky j]

Interesting. I have a '95 XJ and it had all solid lug nuts when I bought it. They could have been changed though ... I would have! (lol). My '03 TJ had a mix. I bought some new ones from the dealership a few years ago and they weren't cheap - $10 CDN each! McGards at Canadian Tire are about $28 CDN for a pack of 4 nuts.

Cant T are not the cheapest place to find wheel nut. Try a car parts store. Mthey should be about 2$ can a piece. And solid.

 

[Beamer pilot]

All news to me after many years of Jeeps...thanks guys, I'll double check from now on.

 

[Jerry Ward]

Replaced the oil pressure sending unit in my 2014 JKU. Boy, they really tucked it down in there!!

 

[Modeler]

Replaced the driver's side seat belt receptacle and rearranged my ham antenna wiring. Tomorrow the hardtop goes back on and the tires get rebalanced, at least one had all the weights rubbed off last weekend in Berlin, NH.

 

[Captain Texas]

Finally got to installing my AEV fuel caddy. Love it!

 

[PCO6]

Cant T are not the cheapest place to find wheel nut. Try a car parts store. Mthey should be about 2$ can a piece. And solid.

I rechecked what I paid and it was $28 for 8 (not 4) wheel nuts. Just Jeeps is about the same. NAPA (Dorman) is only about $0.10 less per nut. They actually have caps for about twice the price - not sure why.

 

[Lucky j]

I rechecked what I paid and it was $28 for 8 (not 4) wheel nuts. Just Jeeps is about the same. NAPA (Dorman) is only about $0.10 less per nut. They actually have caps for about twice the price - not sure why.

While reading your reply, I just remembered that I pay garage price at my local napa. Also make take the price lower than what You got. But at least, they were a bit cheaper that what you tough when you were thinking 4 instead of 8.

 

[Happy Joe]

Got a set of male impact torx "sockets"/drivers to remove those stupid torx bolts.
Removed the aftermarket trailer hitch.
Mocked up a pair of Suburban tow hooks on the Tj (better departure angle/ground clearance & much cheaper than JK rear hooks as rear tow points; need to fabricate some 1/2 inch spacers to make bumper clearance).

Enjoy!

 

[Modeler]

Hard top went on, tires got rebalanced, diagnosed that the lower steering shaft u-joint is worn out, and that one of the unit bearings needs to be replaced (will probably do both and keep one as a spare).

 

[ExploringJeeps]

made some room

I created a bracket to support the 40% side of the rear seat. It is patterned off the Goose Gear one, but I just eyeballed it and figured it out one dimension at a time. I used 1/4inch thick 2X2 angle iron, cut it to shape and then bent it to the right angle to match the floor, drilled a few holes and that was it. Now we have a fully functional 3 seat Jeep. Getting rid of the 60% gives us so much more room. It was a fun project, I normally don't do a lot of projects with steel.

 

[Mitch502]

I've had my adjustable control arms soaking in a ATF and acetone mix for about 3 weeks... Hopefully they come apart easily in a couple of days when I go to take them apart... They were seized up pretty bad...

 

[Bullseye240]

I've had my adjustable control arms soaking in a ATF and acetone mix for about 3 weeks... Hopefully they come apart easily in a couple of days when I go to take them apart... They were seized up pretty bad...

When you do get them apart I highly recommend using anti-seize compound upon reassembly. I used to do truck alignments and repair and every part I ever removed or replaced from tie rod adjusting sleeves to suspension bolts/alignment links, in short everything was coated with as much as I could get in there. It really helps when it comes time to disassembles time it makes a huge difference. I have though about getting some motorcycle shock/fork accordion sleeves to cover the joints on mine. You can find them on amazon for some surprisingly affordable prices.

 

[Mitch502]

When you do get them apart I highly recommend using anti-seize compound upon reassembly. I used to do truck alignments and repair and every part I ever removed or replaced from tie rod adjusting sleeves to suspension bolts/alignment links, in short everything was coated with as much as I could get in there. It really helps when it comes time to disassembles time it makes a huge difference. I have though about getting some motorcycle shock/fork accordion sleeves to cover the joints on mine. You can find them on amazon for some surprisingly affordable prices.

I had a shop do the alignment and they didn't put any on for some reason...it kinda made me a little upset, for this reason. I always use anti-seize on everything that is going to eventually come back apart, and doesn't require loc-tite.

The shock boots is an interesting thought also...I plan to anti-seize the interal section HEAVILY, and then paint the threads on the exposed control arm to hopefully prevent too much rust.