What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?

nckwltn

Explorer
Finally changed out my crank bolt, as well as finished up my DIY rack.

Photo before I painted the wind deflector: https://goo.gl/photos/hDoSCerrkoJ8C9xe6

Photo installed: https://goo.gl/photos/1F7UH8SdKN86GGek9

All in I have about $200 in it. 75 for the rack, 35 on extra aluminum bar to stiffen it up and help expand the width. The feet are from Garvin, the 7" rise versions @ ~$25 each. If I was going to do it again, I'd spring for something that would cover the entire roof and not just the back 2/3rds...

it's plenty sturdy, I can stand on it and bounce... it does flex a little, but not enough to make be concerned with an actual load up there.
 

Red_Diamonds

Observer
well, determined my Monty has an oil leak. Understanding that the 6g72 and 6g74 are know for the rear camshaft leak but they looked fine. I can detect the leak to be coming from above the alternator. I would assume it would be the front camshaft seal which will need to be replaced with timing belt which is due. I have decided to park the Monty until I can take care of that as it goes through 1-2 quarts of oil every 500 miles. I have noticed it doesn't leak nearly as much when not running.
 

BOPOH

Explorer
I can detect the leak to be coming from above the alternator. I would assume it would be the front camshaft seal which will need to be replaced with timing belt which is due.

If it's coming from above the alternator that's probably just valve cover gasket, if camshaft seal leaks the oil comes out way lower
 

brad2274

Adventurer
well, determined my Monty has an oil leak. Understanding that the 6g72 and 6g74 are know for the rear camshaft leak but they looked fine. I can detect the leak to be coming from above the alternator. I would assume it would be the front camshaft seal which will need to be replaced with timing belt which is due. I have decided to park the Monty until I can take care of that as it goes through 1-2 quarts of oil every 500 miles. I have noticed it doesn't leak nearly as much when not running.
i just did my timing belt and had oil on the alternator and nearby areas, turned out to be the passenger cam seal. valve cover gaskets might be seeping a lil but there was a good amount getting thrown around from that cam seal.
 

BOPOH

Explorer
i just did my timing belt and had oil on the alternator and nearby areas, turned out to be the passenger cam seal. valve cover gaskets might be seeping a lil but there was a good amount getting thrown around from that cam seal.

you don't have cam gear covers?
 

bikerjosh

Explorer
A few days ago, but finished my aux trans cooler, fan, AC fan replacement and blue sea fuse box install. Now I have an on demand switch for AC fan to cool the car when going slow off road and another for a separate 7" fan that feeds the new trans and oil coolers.
Back to working on my template for a trans skid plate. :sombrero:
 

Pilsung

New member
Replaced the alternator on my Gen 2.5

It took half the day, because I'd never done this job before, but I got it right (I think). Had the battery and A/T lights on intermittently for a couple of weeks. In-dash volt meter showing 14.4 sometimes, 12 at other times. Looking good so far. Got the alarm going off when I re-connected the battery, but quickly found the key-to-on-push-orange-alarm-button instructions on the web.

Last weekend I started with Quick Fists: a pair to replace the back door handle for a shovel, and an single huge one on the front of the driver's seat frame for a fire extinguisher. Also mounted a MagLite on the back of the center console.
 

cacattack

Observer
Installed new yellow top optima battery and fixed a noise

Installed new yellow top optima battery and fixed the annoying noise coming from my mufflers heat shield.
 

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Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
I made a set of 4 mud flaps and installed them today. I've wanted to for a while and this last trip to Montana provided some additional incentive with lots of sharp gravel being thrown up from the tires. I wanted them longish and very flexible, similar to what European rallye cars use.

My locally-owned, amazing hardware store (which has pretty much anything anyone needs) has rolls of 1/4 inch neoprene that seem perfect for this application: heavy, tough & flexible. Since my Gen III has had all the plastic cladding & trim removed and serious bobs done to the bumpers, it required some fiddling.

When I did that trim project I covered the lower bits in Monstaliner (covered elsewhere in my build thread), and had to reconfigure the metal hardware that supports the inner fender liners, cutting and welding these pieces to a new curve that doesn't hang down below the truck. In the rear I tied into these supports but added stiffeners to them. This is the left rear, showing the previously-reconfigured metal support with a new stiffener tying it to the body...
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...and here's the right rear, with a new support tying it to the metal guard under the rear HVAC unit:
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The fronts don't have supports that wide, so I fabbed up metal sheets that sandwich the rubber flap and support it on the inboard end. Here's a view looking down at this arrangement from inside the driver's side front wheel well:
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And here's the final result (on the passenger side):
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Gibby92

New member
Replaced the aftermarket rims with the factory wheels and some 265/75/r16 General Grabber at2's. Tires are about the noise level I suspected, not too bad, but the ride is really nice. The old wheels/tires wore the front side of the wheel well a little loose so I will have to try to pull it back just a little bit as the new tires rub on the driver's side.IMG_20150926_224202833.jpg
 

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