What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?

[viducce]

Finally got the Lokka installed but haven't got chance to try it out yet
And a couple of other things like new cv boots....

 

[TheMole]

Replaced front UCAs and shock mount brackets on the LCAs. I've tolerated some bad clunking on the front and discovered that the stock bolts connecting the shock absorbers to the LCAs were smaller (possibly due to metric/standard measurement mismatch) than the eyelets on the brackets and shock. I actually had to drill a hole through the bottom of the driver side LCA to drill out a sheared bolt attaching the bracket. The LCA still seems to be structurally sound but I plan to replace it eventually anyway.

Felt any difference after replacing the UCAs?

 

[Schitzangiggles]

So walking out to my Gen3 after getting supplies for a 7200 mile road trip, I see a puddle under it. No big deal, I had the AC on.
I get home to start doing a transmission fluid change and notice there is coolant dripping from both sides of the transmission. ******?! There isn't a cooling line anywhere near the leak...
So now I am kinda freaking out.
I put the tranny fluid swap on hold while I investigate the source.

A little back story, I decided to let the local highschool work on it because they asked if they could and I figured why not I remember autoshop class and loved working on unique vehicles.

Big mistake as I am down a vehicle now.
The couldn't get ANY of the bolts on the intake torqued correctly and stripped out 23, yes, 23 stripped out bolts I am now a master Helicoil installer. I have coolant leaking INTO #3 cylinder, out the back standpipe, from the back of the water pump. and every other place there is an O ring because some one glooped in RTV to compensate for having gouged every o ring in the cooling sysytem.:violent-smiley-031:

So after stripping down the engine to the heads, I don't have time to fix it before my trip so I am putting everything back together so I can deal with it when I get back.
Super bummed out but thank goodness it basically came apart in my driveway and not in the middle of BFE. Boy howdy is there a lot of little things wrong with this thing. Typical 145,000 miles of deferred maintenance from the previous owner. Was looking forward to enjoying my creature comforts, new tires and OME 2" lift...

Now I pivot to getting my Jeep Montangler (half Montero, half Wrangler:smiley_drive to 100% for the journey instead.

 

[BOPOH]

Replaced radiator, while doing that i noticed that exhaust header shield rusted where bolts were holding and fell off - reinstalled it with big washers. While getting to exhaust i noticed that it sucked some muddy water through intake but still running fine, at least it wasn't a rock this time. Today/tomorrow planning on replacing steering pump

This was my radiator - notice it's a back side the one facing the engine, i didn't take picture of the front of it but you can imagine how much mud is in it - im surprised it never overheated

 

[KyleT]

Got a list of stuff going for my 2003.
So far I need an alignment, at least front tires, front cam seal is leaking I think, 4wd flashes the CDL orange when put into anything but 2H, and the drivers lumbar is stuck about 3/4 "inflated" making it not so comfy. Oh and need the little plastic inserts for the license plate bracket on the back AND my wife already warped the rotors I think....

Ordered bushings for the trans cradle to help with the 2200rpm vibration. Didn't order the actual cradle mount because it was not cheap. So we'll see. All in all it is not too bad. Has way more power than my 2006 does.


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[All-Terrain]

1 week ago - On my '99 Montero, replaced the 150k-mile factory shocks with new KYB Monomax's. The old ones were totally toast and put up no resistance at all to being compressed by hand. The Monomax's are rock solid by comparison. Front's were a pain. Rear's, easy.

Today - '06 Montero, replaced the almost-toast front brake pads with new ceramic pads. Easiest brake pad job ever. Summary - Jack up front wheel, remove wheel, remove two 17mm bolts, pull caliper off, squeeze pistons in, swap new pads in, put caliper back on, put two 17mm bolts back on, reinstall wheel and put the truck back on the ground. So easy a caveman could do it.

 

[TheMole]

1 week ago - On my '99 Montero, replaced the 150k-mile factory shocks with new KYB Monomax's. The old ones were totally toast and put up no resistance at all to being compressed by hand. The Monomax's are rock solid by comparison. Front's were a pain. Rear's, easy.

Today - '06 Montero, replaced the almost-toast front brake pads with new ceramic pads. Easiest brake pad job ever. Summary - Jack up front wheel, remove wheel, remove two 17mm bolts, pull caliper off, squeeze pistons in, swap new pads in, put caliper back on, put two 17mm bolts back on, reinstall wheel and put the truck back on the ground. So easy a caveman could do it.

My shocks were the same when I replaced them with Monomax's as well. At first I thought they were too stiff and thought about swapping them out for something softer, but I don't think I can give up how well the car can corner at speeds now.

 

[nckwltn]

Got a list of stuff going for my 2003.
So far I need an alignment, at least front tires, front cam seal is leaking I think, 4wd flashes the CDL orange when put into anything but 2H, and the drivers lumbar is stuck about 3/4 "inflated" making it not so comfy. Oh and need the little plastic inserts for the license plate bracket on the back AND my wife already warped the rotors I think....

Ordered bushings for the trans cradle to help with the 2200rpm vibration. Didn't order the actual cradle mount because it was not cheap. So we'll see. All in all it is not too bad. Has way more power than my 2006 does.


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I just swapped out the free wheel solenoids and that fixed my center diff flashing light issue. There is a test you can do on the solenoids to verify if they are working.

I also have the 2200 vibration, I did a tranny fluid flush and that helped a great deal. I ended up putting a clear hose onto the tube going from the tranny cooler into a bucket, and put another hose into several quarts of tranny fluid.... out with the old, in with the new. Was able to tell when fluid changed color because I was using a clear tube.

 

[bikerjosh]

I just swapped out the free wheel solenoids and that fixed my center diff flashing light issue. There is a test you can do on the solenoids to verify if they are working.

I also have the 2200 vibration, I did a tranny fluid flush and that helped a great deal. I ended up putting a clear hose onto the tube going from the tranny cooler into a bucket, and put another hose into several quarts of tranny fluid.... out with the old, in with the new. Was able to tell when fluid changed color because I was using a clear tube.

Thanks for the idea Nick. Need to do the transmission fluid swap. Did the free wheel solenoids when I was replacing the transfer case lever.

 

[nckwltn]

Thanks for the idea Nick. Need to do the transmission fluid swap. Did the free wheel solenoids when I was replacing the transfer case lever.

Google around for the procedure. There are some videos out there. If I recall correctly, I did drain the tranny and refill before going to the cooler lines. But that just took care of what was in the pan.

 

[RyanY]

1 week ago - On my '99 Montero, replaced the 150k-mile factory shocks with new KYB Monomax's. The old ones were totally toast and put up no resistance at all to being compressed by hand. The Monomax's are rock solid by comparison. Front's were a pain. Rear's, easy.

Today - '06 Montero, replaced the almost-toast front brake pads with new ceramic pads. Easiest brake pad job ever. Summary - Jack up front wheel, remove wheel, remove two 17mm bolts, pull caliper off, squeeze pistons in, swap new pads in, put caliper back on, put two 17mm bolts back on, reinstall wheel and put the truck back on the ground. So easy a caveman could do it.

You do realize that without resurfacing your brake rotors you will reduce the braking ability of your new pads? New brake pads need to have a fresh surface to bed in to - the process involves the new brake pads depositing a thin layer of pad material on the rotor itself which increases the friction considerably - very similar to why drag racers do a burnout before their run which deposits a thin layer of rubber on the road surface.

Do yourself a favor and get your brake rotors resurfaced so your pads will function properly.

 

[Oso]

Gen 2 rear end with an ARB locker swapped into my Gen 1. 1.5" suspension lift, Gen 2 coils and trailing arms also swapped. New rubber bushings installed throughout. Gen 2 torsion bars installed as well. Technically this was done last weekend.

 

[KyleT]

You do realize that without resurfacing your brake rotors you will reduce the braking ability of your new pads? New brake pads need to have a fresh surface to bed in to - the process involves the new brake pads depositing a thin layer of pad material on the rotor itself which increases the friction considerably - very similar to why drag racers do a burnout before their run which deposits a thin layer of rubber on the road surface.

Do yourself a favor and get your brake rotors resurfaced so your pads will function properly.

Not an issue. Most deposited are bad and occur when you have high brake temps like a race car or fast street car. Even on range rovers that are heavy and a lot of power I rarely saw buildup. Plus the rotors usually judder when that happens.

Second, the main reason for a burnout so to heat the tires, secondary is to clean them and lastly is to deposit rubber to make the track more tacky.

I've changed pads only a lot of times (when the rotors are still true and don't feel warped) and never suffered from any braking issues.

 

[RyanY]

All the manufacturers of high performance brake pads have specific bedding-in procedures for their new pads that require new or resurfaced rotors. I'm pretty certain that they wouldn't waste their time recommending that if it didn't make a difference. Have you ever done a measured braking test on your vehicle to compare stopping distances with bedded pads on a fresh surface vs. non-bedded pads on an old rotor surface? I'm willing to bet the brake pad manufacturers have done quite a few of them, which is why the procedure is recommended.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Motorsport_Pad_FAQ.pdf

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-new-rotors/

http://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

http://www.pfcbrakes.com.au/techtips.php?pageId=18

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...ions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in

 

[KyleT]

We aren't talking about high performance vehicles or brake pads here we are talking slow trucks which the newest one is more than 10 yrs old now. Most high performance vehicles you can't resurface/turn the rotors due to the thickness being worn down as they are designed to be replaced with the pads.


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