The FSM has a very good diagnostic procedure for testing alt output but you need a DC current meter to run the test. Also have you considered a bad battery as a possibility? Also, try running a volt meter on the cig lighter to double check your dash meter while underway. What other symptoms do you have other than the gauge dropping? Fan bogging? Lights dimming?
What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?
- Thread starter Nebel
- Start date
PaydayGabe
Active member
Thanks for your reply Sal,,
No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.
I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.
The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts.
Cheers
, G.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.
I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.
The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts. Cheers
, G. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
PaydayGabe
Active member
Thanks for your reply Sal,,
No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.
I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.
The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts.
Cheers, G.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.
I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.
The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts. Cheers
, G. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Inyo_man
Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
No worries...Hey Inyo, good job with the fluids. Give us an update on the suspension service (bushes).
What model Montero are you working on?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
, good job with the fluids. Give us an update on the suspension service (bushes).The bushing refresh project is on hold at the moment while I give the VW Vanagon's rear brakes a rebuild (drums), new shoes up front, and flush the system. Only issue is, I'm buggered after work, so it's a weekend job if everything goes well. It didn't...one new brake cylinder had a bad seal. So ordered a new one, but didn't get it until the next day...The bad Centric part that was made in China. The new Centric part is made in Italy. The Italian part looks identical to the OEM part! The Centric part made in China works, but is not nearly as stout.
The Montero is an '02 (in signature). It has over 230k on it and running strong.
Cheers.
Thanks for your reply Sal,,
No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.
I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.
The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
Cheers
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
I’m talking amperage......you need a clamp style DC amp meter to run the current test.
PaydayGabe
Active member
Oops,, mistaken..
I don't have that function..
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
I don't have that function..
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
PaydayGabe
Active member
I seriously doubt it original.
Although I have been wrong before
.
I'm gonna have Alt and Batt
tested before I start tossing $$$.
Although this is a hassle, w/ older under maintained vehicles,, an extended shake down test period seems essential of course.
Thankfully we made it home safely instead of a failure in the bush.
Just part of the process
.
What is your current battery mfg and overall option??
Thanks for your replies,
have a great weekend. G.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Although I have been wrong before
. I'm gonna have Alt and Batt
tested before I start tossing $$$.
Although this is a hassle, w/ older under maintained vehicles,, an extended shake down test period seems essential of course.
Thankfully we made it home safely instead of a failure in the bush.
Just part of the process
.What is your current battery mfg and overall option??
Thanks for your replies,
have a great weekend. G.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
PaydayGabe
Active member
That was exactly as I expected.
.
Battery is fine under load,
Alternator is at 14+ volts at idle.
Naturally the anomaly ( fluctuating voltage) only happens when running HOT.
Thankfully the test was free.
So,,, moving on. Rrr.
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.Battery is fine under load,
Alternator is at 14+ volts at idle.
Naturally the anomaly ( fluctuating voltage) only happens when running HOT.
Thankfully the test was free.
So,,, moving on
. Rrr.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
PaydayGabe
Active member
UPDATE::
The situation with my Alternator was inconclusive.
Same symptoms.
Bite the bullet, ordered a new 200amp upgrade from eagleautoelectric.com
(on ebay) in Northridge Ca.
$179+ tx, plus 3 new belts at $44.
The unit number is 13615-HO- 200Amp Alternator w/ 1yr warranty.
Installed and operating as it should.
Plenty of extra juice for potential accessories in the future.
Hopefully this will outlast me.
Next will be a Battery upgrade.
"You gotta pay to play"
Have a great weekend. Cheers, G.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
The situation with my Alternator was inconclusive.
Same symptoms
.Bite the bullet, ordered a new 200amp upgrade from eagleautoelectric.com
(on ebay) in Northridge Ca.
$179+ tx, plus 3 new belts at $44.
The unit number is 13615-HO- 200Amp Alternator w/ 1yr warranty.
Installed and operating as it should.
Plenty of extra juice for potential accessories in the future.
Hopefully this will outlast me.
Next will be a Battery upgrade.
"You gotta pay to play"
Have a great weekend. Cheers
, G. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Inyo_man
Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Glad to hear you are sorting things out!
Currently I'm running a DieHard Platinum (marine deep cell/starter) group 34, AGM, 850 cca, 135 rc. It has an additional set of posts to hook up a compressor etc.
With Sears going out of business, I doubt these are available any more.
I'm curious why you decided to go with this company...
Why not Denso (OEM)?
Cheers
Currently I'm running a DieHard Platinum (marine deep cell/starter) group 34, AGM, 850 cca, 135 rc. It has an additional set of posts to hook up a compressor etc.
With Sears going out of business, I doubt these are available any more.
I'm curious why you decided to go with this company...
Why not Denso (OEM)?
Cheers
PaydayGabe
Active member
Recommendation from a member on Mitsubishi Montero USA group on Facebook w/ good results.
I emailed them multiple times with questions and my requirements. They were very accommodating.
Price was reasonable also.
$179+tx. Time will tell.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
I emailed them multiple times with questions and my requirements. They were very accommodating.
Price was reasonable also.
$179+tx. Time will tell.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
PaydayGabe
Active member
Copy that,, and a basic unit is 85amp. Sooo. Yup.
Plenty of room for extra goodies.
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Plenty of room for extra goodies.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
normal_dave
waytoomuchwritinginposts.
It would appear based on your top end work and timing belt job, that this issue is already resolved but note that on the 3.5L in the Sport, the passenger front cam seal is notorious for dripping right onto the top of the alternator, and slowly taking it out. Very difficult to see the issue as it magically escapes the timing cover and heads straight for the alternator.UPDATE::
The situation with my Alternator was inconclusive.
Same symptoms
Bite the bullet, ordered a new 200amp upgrade from eagleautoelectric.com
(on ebay) in Northridge Ca.
$179+ tx, plus 3 new belts at $44.
The unit number is 13615-HO- 200Amp Alternator w/ 1yr warranty.
Installed and operating as it should.
Plenty of extra juice for potential accessories in the future.
Hopefully this will outlast me.
Next will be a Battery upgrade.
"You gotta pay to play"
Have a great weekend. Cheers
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
About the only telltale is the buildup of oil on the bottom of the alternator, and the eventual charge warning light or discharged battery. I finally discovered it/read about it here on OEM alternator replacement #2 on my wife's '03 Sport Limited. It could likely have been your alternator got an oil dose from the previous owner before you did your top end job, and hopefully good to go now with the new one.