What multi axis hitch do you prefer?

[Borrego60]

Kinda looks like this thread was well covered,I thank everyone for the information, aot of things covered some I had thought about and alot more I did not.

 

[richard cabesa]

Question for the Max coupler guys. I'm in the process of designing my trailer frame and need a couple of diamensions to determine lenght and height of the draw bar.

Please excuse the crappie drawing, but I think you'll get what I'm after.

1: The lenght from the pin hole in the trailers receiver to the standard ball location

2: The difference in height between the pin hole and the standard ball location.

3: One I don't have marked on the drawing but I guess I need to know is the distance from the pin hole to the end of the TRAILERS receiver tube

Thanks in advance guys

 

[wanderer]

First let me state I have 2 days experience with a Tag axle trailer, and years with a 5th wheel. A Jacknife is when there is contact, 90deg is just a turn in a parking lot(my definition). Ok If I understand this correctly with the L&R, Treg and Max they All bind-up before 90deg. The Max seems the best on the Consumer market, but shouldn't you be able to turn past 75deg without causing damage? Is this something to do with the Tag Axel design?
And can we see some video of the Max Under Load?

 

[BIGdaddy]

Finally, the photo...

nice shot, artistically, and having only used a ball mount style connector, I have to say that I prefer beef, beefy and strong, when talking about trailers, potential energy, inertia, and big things.

I think if the military used a pintle to pull big things, over rough stuff, through war zones, getting shot at, that its good enough for me.

Maybe I'd disagree after a long mojave road trip pulling a trailer, but then again, I might still be content with having a trouble free ride, though a bit noisy. Plus I'm assuming a pintle setup is very cost effective. Thats a big factor for our family.

We don't sacrifice cost for safety, but when two things are both considered safe, we'll likely choose the cheaper of the two.

 

[ntsqd]

Dave, There is a somewhat consistent if not a standard distance for the pin hole to 'mouth' (insertion end) of the receiver tube. Measuring my 5 samples I got 2.5" thrice, one @ 2-5/16", and one @ 2.25"

Where the ball hole is relative to the pin hole is likely much more variable depending on the amount of drop and the mfg's production needs. My "flat" slider (ball hole plate welded directly to the bottom of the tube & with no bend(s) in it) has a distance of 9.25", but my ~2" drop slider has a pin hole to ball hole distance of 11.5"

If you can get down to Ventura during business hours (assuming no such similar business in SB) then swing by Bill's Trailer Hitch. They have all sorts of sliders and receiver sockets out where you can look at and measure them. Plus a bunch more stuff useful to trailers.

HTH

 

[richard cabesa]

I guess my drawing was too crappie.

Thom

I've got several to measure on the truck receiver end around here.

I'm loooking for the lenght from the ball mount to the receiver pin on the trailer end of the Max coupler. And the height difference from center line of coupler to ball mount


Thanks for the heads up on Bills. Our local trailer supply when belly up a couple of years ago.

 

[REasley]

Richard

The center to center is 10". However, your 5/8 receiver pin hole should be industry standard 2 1/2" from the end of the receiver. The reason is that pesky grease zerk on the Max. If you locate the hole too far back, you won't get the pin in. I hope this is what you were looking for.

 

[ntsqd]

:doh1:
You did say trailer end, but it didn't register what it was that you were after.

EDIT: From REasley's pic I'll venture that the vertical offset is the same as with a ball coupler. They've deliberately added height between the bottom plate and the OD of the bushed eyelet that wouldn't serve any other reason.

 

[richard cabesa]

REasley, thanks.

That is one of the numbers I'm looking for. Your pic helps with the other. It looks like about 2" offset in the up/down direction

Back out to the drawing board . . .

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Sorta off topic regarding the Treg hitch. That thing is a houshold commodity in Australia! It seemed 90% of the trailers I saw from light duty to full blown offroad caravan trailers had the Tregg. I was shocked to see the trailer on our airport shuttle equipped with a Treg hitch. Still can't get over how many of them I saw.

 

[atavuss]

the original 1940's Fulton hitch on my 1/4 ton Bantam was worn and would not tighten properly making for a noisy tow. I ordered a Max Coupler from AT and finally got around to fabbing a mount for the trailer out of a 12" long 2" reciever blank. have not towed with it yet. I am using M416 safety chains. the original Fulton ball hitch is to the right on the ground

 

[jbs]

I have a Max Coupler, and on a recent trip I had to re-torque the bolt 3 times over the course of 6 weeks because it kept loosening. Once it was loose enough that I didn't feel comfortable driving and had to leave the trailer and drive into Ouray (I was part way up Imogene Pass) to tighten it (I don't carry two 1 1/2" sockets). The first two times I used the top end of the specified torque range (100 ft-lbs). The last time I used 150 ft-lbs, and it appears to be loosening again.

Has anyone else had this problem? I am considering just getting a regular split lock washer/nut and tack welding it to the bolt after torquing. Good idea? Other suggestions? As you can see from the design, of this bolt lets go, not good!

 

[gabepari]

I have a Max Coupler, and on a recent trip I had to re-torque the bolt 3 times over the course of 6 weeks because it kept loosening. Once it was loose enough that I didn't feel comfortable driving and had to leave the trailer and drive into Ouray (I was part way up Imogene Pass) to tighten it (I don't carry two 1 1/2" sockets). The first two times I used the top end of the specified torque range (100 ft-lbs). The last time I used 150 ft-lbs, and it appears to be loosening again.

Has anyone else had this problem? I am considering just getting a regular split lock washer/nut and tack welding it to the bolt after torquing. Good idea? Other suggestions? As you can see from the design, of this bolt lets go, not good!

Hmmm, I would call Martyn or Mario, if you haven't already. I've logged close to 2000 miles on the Max Coupler and I have never had to adjust or fiddle with the bolt.

Gabe

 

[Martyn]

I have a Max Coupler, and on a recent trip I had to re-torque the bolt 3 times over the course of 6 weeks because it kept loosening. Once it was loose enough that I didn't feel comfortable driving and had to leave the trailer and drive into Ouray (I was part way up Imogene Pass) to tighten it (I don't carry two 1 1/2" sockets). The first two times I used the top end of the specified torque range (100 ft-lbs). The last time I used 150 ft-lbs, and it appears to be loosening again.

Has anyone else had this problem? I am considering just getting a regular split lock washer/nut and tack welding it to the bolt after torquing. Good idea? Other suggestions? As you can see from the design, of this bolt lets go, not good!

Very unusual.

I have over 7000 miles on mine without it loosening up at all.

Sound like the nylock isn't holding, it may be defective and needs replacing.

I'll talk to the manufacturer and get answers for you. Call me on Monday and we'll have a solution.

For 1 1/2 wrenches go to Harbor Freight and pick one up they are less than $7.00

 

[Hilldweller]

My nylock was incredibly tight; I'm going to tow with it for the first time today.
I also used some red threadlock.

Had you removed the nylock nut previously?