What Off Road Vehicle For Me?

[Box Rocket]

I think you should be looking at either a 2001-2002 Toyota Tacoma, or a 1993-1997 Toyota LandCruiser FZJ80. They both fit your requirements for the most part. I can see an XJ working pretty well too, but if it were me I'd take either of the Toyotas first.

 

[Bogo]

I'd look hard at a 3rd gen 4runner with the 3.4 V6. Very reliable, can be found with factory rear locker, 5spd are somewhat rare but an option if that matters to you, pretty easily modified with a huge aftermarket support. Just be careful if you are back east the frame is totally rusted on my 97 and the rear suspension literally ripped of the frame this month.

All the salt and ice melting chemicals they use in the north east are cruel to vehicles. I have a perfectly running '95 2nd gen 4runner that spent most of it's life in southern New Hampshire, but it's frame is going 100 flakes at a time. Pick them up from the south west or places where they don't use salt on the roads.

Also consider the 2nd generation 4runners. They have a smaller interior than later ones, but will still fit 4 people if a bit cramped. The 2nd generation are lower powered than later ones, but have higher gas mileage, and the engines are highly reliable. Even the V6 3.0 everybody likes to dis. Regulatory changes forced new non asbestos head gaskets on them and the initial ones failed, but the replacements last fine. There was a recall on them. First generation 4runners were 2 door so the rear seats are hard to get into, but being a lighter vehicle they get better gas mileage. Some 2nd generation 4runners are two door, but they are rare. Stay away from the turbo powered first generation ones as the turbo likes to go. The 4 cylinder 22RE engine is easy to work on and rarely breaks. The 3.0 V6 is shoehorned into the engine compartment so it can be a pain to work on. People curse that, but thankfully it rarely needs work. All 4x4 ones have a high low transfer case. Low range easily eats up the rugged miles even when heavily loaded. The fender wells will fit most 32" tires without modification and no lift. Mild lifts allow 33" to 35" tires. 35" tires require a bit of foot well bashing and flattening a seam. Snorkel kits are available or can be home made. If you get one, resist the temptation to switch to Dana 35, and 40 axles as they are much weaker than the stock Toyota ones. The stock IFS is very rugged, but if you are going to be running at high speeds over rough roads, add an IFS brace to the frame. They bolt on between the rear IFS attachments points. They are only really needed for crazies doing 45+ on rough bumpy roads or technical rock crawling with large tires.

The changes I'd make to a stock 2nd gen 4runner. OME springs, torsion bars, and shocks in front and rear. 1" ball joint spacers in front, and 1.5" lift (from OME medium springs, and cranking torsion bars). Slightly longer lateral control rod on the rear suspension. 16x7 wheels and 245x75r16 load range E KM2 tires. If needed regear differentials to suit tires. Add ARB air lockers to front and rear differentials. ARB bull bar front bumper for the field rats (deer). 2nd battery with isolator for refrigerator**. Small inverter to power laptops, battery chargers, etc.. Rear bumper with pintle hitch. Off road trailer, like the surplus military ones, for extra gear, fuel and supplies when what I need along won't fit in the 4runner. I'd change its hubs to have the same lug diameter and number as the 4runner uses, and use the same wheels and tires on it. That gives me two more spares for emergencies. Pair of Lightforce 170 HID driving lights with wide/far lenses.

** I'm tempted to put on a 2nd alternator in place of the air conditioner compressor and have it charge the 2nd battery. The second alternator and battery would be a totally separate system from the stock system. I'd also change the air conditioner compressor out for a 12VDC powered one.

 

[Frankspinz]

Nissan Xterra 2000-2004, plenty cheap on the used market. Good reliability, plenty of info on many online forums ...

 

[Martinjmpr]

The 2nd generation are lower powered than later ones, but have higher gas mileage, and the engines are highly reliable.

I've never heard that 2nd gens get better MPG than 3rd gens. In fact, usually I hear people with 2nd gens or 89-94 pickups with the 3.0 complaining that they have no power AND their MPG sucks.

What kind of MPG are you getting? And is this with a manual or automatic? I could imagine a 2nd gen with a manual getting better MPG than a 3rd gen with an automatic, but that's sort of an apples/oranges comparison.

A 2nd gen with a 22re and 5 speed would probably deliver decent MPG in the 20+ range. Slow as molasses compared to the newer ones but I never had any problems driving my 85 Toyota pickup or my dad's 88 4runner, and both were 22r/5 speed combos.

 

[eric1115]

I love my '85 FJ60. Built super stout, great character, lots of fun and very capable, but some of your requirements (like safety and highway comfort) make me steer you toward an 80 series or a Tacoma instead.

A 4-door Taco with a shell would be a decent option; room for 4 and put a sleeping platform in the bed. Comfy highway, airbags, and plenty capable offroad.

An FZJ80 would return a little lower fuel economy, but you're driving a street legal tank. Great protection, safety, good highway comfort, very good offroad performance, and plenty of gear-hauling capability. A solid-but-not-immaculate 80, plus the maintenance you'll likely want to do right off the bat like front axle/knuckle service, R&R the e-lockers, fluid change, etc. should fit in your price range pretty easily. Less pep than the Taco on-road, but that's a trade-off I'm more than willing to make (see the part about me loving my 60).

Parts for the Cruiser will probably be more expensive than the Taco, but you shouldn't need to buy a ton of parts for either one. Both are very solid vehicles that will give you a few hundred thousand miles of good use. Neither are rocket science to work on, but if I had to pay a mechanic to do my wrenching for me I'd rather drop off a Tacoma than a Cruiser to get worked on. I'm comfortable turning my own wrenches, and with a FSM and the 'Mud boards, there's not much I'm not willing to tackle myself.

Eric

 

[scrubber3]

I know I may be chiming in a bit late, take a look at the Mitsubishi section and read up on the 2nd generation Monteros. I got my 95 for 1500 dollars. Ive spent in total around 3 grand and I have a vehicle capable of your entire list and then some. The SR trim comes with a factory air locker. Just ask any Aussie what vehicle they'd choose for an outback expo and they will tell you a "Pajero" which is what they are called down under. Considering that the Montero has "owned" the Dakar Rally since they started it, I'd say it speaks for itself. Just a humble suggestion. Personally, I wouldn't even consider anything else for an expedition vehicle. Maybe a LR Defender or a G Wagon, but I don't want to have to sell a kidney to get one. Just keep in mind I am just a bit biased. :elkgrin:

 

[craig333]

Nothing fits your specifications. You need to decide what is most important to give up. Hint, that'll change as you age.

 

[red87]

Montero has my vote as well. My 96 is significantly better than my 87 Toyota pickup in every single way. The Montero is stock except for 33x10.5 BFG ATs and a HAM radio. The truck had OME leafs, shocks, and steering damper; an Aussie locker, and I regeared it to handle the 265/75-16s it had. It still wasn't as capable off road, was obviously much slower on road and had worse ride quality than the Monty. I'm not bashing the old Toyota here; I really did enjoy owning that one its just that the Monteros are (in my opinion) a much better choice for the kind of use this site is about. Aftermarket is little but you can get OME and Ironman suspension, ARB bumpers and you can regear with the ring and pinion from other models. They've got the Super Select transfer case which gives you an AWD option in addition to the normal transfer case options and there is an air locker available, like scrubber said. The front seats also fold flat by design so you could sleep up there. Luckily for used car buyers, they are not well known here in the US and are very cheap as a result.

 

[zukrider]

94-96 montero SR. has a factory rear locker with 9.5" ring gear that is reliable up to 37" tires. the front is also good to go for 37's open. it will fit 33's stock, 35's with a 2" body lift. the BL will allow a gas tank relocation for more ground clearance. worst mileage i got was 15 all in city with a/c on. best was all highway and partial a/c at 21.

also, they have heated leather seats, a big sunroof, heated sideview mirrors, and a 3 way adjustable shock system. the auto trans has a power mode for pulling hills and towing, and a snow mode to lock out 1st gear.

they are a very reliable, powerful, comfortable, easy on the wallet truck. worth a look id say.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/2585656085.html

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/2581044741.html

http://ventura.craigslist.org/ctd/2588080052.html

good luck in your endeavers!

 

[KeZu]

You really should give Isuzu's a look. Rodeo or Trooper would work for most of what you need. Relatively safe, and very cheap. I can't think of anything comparable that you can get late model and with low miles for the price you can get an Isuzu.

 

[roving]

Range Rover p38

1999-2002

 

[Doctor W]

Not a Montero!!!!.......Think Jeep!

. Just ask any Aussie what vehicle they'd choose for an outback expo and they will tell you a "Pajero" which is what they are called down under. Considering that the Montero has "owned" the Dakar Rally since they started it, I'd say it speaks for itself. Just a humble suggestion. Personally, I wouldn't even consider anything else for an expedition vehicle. Maybe a LR Defender or a G Wagon, but I don't want to have to sell a kidney to get one. Just keep in mind I am just a bit biased. :elkgrin:

Aa hem... I'm IN Australia and the Montero/Pajero are NOT very highly regarded at all!!!!!.......apart from the joke that the Japanese called them "Pajero" here because they thought nobody spoke Spanish in Oz......that's why they are sold as "Montero"'s in Europe and the Americas. Actually "pajero" is formal Spanish for a "young colt", but in colloquial Spanish it equates to what Australians call "wanker" , both metaphorically and in actual real description. The vehicles that they ran in the Dakar were a fibreglass shell that looked like a Montero, but was in reality far removed from it.

Anyway, the point is that they're NOT a good choice. Why?......cos front IFS torsion bar or coil is difficult and expensive to lift.....the I4 2.6 wears out VERY quickly and is underpowered, V6's SOHC 3.0L & DOHC 3.5L are all alloy don't like to overheat and are VERY expensive to work on and repair and buy parts for, especially the DOHC V6 3.5L.....the auto transmission is VERY expensive to repair......the electronic Transfer case is incredibly complex and expensive to fix......and so it goes on....

I honestly think you're best off with a Jeep XJ Cherokee or what I have, a Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee. The ZJ are a bit roomier, 4 coil instead of leaves at rear (handle/ride better, easier/simpler to lift), 4 wheel discs, ABS (a plus on road, not good off road -so I put an inline switch in the power lead out of main powerbox supplying power to ABS system), dual air bags, 4.0L I6 gives good torque and OK fuel consumption, is as long lasting and reliable as an anvil, 318/5.2L or 360/5.9L V8's are also good (but use a bit more fuel for more torque but really crowd the engine bay up!). ZJ Limiteds have ultra comfy 12 way power, heated leather seats, a good basic Electronic Vehicle Information Centre (that reads in about 10 languages!) that tells you compass heading, outside temp, instant fuel consumption, average fuel consumption, miles before empty, coolant+ washer+ oil levels,cental locking and door/trunk ajar warnings etc etc, extra 12V power outlets front and back. Good simple constant 4WD system (good for grip on all surfaces on road or off road without having to choose ahead!) that uses a variable viscous coupling in H and fully locked in L. Rear diff is LSD but can easily be swapped for an auto locker or ARB Air Locker - but you're best swapping to stronger or larger axles shafts (cheap to do - $320). Good sized 136A alternator and compuer controlled charging system that can be safely used with AGM batteries - a 75A/H AGM fits in battery tray.

I had an XJ for about a year before I thought, ""Ummmm, good idea, but there's better".....so I got a ZJ!

By keeping all your upgrades reasonable, e.g. a 2" lift, 31", tires you end up with a very capable expedition rig at very reasonable low cost.

The Defender is also a good choice, but not a good vehicle to drive on roads and in traffic - too truck-like!, doesn't handle well, not much in way of safety equipment and not very comfortable.

I've had a LR Discovery 2 3.9 V8 (expensive for parts and gear - and not a lot of it, and very fuel hungry!), a Range Rover P38a 4.6 HSE (ultra comfortable but uses way too much fuel!!!!, and way too complex and unable to be fixed except by RR specialists), a Jeep XJ 4.0L and my present LR Series 2A and Jeep ZJ and like my present two best out of those.

 

[revrok]

XJ or ZJ or WJ are great options.

 

[scrubber3]

"""Anyway, the point is that they're NOT a good choice. Why?......cos front IFS torsion bar or coil is difficult and expensive to lift.....the I4 2.6 wears out VERY quickly and is underpowered, V6's SOHC 3.0L & DOHC 3.5L are all alloy don't like to overheat and are VERY expensive to work on and repair and buy parts for, especially the DOHC V6 3.5L.....the auto transmission is VERY expensive to repair......the electronic Transfer case is incredibly complex and expensive to fix......and so it goes on...."""


Okay, I knew a flamer would start up.. BOOOOOO!!!!!

Anyway I did say 2nd generation Montero which does not have an electronic transfer case. Most expo vehicles aren't lifted all that much and with a simple torsion bar crank you can get 2 inches or more which will allow most to get 35 inch tires under them. I don't think this guy is looking to crush cars or anything. Rear has coil springs. I know many 3.0 and 3.5 engines with well over 200,000 miles on them. I personally don't know of any engine that likes to overheat. The transmissions are nearly bulletproof and Ive never heard of a cheap transmission job. Not trying to bash the jeeps but after being an automotive tech for 7 years, I personally will never own a Chrysler product.... But I'm not here to bash anyone for their response to this curious gentleman's question. I am sure that jeeps are better build quality than an average Dodge since most are "trail rated".

BTW the Montero has extra outlets front and rear, selectable 4wd with locking center differential in 4hi lock and 4lo lock as well as just 4hi which is equivalent to what most would call full time fwd or AWD . The drivetrain as in axles and the like are like the transmission and pretty much great in stock form and will not need to be switched out.

Anyhow, the best way anyone can find what's right for their needs is to research and test drive/ see one in person. Hopefully he will be able to determine what meets his needs so he can get out there and have some fun. Wish you the best sir.

 

[Doctor W]

Okay, I knew a flamer would start up.. BOOOOOO!!!!!

Most expo vehicles aren't lifted all that much and with a simple torsion bar crank you can get 2 inches or more which will allow most to get 35 inch tires under them. I don't think this guy is looking to crush cars or anything. Rear has coil springs. I know many 3.0 and 3.5 engines with well over 200,000 miles on them. I personally don't know of any engine that likes to overheat. BTW the Montero has extra outlets front and rear, selectable 4wd with locking center differential in 4hi lock and 4lo lock as well as just 4hi which is equivalent to what most would call full time fwd or AWD . The drivetrain as in axles and the like are like the transmission and pretty much great in stock form and will not need to be switched out.

Anyhow, the best way anyone can find what's right for their needs is to research and test drive/ see one in person. Hopefully he will be able to determine what meets his needs so he can get out there and have some fun. Wish you the best sir.

If you mean winding up the torsion bars 2", then you end up with no available downward movement in the suspension, the ride is hard as hell and you can easily snap the torsion bars on rough ground as well as throwing wheel alignment out the window, ball joints are beyond their design range of movements....etc,etc
If you fit a new crank end or anchor, you still have the problem of the ball joints being at very bad angles and failing or wearing out very quickly. You can fit top spacers and a new longer upper wishbone arm, but that's not a cheap lift. Fitting up something good like a Calmini IFS lift is about $3000 for parts alone plus labour.

You're right in that no engines like to overheat, but alloy ones often warp their heads and sometimes the block too and some alloys permanently change their hardness and durability after overheating to make them utterly worthless for other than scrap.

I totally agree with your last paragraph - one needs to assess one's own needs, likes, dislikes, finances, abilities and so much more and then guided by all those and aesthetics and some extra-sensory feelings make one's own choice and live to enjoy or regret the end decision - if it's wrong then you've at least learnt things and can make another choice and so on........