where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF
- Thread starter where_the_heffalump_roams
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Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
Thats a bummer about the ZD install. 
Im glad its working now, hope you are able to get the heater up and running. A lot of complex systems melded togather. Sounds like your knocking things out little by little.
Im glad its working now, hope you are able to get the heater up and running. A lot of complex systems melded togather. Sounds like your knocking things out little by little.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
Thats a bummer about the ZD install.
Im glad its working now, hope you are able to get the heater up and running. A lot of complex systems melded togather. Sounds like your knocking things out little by little.
I’m actually happy with the ZD install and a functional A/C system!
I went back the auto electrical shop. We reviewed the pins and got things moved around.
The rebuilt webasto is now firing up, the fuel pump working, and warm exhaust is noted. But after 5 minutes it is powering off. Same as the old unit and I’m back to square one.
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Joe917
Explorer
Silly question but what is the t-stat set at? it could be shutting down because the t stat is not demanding heat.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
Not silly at all.
The habitat temps at the time were 24c. After the system was reset, the temp was set the max at 35c.
I found it odd that the newly installed rebuilt unit is behaving the same as the old unit. The only think I can think of is coolant levels? I’m sure I’ve topped them off. But I’m going to take another look once the engine cools down from the drive. I know I did spill some when the old unit was pulled despite using hose clamps.
I’m currently in Yuba City, CA. I’d really be open to going to a truck shop that knows these units in/out.
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Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
Air in the coolant lines?
Does it run for the same amount of time prior to shtting off? Like a sensor is bad so the board is shutting it off as a safety?
Joe917
Explorer
The best way to fill it is through the cap in the top of the bathroom radiator (the highest point in the system). One of those long thin funnels fits in there perfectly. You can bleed air from the top of the main habitat radiator at the same time.
If you drive with the engine loop open the radiators should heat up, that would show there is no airlock. You can then feel how high the bathroom towel bar heats. Usually the top 3 or so bars have air. No matter how many times I filled or bled it always seemed to stabilize like that.
If you drive with the engine loop open the radiators should heat up, that would show there is no airlock. You can then feel how high the bathroom towel bar heats. Usually the top 3 or so bars have air. No matter how many times I filled or bled it always seemed to stabilize like that.
Joe917
Explorer
On another note the fix around the air con looks good. I always thought that was a spot for the lithiums! I bet that wiper issue I chased for ever was in the stalk the whole time! The ring around the stove was the only option I had as well apart from changing the counter top, I really wish I had eliminated the propane when I did the counter. The Heffalump is in good hands.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
Thanks for the pro tip! Did you run the engine with the tops of both habitat radiators open?
I did loose a bit of coolant when I pulled the heater. I topped it off using about 5ish liters. Opened all the valves and ran the truck. I was going to let the temps cool down and recheck. Topping it off in the bathroom will be much easier.
Regarding the battery placement. Heated batteries have become an option and battle bornes were placed in the old battery trays. I may add some batteries in from the the a/c condenser someday
Right now my big obstacles are the heat system and obtaining a new parabolic leaf spring so I can get this aligned.
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where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
The driver side leaf spring did break and was replaced using your old spare last year. You can see the middle one snapped in this pic. I found that after some truck drivers told me I was crab walking.
I thought the crab walking was done, but I got pulled over by another trucker who told me I was crab walking last month. I took the truck in for an alignment at Johns Spring and Suspension repair a couple of weeks ago in Reno, NV. The shop guys were pretty cool and told the axel was getting pushed back because the left rear leaf spring pack was 2" too long and was even causing being/wear at the mount points. However they did not have access to parabolic springs.
Pictured below are the spares you gave me and the one to the right is what was used to replace the drivers side. I still have the old set minus a piece from the broken spring. I didn't take measurements of the springs, but in looking at it and while looking at this pick. It looks like only the bottom spring is tapered and the others are standard leaf springs. If that is the case. Can't the incorrect springs be replaced with the correct length one using standard springs?
And thanks or the coolant fill tip. I didn't know of the engine needed to be on while filling it up to remove possible air pockets.
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