[YEAR 7!] Quit our jobs, sold our home, gone riding...

theburtseoni

Observer
Electronics make me nervous, they are wonderful when they work, but when they don't you feel helpless. Maby it's time to trade for an old Depner with a sidecar? Fewer tires to go bad, simple fix-it solutions etc. But with the amount of luggage you folks carry, you might have to add a trailer behind the Depner sidecar special? The mental image I get from that is funny:)
 
So true. Sometimes lo-tech is better tech, especially when you're out in the middle of nowhere. Those Royal Enfields we had in India made me feel like a star mechanic!
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/117.html on October 9th, 2013

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Costa Rica is expensive!

We left Granada and headed south to the border, stopping overnight in Liberia where we stayed at an AirBnB. The owner was quite knowledgeable about all things Costa Rican and told us that the country has successfully marketed itself to foreigners as a safe tourist destination; lots of expats bringing retirement money into the country, as well as skilled professionals moving to CR, and with them came the US chains chasing this new demographic. Unfortunately, for most of the locals, their wages stayed the same and they are suffering the high cost of living.

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Windmill Alley on the Pan American

Tamarindo is a great beach-side town on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Beautiful sandy beaches and lots of tourists flocking to the surf lessons and snorkel tours. We stayed a couple of days here just to relax a bit and soak up the sun. It's still raining a little bit in the afternoons, and we're finding that it's difficult to predict when the precipitation will come as we travel to different regions and the Central American winter season starts to taper off.

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Waves make fantastic shapes on the sand at Tamarindo

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Watching the world go by

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Neda said we needed more beefcake shots in the blog. The best I could manage was a bit of cheesecake...

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"...enjoys long walks on the beach as well as blasting through muddy single-trail on a dirtbike..."

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And here's the beefcake: Fabio emerges out of the forest luring women onto his stable of horses.

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Tamarindo is a popular place for tourists

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Dog waits patiently for his master to return from surfing

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"Sale" in Costa Rican Spanish means mark it up 100% and then discount it 50%...

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Surf lessons done for the day

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Paddleboarding into the sunset

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Sunset on the Pacific Ocean

We say goodbye to the beach and we're heading back to the interior of Costa Rica to explore a bit more.

Rainy ride!
 

Rowie

New member
I've driven (not ridden, sadly) many of the spots you showed in Costa Rica - lots of fun. I've also stayed at Tamarindo - it was beautiful (if a bit touristy).

But it's hot rain or shine - does your rain gear breathe or is it pretty much a mobile sauna?

All the best!
 
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Wainiha

Explorer
Beefcake, cheesecake, Fabio, funny stuff. You are good at this forum/blog stuff.

Enjoys long walks on the beach....dirtbikes....You have got the right women.

I have a friend down there. But we would need discuss his "style/occupation" in PM if you wanted a connection. Nothing illegal just, um....well..

Stay safe and have fun, Wainiha.
 
does your rain gear breathe or is it pretty much a mobile sauna?

Mobile sauna. We're pretty much drenched in sweat by the time we get the sausage suits off. I sometimes wonder whether we'd be dryer just leaving them off and riding in the pouring rain! :)

I have a friend down there. But we would need discuss his "style/occupation" in PM if you wanted a connection. Nothing illegal just, um....well..

Ha! I already have my hands full, but thanks! ;)
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/118.html on October 12th, 2013

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After a couple of days at the beach, we are doubling back towards Liberia and then heading towards one of Costa Rica's most popular attractions: the Arenal volcano. The Guanacaste province that we are currently riding through is the driest part of CR. I guess everything is relative because it's still rainy season and we're still encountering daily afternoon showers. :(

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Bridge helps break up the monotony of a stretch of the monotonous Pan-American

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The road and scenery get more interesting once we hop onto the road to Arenal

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When road of life throws you a curve, just lean into it

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Stopping for lunch to admire the scenery

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Rding around Lake Arenal up ahead. It's an artificial lake made by the Arenal dam for hydroelectric power!

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Passing through Nuevo Arenal. This town was relocated when the lake was expanded in 1979.

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And then, oops...!

Neda had the whole route planned for the day. It was supposed to be a 250km day so we left pretty late in the morning hoping to arrive at the town of La Fortuna, just outside the Arenal Volcano, by early afternoon. Unfortunately, only 30 kms away from our destination, we found the way closed due to a cave-in and construction vehicles were on the scene rebuilding the road. There was a dirt road to our left and it looked like we could have detoured around the roadblock, but this guy told us two people just died in a landslide in that area earlier.

Because that was quite the opposite of what we wanted to do, we turned back to Nuevo Arenal and stopped for the night as the rainclouds were rolling in for the day.

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I found us some cheap accommodations in Nuevo Arenal! $20!

We love it when we find a good place for a great price. This hotel was actually a restaurant with a few rooms attached to it, and we sat out on the patio with a couple of cervezas on the main strip watching most of the population of Nuevo Arenal walk by us.

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Trivia: Neda has a sticker of the Indian deity Ganesh on her bike from our ride up the Indian Himalayas.
Ganesh is known as the "remover of obstacles". We'll see how well he does tomorrow...


The next morning we asked a guy in town how to get to La Fortuna. He tells us to go back the way we came from and that there should be no construction. So we take his word, ride back 20kms and see the exact same construction site. We forgot the golden rule of asking for directions in Latin America: ask at least three people and if more than one person gives you the same answer, that must be the right one...

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So we're doubling back and instead of waiting for the construction to end, we're going to take the long way around, looping all the way north to Upala, around the Tenorio Volcano to arrive from the other side of Fortuna. It's a 250km long detour and most of it was in the rain. But at least there were no landslides.

From our experiences in India and now in Costa Rica, I think Ganesh means "detour around obstacles"...

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Rainy season puddles

We arrive in La Fortuna without incident and plan our next day's activities. There are tons of things to do around here - all the brochures were advertising zip-lining, biking, rafting, tubing, horses. We settled on the most budget-appropriate activity: hiking up the volcano. Neda's favorite activity! Mine... not so much.

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Arenal is too steep to climb, so we're hiking up Cerro Chatto, just to the South-East. From there, there is a small lake in the crater that we can swim in and get some good views of Arenal

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First part of the hike is fairly flat and easy-going. We pass by some older hikers who had to take a break. Haha. Old people...

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Neda finds a great natural parasol

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About 45 minutes into the hike the trail gets muddier and steeper. While we stop to catch our breath, some college kids pass us.
I thought I heard one of them mutter "Old people", and then laugh...


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We get to the top and had to wait a while for the clouds to part to see Arenal

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Arenal

Once we got to the rim of Cerro Chato, it was a very short hike down the steep jungle-covered crater walls into the green lagoon of the caldera below. Because the crater was larger than I thought. It didn't really feel like you were inside a dormant volcano, but it was still a great refreshing dip after a couple hours of hot and humid strenuous hiking!

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Swimming in the rim of the Cerro Chato crater
 

joeyabisa

Adventurer
Nice!! It looks like you were at the Arenal with good weather. When I was there to surf in Tamarindo, myself and a few friends hired a driver to take us to Arenal for a couple of days. Some locals we spoke with told us we were lucky to have no cloud cover because that evening we saw red hot rocks tumble down the volcano. It was wonderful sitting there drinking our Imperial beers and watching in awe.
 
Costa Rica looks like Hawaii.

You know it's funny, we said the same thing to each other as we were riding and hiking around!

Some locals we spoke with told us we were lucky to have no cloud cover because that evening we saw red hot rocks tumble down the volcano.

Yes, you were very lucky! We have yet to see any lava and we've been hanging out in geologically active areas for the last year and a half now hoping to do so! :)
 
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/119.html on October 16th, 2013

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We originally started keeping a blog of all our motorcycle travels a few years ago because we didn't want to forget all of the cool places we visited and the fantastic things we've seen. When we shared it on the Internet, we got a lot of positive feedback and encouragement, but amazingly, we also received invitations from all over the world for warm meals and a place to sleep whilst on our travels. The kindness and the hospitality we've experienced was and still is overwhelming!

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Riding around the suburbs of San Jose

A few months ago, Yanil emailed us and told us that if we were ever in Costa Rica, he would love to have us stay with him and his family. So we decided to take him up on his offer!

But right after my reply, he emailed me back and told me he had to ask his wife for permission first. LOL!

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Pulling into Yanil and Evelyn's driveway

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Weary travelers at the doorstep!

In the end we got the nod of approval. Yanil, his wife Evelyn and his young son Evan, met us at a restaurant in the suburbs of San Jose where we were finishing up a late lunch. We got to talk with them for awhile before heading back to their place and we were struck by how super-nice Evelyn was, and how gregarious and funny Yanil was.

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Yanil, Evelyn and Evan

San Jose is the capital of Costa Rica and is its largest city. We're staying less than 30 minutes to the north, in a quiet suburb away from the hubbub of the capital. Yanil was very excited about having us over. He gave us a ton of options of things we could see and do while we were around San Jose, but we were so tired from traveling the past few weeks, all we wanted to do was just to chill out. So while the family was out at work and school, we got some relax-time in.

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This is Misty, the real boss of the house

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Neda is happy she is able to cook again

In the evenings, when Yanil and Evelyn came back from work, we all took Misty for her evening walk around the neighbourhood. It was exactly the relaxing kind of stay we wanted and we got a chance to spend some time with our hosts. Yanil used to live and work in the US, so his English was perfect. Because Evelyn was more comfortable with Spanish, I got an opportunity to show how bad my Espanol was. Turns out her English was way better than my Spanish, so we all ended up talking English anyway just to accommodate me... :(

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Yanil on his pride and joy: G650GS!

The next day, Yanil led us out to the BMW dealership in San Jose where I needed to get my EWS ring sensor replaced. We are instructed to remove our sidecases from off our bikes because we're going to be riding through the morning rush hour. Commute time with lane-splitting: 30 minutes. Commute time with our sidecases on: Better pack a lunch.

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Neda waits outside

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Neda waits inside

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A couple of hours of minor surgery and we're out the door

I kept the old ring sensor that Rafael at San Salvador BMW gave me just in case the dreaded EWS problem cropped up again. The sensor is interchangeable among a lot of BMW motorcycles, including Neda's model.

After the service, we went grocery shopping because we're treating Yanil and his family to a proper Thanksgiving dinner that night!

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Thanksgiving with our new friends

Latin America doesn't celebrate Thanksgiving, and to be honest, it's not that big for us either, but it was nice to be able to have an excuse to eat lots of food (no turkey though - Neda made beef stirfry!) with good company. This is our second Thanksgiving on the road, and every holiday or birthday, I'm reminded of just how long we've been on the road and where we were 12 months ago. Last year, we were eating turkey sandwiches at the Stonehenge memorial in Washington!

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Evan and his most favorite toy in the whole wide world!

A couple of days later, Yanil, Evelyn and Evan all took the day off to take us up to the Poas volcano, about a scenic hour and half drive through small towns and coffee fields. On the ride up, Yanil tried to teach me some Costa Rican slang. "Pura vida" is the most common phrase and is used as a greeting or a farewell. "Tuanis, mae" means, "What's up, man!", another greeting and "Tico" is the nickname that Costa Ricans call themselves. While talking to Yanil, I got that there's quite a rivalry between the Central American countries, especially between the Ticos and the Nicas (Nicaraguans). Apparently the Nicas are jealous of the Costa Ricans, because, well... Costa Rica is just more awesome.

As we pulled up to the gate of the park, Yanil told me that he was going to try to score us some local admission tickets instead of having us pay the full tourist price. All I had to do was convince the guard at the gate that I was a "Tico"... He rolled down the window to talk to the guard with a jovial, "Pura vida, mae!" After some ******** chat, the guard looked at all the occupants of the car and fixed his glare at me. I tried to stammer out a "Tuanis, mae! Pura vida!", almost certain that I screwed up something that simple.

The guard's eyes narrowed as he turned back to Yanil and sold him 5 local admission tickets. It worked! Yeah, right. I'm sure the guard had a good chuckle over the asian guy trying to speak Tico with a bad gringo accent.

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Poas volcano is Costa Rica's largest and most active volcano

It wasn't the best day to visit the volcano as the clouds and the rain hampered our view a little but we could still see the steam rising from the volcano.

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Ladies mug for the camera

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In front of Poas volcano

That evening was the big Costa Rica vs Mexico soccer match for the World Cup qualifiers. Yanil had been talking about this all week. Evelyn made us some hot dogs and we all crowded in front of the TV. I don't know much about the World Cup, but apparently Mexico, who was the big favorite and perennial powerhouse, wasn't doing very well this year and was facing elimination - something that Yanil was very happy about. If there was a rivalry between Ticos and Nicas, it paled in comparison to the one between the whole of Central America vs Mexico, especially during World Cup season!

It was a close match going back and forth, but Costa Rica pulled an upset by defeating Mexico 2-1. Yanil went nuts! And outside, it sounded like every car in Costa Rica was honking their horns. Unfortunately, the celebrations became slightly more muted as a few minutes later, the USA won their game against Panama, saving Mexico from elimination.

It was so interesting and funny seeing these rivalries in Central America that I wasn't even aware of. Reminds me of all the Canada vs US ribbing.

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After the game, Evelyn tries out Neda's bike for size. Looking good!

We stayed for four days at Yanil and Evelyn's place, and we had such a good time hanging out with them that we didn't want to leave, but we were on a schedule again. So the next morning we said a sad farewell to Evelyn, Evan and Misty as Yanil joined us on his bike to take us back out on the road.

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Saddlebags and luggage remounted. Ugh. Back on the road again!
 

detnight

New member
enjoying

I first started following ya'll a few days after ya'll started the thread on ADVrider. I followed the thread till you crossed the Mexico border and had not seen it again till a few nights ago on here. Sure did like playing catch up..... Keep the dream alive and enjoy. Oh I almost forgot how many miles have logged since you left.
thanks for the great read
David
Texas City ,Texas
 
Update from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/120.html on October 18th, 2013

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Just a quick update. We left Yanil and Evelyn's place and headed westwards to follow the Pacific coast to Manuel Antonio National Park. The ride was typical Central American jungle scenery, but we were a bit disappointed that the coastal road was quite a bit inland, so we didn't get a view of the ocean on our ride southwards.

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Heading south again

We checked into a hotel just outside the tiny town of Quepos, just a couple of kms away from the park. We're still feeling a bit travel-fatigued and decided to book a couple of nights here. It still rains in the afternoon, so we had to schedule our park outing for the morning.

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Albino tree frog

Neda kept forgetting the name of the park, so we called it the Antonio Banderas Park. It's supposed to be well-known for the diversity of wildlife. It's recommended to book a tour guide, as they have telescopes and can point out all the hidden creatures that you'd normally miss if you walked the park by yourselves.

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Iguana on the lookout for Antonio Banderas

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These caterpillar were hanging in the middle of path at face level. Almost walked into a few of them!

We were promised that we would see a whole bunch of interesting animals, like monkeys and sloths. I especially wanted to see a sloth just because I thought the Spanish name was funny: Oso Perezoso. I read it on a sign somewhere days ago and while we were in San Jose, Evelyn found it hilarious that I kept repeating it like a little kid. Oso Perezoso.

Sadly, the nature walk was a bit of a bust. The guide just pointed out a bunch of bugs and reptiles that you could see anywhere on the side of the road... No Oso Perezosos...

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More caterpillars

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Green iguana, Neda's favorite

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Snake

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We only saw a few Howler Monkeys, they were too far to photograph well. This is a Mantled Howler, common in Costa Rica[/size][/b]

While we were hiking in Arenal a few days ago, we heard hordes of Howler Monkeys in the distance, but never saw them. We read that some of the monkeys get very territorial and throw fruits at hikers that pass by too close. Neda said that it'd be pretty cool to have fruit being thrown at you by a monkey, and I replied, "You mean, like a coconut?"...

The Howler Monkey is the largest monkey in Central and South America. They're well known for their very loud grunts and howls. The Guiness Book of World Records says that Howler Monkeys are the loudest animals in the world and can be heard from as far as 5 kms away!

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More iguana action

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Manuel Antonio is well-known for its beautiful beaches

Unfortunately the tour took longer than we thought and we had to check out of our hotel by noon, so we didn't get a chance to laze about on the beaches. The park was kind of disappointing, we thought we'd see a lot more animals. Didn't live up to its hype. :(

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Bye bye beach

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For the folks on ADV who requested more "calendar" shots of me...

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On our way to Panama!
 

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