Zelix Homemade Trailer Build

[Zelix]

Hey everyone,
I'm new here. I found this place researching trailers. I have decided to start my build. I really love Box Rocket's trailer. I will base my trailer off his design with a few mods to suit my needs. For one I will put the skins inside the tube uprights. I like that look a bit better. I will put some tiedown points on the tubes all around.

here's the preliminary design sketch:

It's subject to change as I progress.

 

[Zelix]

I ordered this trailer kit from ABC Trailer parts:

Trailer kits to make a trailer with a straight tongue trailer frame design including a 3,500 Lb. trailer axle, four-leaf double eye trailer springs, hanger kit, trailer light kit, safety chain, trailer u-bolt kit, fenders and trailer coupler.

The 3500 Lb. straight tounge trailer kit includes the following parts:

1 - Straight trailer axle 3500 Lb. without brakes
2 - Five lug or six lug Hubs with Bearings, seals, grease caps and lug nuts (Assembled onto the axle beam)
1 - 2-3/8" U-bolt kit
2 - Four-leaf double eye springs rated at 1,750 Lbs each 25.25"x1.75"
1 - Single axle hanger kit
2 - 9"x32" Fenders with weld on backs for 14" or 15" wheels
1 - Light kit with wiring harness
2 - Hooked safety chain 3/16"x4'
1 - Trailer coupler for a 2" trailer ball for 2", 2-1/2" or 3" wide tubing

American made axle with a one-year factory warranty.

$188.99

The 3,500 Lb. axles are available for the following size trailer frames:

62" Wheel hub face, 48" spring centers for a 50" wide frame.

Available wheel bolt patterns:

Five Lugs on 4-1/2"

Ultra lube spindles are available for $10.00 extra charge per axle.

It arrived 2 days ago. It looks like a nice kit. I have to clean up my work area and gear up for the build. I will take a picture of the kit this weekend to post.

 

[Box Rocket]

Thanks for the compliment, and glad my trailer has given you a few ideas.

Few things, what will you be pulling the trailer with?

Also, I struggled to find premade trailer fenders that were wide enough to cover the tires I used. The last thing you want is to have the trailer tires throw rocks at the back window of your tow vehicle, or at you and your passengers if you're in an open top vehicle like a Wrangler. Along those lines, it's a small hassle but it will take a little extra fab work to make a good mounting surface for the fenders with the tub uprights on the outside. No big deal though.

So a few impressions of my trailer now that I've used it a few times.....

1) Make the inside dimensions of the tub a minimum of 4x6' (assuming you are keeping the basic dimensions about like mine). My trailer frame (and tub) measures 4x6' to the exterior edges and since I used 1.5" tube for the uprights I am about 3" narrower than 4' inside the tub. Not a huge deal for how I plan to use the trailer but if I wanted to haul a 4x8' sheet of plywood it won't fit flat inside the tub on my trailer. Also, most ATV's are 4' wide at the outside edge of the tires so I could have also fit an ATV in the trailer had I planned that better. But since I don't own an ATV nor plan to, again it's not a big deal, just an observation that might help someone else.

2)5' tongue should be plenty long. For me the goal was to keep the tongue as short as possible without having it contact the side of the truck in a jacknife situation. This would allow me better maneuverability on tight trails. On my trailer, a 4' tongue ended up just about perfect for that. However with the addition of a water cans and a tongue box/cooler I've found that I need to be careful in situations like crossing a ditch where the trailer is pitched forward toward the back of the truck just so my spare tire doesn't make contact with the stuff on the front of the trailer. This hasn't been an issue yet at all and there seems to be plenty of room still but maybe a few more inches of tongue length would have been good. Personally I certainly wouldn't go any longer than 5' with the tongue.

A good measurement to go by is to take the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and make the measurement from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the trailer axle close to or the same as the wheelbase measurement. That way the trailer will track very close to the same line as the tow vehicle. This is helpful on rutted tracks or tight trails etc.

3)My tub is ~19" tall which ended up working perfectly but only by complete dumb luck. I decided on the measurement purely by "feel" and what "looked right". I suggest taking a close look at the coolers, bins, fuel cans etc that you plan to put inside the trailer and make sure that they fit under the lip of the trailer. Like I said, my Scepter cans, coolers and just about everything I have fit extremely well but like I said, I didn't plan around that gear, it was complete luck. I'd hate for you to find yourself a little too short or something like that for the gear you need to carry just because someone didn't point out their own mistake and possibly help you from making the same one.

4) I would not use DIY bedliner again. I used Raptor liner on mine which IMO is hands-down the best DIY bedliner I've seen. It's been "ok" at best, but because you will be constantly dragging things in and out of the trailer whatever bedliner you choose to use will get abused for sure. If you can budget it, I highly suggest a professionally sprayed bedliner like Line-X or the like. My Raptor liner is fine so far but I have concerns about its long-term durability. I'll be adding a rubber mat to the floor of the trailer to help reduce some of the wear on the liner and also reduce the sliding of gear.


Good luck and I'm anxious to see the improvements you'll make to my simple design.

 

[Zelix]

Thanks for the compliment, and glad my trailer has given you a few ideas.

Few things, what will you be pulling the trailer with?

No worries, Your trailer is worthy of praise!


I will be pulling it with a 97 Jeep Wrangler.

Also, I struggled to find premade trailer fenders that were wide enough to cover the tires I used. The last thing you want is to have the trailer tires throw rocks at the back window of your tow vehicle, or at you and your passengers if you're in an open top vehicle like a Wrangler. Along those lines, it's a small hassle but it will take a little extra fab work to make a good mounting surface for the fenders with the tub uprights on the outside. No big deal though.

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind. The kit I bought has prefabbed fenders. I wont be putting any big tires on it. I hope to find some used JEEP rims at the salvage yard and put basic tires on it.

So a few impressions of my trailer now that I've used it a few times.....

1) Make the inside dimensions of the tub a minimum of 4x6' (assuming you are keeping the basic dimensions about like mine). My trailer frame (and tub) measures 4x6' to the exterior edges and since I used 1.5" tube for the uprights I am about 3" narrower than 4' inside the tub. Not a huge deal for how I plan to use the trailer but if I wanted to haul a 4x8' sheet of plywood it won't fit flat inside the tub on my trailer. Also, most ATV's are 4' wide at the outside edge of the tires so I could have also fit an ATV in the trailer had I planned that better. But since I don't own an ATV nor plan to, again it's not a big deal, just an observation that might help someone else.

Thanks, Its a good observation. I'll re evaluated my plans before cutting any steel.

BTW: I have a harbor freight 4'x8' trailer to haul building material on. My father also just bought a nice trailer I can use.

I am strictly using this trailer for vacationing, hauling firewood, camping, hauling deer out of the woods and hauling dirt/sand/gardening items in. I might make a few mods to put some risers to haul even more... still in the thinking stages of that.

2)5' tongue should be plenty long. For me the goal was to keep the tongue as short as possible without having it contact the side of the truck in a jacknife situation. This would allow me better maneuverability on tight trails. On my trailer, a 4' tongue ended up just about perfect for that. However with the addition of a water cans and a tongue box/cooler I've found that I need to be careful in situations like crossing a ditch where the trailer is pitched forward toward the back of the truck just so my spare tire doesn't make contact with the stuff on the front of the trailer. This hasn't been an issue yet at all and there seems to be plenty of room still but maybe a few more inches of tongue length would have been good. Personally I certainly wouldn't go any longer than 5' with the tongue.

A good measurement to go by is to take the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and make the measurement from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the trailer axle close to or the same as the wheelbase measurement. That way the trailer will track very close to the same line as the tow vehicle. This is helpful on rutted tracks or tight trails etc.

I see alot of cool 'racks' for storage on the front of trailers. I'll probably add one later on as I use the trailer and get a better feel for my needs.

I don't really do any major 4 wheeling or rock crawling [yet] so I'm not so concerned with that aspect at the moment. I'll be on some low key logging trails & firebreaks usually.

3)My tub is ~19" tall which ended up working perfectly but only by complete dumb luck. I decided on the measurement purely by "feel" and what "looked right". I suggest taking a close look at the coolers, bins, fuel cans etc that you plan to put inside the trailer and make sure that they fit under the lip of the trailer. Like I said, my Scepter cans, coolers and just about everything I have fit extremely well but like I said, I didn't plan around that gear, it was complete luck. I'd hate for you to find yourself a little too short or something like that for the gear you need to carry just because someone didn't point out their own mistake and possibly help you from making the same one.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I thought about 'covers' and I'm not certain what way I'll eventually go. I love the look of your trailer so I'll probably use the 19+/- measurement.

4) I would not use DIY bedliner again. I used Raptor liner on mine which IMO is hands-down the best DIY bedliner I've seen. It's been "ok" at best, but because you will be constantly dragging things in and out of the trailer whatever bedliner you choose to use will get abused for sure. If you can budget it, I highly suggest a professionally sprayed bedliner like Line-X or the like. My Raptor liner is fine so far but I have concerns about its long-term durability. I'll be adding a rubber mat to the floor of the trailer to help reduce some of the wear on the liner and also reduce the sliding of gear.

I'm thinking of going with some thick wood decking for the flooring and some kind of roll on bedliner for the sides. I'm thinking of using 14 ga. for the sides.


Good luck and I'm anxious to see the improvements you'll make to my simple design.[/QUOTE]

I like the simple clean lines of your trailer. I doubt anyone could 'improve' your design. I'm merely going to copy, yet tweek to my personal needs. Since I'll be using it for multiple tasks I think keeping it simple will the best for my needs.

one thing I'm thinking is to use the 2x2x1/8 tubing for the entire project.

I also have to admit this is my first major steel fabrication / welding project. I normally work with wood.

Wish me luck as I hope to get started on it this weekend.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Are you going to use 2x2x1/8 for the main frame? I strongly recommend 2x3 or even 2x4. Even if you go with a thinner wall, like 0.100" if you can get it, will be better for the frame. Even if it's just the main frame perimeter and tongue, while the crossmembers remain 2x2. 2x3 is probably something like twice as stiff in bending compared to 2x2, and weighs only a fraction more.

 

[Box Rocket]

:shrug: I guess I can't disagree but I just used 2.5x2.5" for my main frame and tongue. I think that's plenty strong. 2x2 is probably adequate but it never hurts to overbuild and if you really loaded it down and found that 2x2 wasn't enough, that would be a bummer.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

2x2 or 2.5x2.5 could/probably is fine. I'm just saying that if you're going to go to the trouble of building a trailer from scratch, i think the frame perimeter should be 2x3 at least, since it costs only pennies more, weighs only a little more (10%?) and is probably twice as stiff. It just makes good sense.

 

[Zelix]

Are you going to use 2x2x1/8 for the main frame? I strongly recommend 2x3 or even 2x4. Even if you go with a thinner wall, like 0.100" if you can get it, will be better for the frame. Even if it's just the main frame perimeter and tongue, while the crossmembers remain 2x2. 2x3 is probably something like twice as stiff in bending compared to 2x2, and weighs only a fraction more.

Thanks. I might just do that. build the "floor" perimeter with 2x3x1/8 and the tongue as well.

:shrug: I guess I can't disagree but I just used 2.5x2.5" for my main frame and tongue. I think that's plenty strong. 2x2 is probably adequate but it never hurts to overbuild and if you really loaded it down and found that 2x2 wasn't enough, that would be a bummer.

:coffeedrink:I agree.. never hurts to overbuild..better than under building.

2x2 or 2.5x2.5 could/probably is fine. I'm just saying that if you're going to go to the trouble of building a trailer from scratch, i think the frame perimeter should be 2x3 at least, since it costs only pennies more, weighs only a little more (10%?) and is probably twice as stiff. It just makes good sense.

Thanks guys for the input. I'll go with the 2x3 for the floor perimeter. I can' use 2x2 for the middle cross pieces that'll give me 1" for the floor decking.

might upgrade the tongue to a 2x3x1/4...still thinking about it.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I wouldn't go 1/4" thick. That's really thick. You use wall thickness when you don't have room for a bigger pipe, such as a 2" square reciever tube should be thick if it had to bolt into a 2" coupler. But if you're doing a tongue structure and want more strength, I recommend just going 2.5 or 3" 1/8 or 3/16.

 

[ntsqd]

I agree, there is more strength in size than there is in wall thickness. Use wall thickness where going larger is not easy or possible. Using size instead of wall thickness offers more strength for the weight carried.

 

[Zelix]

I wouldn't go 1/4" thick. That's really thick. You use wall thickness when you don't have room for a bigger pipe, such as a 2" square reciever tube should be thick if it had to bolt into a 2" coupler. But if you're doing a tongue structure and want more strength, I recommend just going 2.5 or 3" 1/8 or 3/16.

Thanks for the input

I agree, there is more strength in size than there is in wall thickness. Use wall thickness where going larger is not easy or possible. Using size instead of wall thickness offers more strength for the weight carried.

Thanks guys, I'm so wishy washy.. I'm seriously considering going with the 2x2x1/8 thru out the entire project...with exception of the 2x3x1/8 floor perimeter and tongue. I'm not going to be hauling any major loads with it.

If I make it lite.... I might have to make a stronger one later MORE PROJECT ACTION!.. hehe.
:beer:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

You might see if you can get 2x2x0.100 wall for the walls and other parts. In hind sight, I wish I had, to save a bit more weight.

 

[Box Rocket]

Just a thought, typical hitches are 2" so a 2.5" tube that's 3/16 wall thickness is just right to use as the tongue material. Or you can get it in 1/4" wall thickness. I used 3/16 and reinforced the end of it where the hitch goes into it.

I just read you wanting to use 2x3 for the frame and tongue and wasn't sure how you were going to use 2x3 for the tongue if you plan to slide a hitch into it. If you are planning on welding or solid mounting whatever hitch you use, then do what you like.

I'll stay out of it after this, but since you're planning on a trailer very similar in size to mine, 2x2 for the entire thing seems like serious overkill. Now for something larger like R_Lefebvre's trailer then I can see that making sense. Of course like I said before, it never hurts to overbuild something but 2x2 just seems like a lot to me.

Now back to keeping my mouth shut.

 

[ntsqd]

It really depends on the end goal. 2x2 using a fairly thin wall (<0.09") might be just the ticket. There is no single correct answer, only what is right for you.

Be careful with selecting socket tubing, a 2.5" x .250" wall tube may or may not allow a typical slider to slip inside it. The tubing used in the sockets of socket receivers is specifically made for that application. It doesn't have an internal seam rib and the corner radii are slightly sharper than normal. Of course, they charge more for that stuff. Never hurts to try the std. tube, but take a sample of what you want to slide into it with you.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Adam, no need to bow out of the conversation. We're just talking about what is the ideal direction to go, and if he's copying your design, then by all means... I think what you did is really good, as I said I'm a fan. Simple and easy to build. 1.5 square tubes for the sides is probably fine on a small trailer, you're not building a dump truck. In my case, I have a total of only 6 uprights on a much larger, much taller trailer. I just recommend a 2x3 frame, as it's an easy upgrade with substantially more strength.

For the tongue, I am really happy with the way I did mine, and recommend it to everyone. You're right, you can't slide a 2x2 tube into a 2x3, but I wasn't sure if he was planning on that. When I suggested 2x3 for the tongue, I was mostly referring to the side branches. Then you can use a 2x2 or 2.5x2.5 for the central member, and bring them together like this:

The joint was hard to do, but I really like it. Lots of weld to join them together, no stress concentrations... The only thing was, it was hard to cut, as I say, takes some fiddling. I didn't quite do it right and the gap at the back was way too large and I couldn't even weld it up (maybe could have with a MIG). This design needs to be backed up, the central member needs to be extended all the way back to the frame, or in my case I turned it into an A frame.

Now, as for the tube, I called the steel shop, and when I asked for 2.5x2.5x1/4 they asked "Are you building a hitch? We have a special tube, 0.234" with a ground inner seam so that a 2x2 will slide in". Perfect. It was expensive though. I think $75 for 3 feet. Anyway, that's what you want, and it sounds like it's common. I also bought a 1" piece of 3x3x1/4 which I put on the end for reinforcement. I recommend this strongly. It was hard work getting that on there too, which highlights the folly of trying to slide 2x2 into a regular 2.5x2.5.