A Sucker Born Every Minute

richard cabesa

Adventurer
OK, a couple of books ordered on RV electric and systems.

Then a craigs list search and found a set of wheels at a resonable price. Now I can figure out axle length and get that ordered. I also did a bit of a survey of the frame to see what would have to be beefed up.

557614738_EdKsM-L-1.jpg


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What a difference some wheels and a little altitude make
 

sseaman

Adventurer
Nice looking wheels. I almost bought a set last week for $150 but the backspacing was more than I needed.
 

richard cabesa

Adventurer
Hi

No new pictures of anything 'cause there's just planning going on. I think I've talked myself into completly replacing the frame. It's thinner wall 2x2" tube and I was just going to double it up with 1/8" wall 2x2 that I have. I figured if I was going to go though the trouble, I might as well just start fresh with 2x4" . Doing this will make it easier in the long run and I can extend the hitch end a few inches so the spare will fit up there.

The new axle should be here in a week or so and I've collected a few other parts. Spring hangers, shock mounts etc.

The question for today is, how much suspension travel do you really need? Articulation is mostly handled by the hitch so aren't you really just looking for shock absorbtion? I see what looks like maybe 4" on many of the trailers pictured on Expo. Is that enough?
 

450 DUDE

Adventurer
You think? 2x4? I know you prolly thought about it but that seams like super crazy overkill. I it were me ( speech) I go with maybe some 2x2 cross bracing if required??

On the articulation sounds like your about right 4" I know mine barely even moves.
Love the trailer btw.


ken

No new pictures of anything 'cause there's just planning going on. I think I've talked myself into completly replacing the frame. It's thinner wall 2x2" tube and I was just going to double it up with 1/8" wall 2x2 that I have. I figured if I was going to go though the trouble, I might as well just start fresh with 2x4" . Doing this will make it easier in the long run and I can extend the hitch end a few inches so the spare will fit up there.

The new axle should be here in a week or so and I've collected a few other parts. Spring hangers, shock mounts etc.

The question for today is, how much suspension travel do you really need? Articulation is mostly handled by the hitch so aren't you really just looking for shock absorbtion? I see what looks like maybe 4" on many of the trailers pictured on Expo. Is that enough?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Per foot 2x4x.120 wall is going to weigh 8/10 of a pound more than 2x3x.120 wall (3.88/ft vs. 4.7/ft). Good or bad? I don't know, I've not seen the trailer & have no idea what kinds of loads it will put on the frame. Could be that by going to 2x4 that you could back off to .109 wall (4.3/ft) to save some weight.
 

T.Low

Expedition Leader
Sorry to post without adding any technical advice at this point in the thread, but I just can't get over how closely the wheel well lines and side window lines match the Tacoma fender well lines. Even though they are almost opposite in direction, they look great together.

I love the color. I imagine you'll be saving it for last anyway, as you remodel the functionality of it.

I'll soon be keeping an eye out for something simiar to pull with my 4.3l van. Add me to the list of subscribers. Cheers.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Per foot 2x4x.120 wall is going to weigh 8/10 of a pound more than 2x3x.120 wall (3.88/ft vs. 4.7/ft). Good or bad? I don't know, I've not seen the trailer & have no idea what kinds of loads it will put on the frame. Could be that by going to 2x4 that you could back off to .109 wall (4.3/ft) to save some weight.

The only thing I'm wary of with thinner walled frames is they don't have as much crush resistance for locally applied loads. I was trying to straighten some welding warp with judicious use of a BFH and dented a few places on the my frame, and that's with 1/8". Just another thing to think about.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Good point Rob. I don't think that I'd go any thinner than the .109" wall regardless.
 

richard cabesa

Adventurer
I figured you guys would toss this around while I was at work. Thanks!

I'm still tossing around the bigger vs thinner idea myself. I deffinately wouldn't go thinner than .109 wall if I use the 2x4. I am concerned with impact damage on the thinner wall as well.

A few things on additional loads over the way it sits now.

1: The spring mounts will be spreading out to 40" vs the 25" currently. (Jeep CJ3 springs)

2: Added load at the front by adding the 75lb spare along with the propane tank and battery there. Also, I'm moving the water tank to across the front interior wall instead of along one side.

3: Added load on a receiver at the rear for my swing-out gas/water can carrier. I'll carry it there until set up as base camp somewhere and then move it to the truck for the rougher stuff.

4: Maybe 100lbs of added misc in my interior rebuild. Not worried about this one too much as it will be spread around pretty evenly

Number three is my main concern though I could just leave the swing-out empty for towing, with the cans in the truck or carried over the axle in the trailer.

Hmmmm . . .

going to look at the tube charts now :beer:
 
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richard cabesa

Adventurer
Kudos to Southwest Wheel

I just stopped home for lunch and what's on the door step?

My new axle!!!!!!

I ordered it on Thursday morning the 9th and here it is only the 15th and it's here exactly as ordered. From Texas!

Just thought I would throw out a good word for an internet vendor that perfomed.

Thank you Southwest Wheel.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/


The only issue with it is the wheel studs are the wrong thread for the Toyota lugs. I didn't even think to discuss this with them.
 

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