R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I would just add a locking hasp, rather than trying to replace those with locking versions, unless you can find the EXACT same in a locking version.
I joined the Cult
- Thread starter teotwaki
- Start date
teotwaki
Excelsior!
That may well be the path to take because the hinges on the other side of the lid have removeable pins so a locking hasp on that side would be needed too.
nwoods
Expedition Leader
John broke a leaf spring, so we ratchet strapped a block of firewood into place. It worked great!
nwoods
Expedition Leader
No kidding! In one week he accomplished more on his trailer than I have all summer. Although, I did USE my trailer a few times in the past two months LOL!
jdholder
Explorer
It worked great!! All the way through the rest of the trail, all the way home - no issues!
I must have a thing about breaking springs - last time out with SCLR, I broke a rear air bag in the Range Rover. I had to wedge the bottom plastic piece of the air bag between the bump stop and the frame to get home. Again, it worked GREAT!
I guess I just like wedging things in places.
I'm glad to read that your springs are NOT typical trailer springs. My new (to me) Sankey Trailer has not only leaf springs, but also big RUBBER bumpstop looking springs above the leafs. I don't think it will articulate much, but I bet it's bomb proof!
I must have a thing about breaking springs - last time out with SCLR, I broke a rear air bag in the Range Rover. I had to wedge the bottom plastic piece of the air bag between the bump stop and the frame to get home. Again, it worked GREAT!
I guess I just like wedging things in places.
I'm glad to read that your springs are NOT typical trailer springs. My new (to me) Sankey Trailer has not only leaf springs, but also big RUBBER bumpstop looking springs above the leafs. I don't think it will articulate much, but I bet it's bomb proof!
teotwaki
Excelsior!
I am standing on the shoulders of all of the Portal folks who blazed the trails on these issues
teotwaki
Excelsior!
Am doodling some ideas for mounting fuel cans externally on the sides near the corners. At the back I can comfortably fit my Scepter 10L half sized cans using an old school blitz jerry can holder
Towards the front I could use Adventure Trailer fuel can holders horizontally
Using Paint to envision things
Towards the front I could use Adventure Trailer fuel can holders horizontally
Using Paint to envision things
Last edited:
Signcutter21
Adventurer
Expanding on what Photog said, I have my AT can holder mounted there. Well actually the previous owner of the trailer mounted one there. To compansate for the angle of the tub and for some extra reinforcement, he built a small "shelf". This gives the holder a bit stability too. The holder sits out off the bed a few inches so it can be opened up. I do have it facing forward also to ease in getting the can out. I'll see about finding some pictures to give you an idea.
later, mike
later, mike
teotwaki
Excelsior!
As for the drawing I was thinking of facing it that way so it would not be a "scoop" to fill up with desert tail dust or mud from the 4Runner's tires. If the fit turned out funky then facing forward is the easy route.
Photog
Explorer
I see what you mean, about it being a scoop. That would be a messy problem. I'm sure you will find that perfect position that makes it all work as well as the rest of the trailer.
teotwaki
Excelsior!
I see what you mean, about it being a scoop. That would be a messy problem. I'm sure you will find that perfect position that makes it all work as well as the rest of the trailer.
I always appreciate the input and the kind words! Worrying about the "scoop" effect is probably a little over the top but I generally attempt to define all the problems that my solutions have to overcom and then genuflect to the gods of budget and practicality.
teotwaki
Excelsior!
Electrical
One area where the builder of my trailer has come up a bit short is in the wiring in the nose box. There are no fuses or breakers whatsoever and wire routing is lackluster.
I'd like to add some sort of non-conductive cover over the batteries to prevent shorts from items being placed in the nose box. Or at least some terminal covers to protect from shorts. I started to mock up a panel for mounting a breaker for the inverter, fuses for the cig lighter outlets, marine battery tender, relay for backup lights and a solar charge controller. The panel will mount on the back of the nose box above the batteries.
The battery charger is a 6 Amp unit to maintain the batteries when the trailer is garaged. I think I will move the battery charger to the right of the panel under the solar charge controller.
The 30 Amp solar charge controller is a little overkill for capacity but has a nice LCD monitor for amps and volts. If my 65 watt Kyocera rigid panel cannot keep up with charging the batteries I can parallel my foldable 65 watt panel and the controller can handle the extra amps quite easily.
The inverter needs a 150 Amp breaker but right now I have a 100 Amp unit handy so I'll use that. I'll order up a 150 and then use the 100 amp breaker to feed the other accessories through the Blue Seas fuse box. The fuse box will feed the 12 volt outlets, reverse lights, work lights and possibly the two-way radio. I'm also thinking of a fuseable link between the two batteries rather than leave them hard wired.
I will be adding a weatherproof port for the charger's AC cord and a bulkhead connector for the solar panel to feed the nose box when the lid is closed and locked. Probably a bulkhead port for the radio's antennas too.
While I am at it I'll look over the battery mounting to see if it can be improved. The right battery in the picture sits very close to the wires from the 7 pin tow connector.
One area where the builder of my trailer has come up a bit short is in the wiring in the nose box. There are no fuses or breakers whatsoever and wire routing is lackluster.
I'd like to add some sort of non-conductive cover over the batteries to prevent shorts from items being placed in the nose box. Or at least some terminal covers to protect from shorts. I started to mock up a panel for mounting a breaker for the inverter, fuses for the cig lighter outlets, marine battery tender, relay for backup lights and a solar charge controller. The panel will mount on the back of the nose box above the batteries.
The battery charger is a 6 Amp unit to maintain the batteries when the trailer is garaged. I think I will move the battery charger to the right of the panel under the solar charge controller.
The 30 Amp solar charge controller is a little overkill for capacity but has a nice LCD monitor for amps and volts. If my 65 watt Kyocera rigid panel cannot keep up with charging the batteries I can parallel my foldable 65 watt panel and the controller can handle the extra amps quite easily.
The inverter needs a 150 Amp breaker but right now I have a 100 Amp unit handy so I'll use that. I'll order up a 150 and then use the 100 amp breaker to feed the other accessories through the Blue Seas fuse box. The fuse box will feed the 12 volt outlets, reverse lights, work lights and possibly the two-way radio. I'm also thinking of a fuseable link between the two batteries rather than leave them hard wired.
I will be adding a weatherproof port for the charger's AC cord and a bulkhead connector for the solar panel to feed the nose box when the lid is closed and locked. Probably a bulkhead port for the radio's antennas too.
While I am at it I'll look over the battery mounting to see if it can be improved. The right battery in the picture sits very close to the wires from the 7 pin tow connector.