What multi axis hitch do you prefer?

[spressomon]

FWIW: We just got back from a 2-week trip to hell and back all the while pulling the KK and its Treg into some VERY precarious terrain. I have to say the Treg performs significantly better than I originally expected; especially to the extreme we did over the past 2-weeks including some very tight trails that required a few multi-point turns that involved acute angles between the trailer and LC. I have approximately 8,000 miles on the new KK and the Treg; the last 2-weeks being the first serious off-road test of both.

The LnR develops slop in the pressed pin assembly and other areas to the point it IMO induces trailer wag especially noticeable on the highway at highway speeds (based upon 2.5 years of hard use). The Treg's lack of additional play/slop as compared to the LnR IMO adds to the tracking precision I am experiencing.

I carry a spare 3/4" pin commonly available at any trailer supply store just in case I lose the Treg's pin. The difference in diameter compared to the Treg's pin is nominal. That leaves the small coil spring used to tension the pin in use which shouldn't be an insurmountable find.

However there is the issue of availability as Mario mentioned and then price. Obtaining anything from 1/2 way around the globe isn't easy, consistent nor cheap (they're made in AU).

 

[ntsqd]

Looking at the Treg page for close-up pictures I'm not seeing a need for that spring. If it is simply to elevate the handle portion of the pin, and that was deemed necessary, I'd go with a split collar instead.

If the spring somehow additionally secures the hat pin/cotter pin, then I'd source one from mcmaster or a local hardware store.

I wonder if the urethane block could be made locally? McMaster does sell polyurethane molding compounds. Something like p/n 8644K58. A form would be needed.
Or it could be purchased in a bulk size, then cut and drilled. I guessed at the size just to see what was possible. P/N: 8631K856, 3" x 3" x 6", Shore 75D, 7500 psi Tensile Strength, $74.50

 

[Tucson T4R]

It looks to me that the spring on the Treg T handle pin does in fact hold the pin up to ensure the lower locking pin that goes the bottom of the pin is properly set in position so it can't fall out. The lower retention pin has a sholder on the head that seats over an edge that holds it in place. Without the spring, the locking pin would be free to move.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: I'm afraid there just ain't no free lunches anymore

I've got about 1800 miles on my L & R, but Ive greased it and applied internal grease, to the receiver bound swivel and it's still pretty tight

Course my trailer is light and doesn't "LOAD" the hitch to much

:wings::smiley_drive::safari-rig::safari-rig: JIMBO

 

[ntsqd]

Brad,
Would a Linch Pin work instead?

I'm just trying to find work-around's for long lead items.

 

[Tucson T4R]

Brad,
Would a Linch Pin work instead?

I'm just trying to find work-around's for long lead items.

I didn't know the name of the pin being used on the Treg. The Linch pin you show is what is being used now. The lip on the head of the pin where the ring goes through, is what is held against the edge of the hitch to keep it stationary in addition to the primary spring loaded retention ring built into the pin. Works great so far. :sombrero:

 

[Martyn]

Looking at the Treg page for close-up pictures I'm not seeing a need for that spring. If it is simply to elevate the handle portion of the pin, and that was deemed necessary, I'd go with a split collar instead.

If the spring somehow additionally secures the hat pin/cotter pin, then I'd source one from mcmaster or a local hardware store.

I wonder if the urethane block could be made locally? McMaster does sell polyurethane molding compounds. Something like p/n 8644K58. A form would be needed.
Or it could be purchased in a bulk size, then cut and drilled. I guessed at the size just to see what was possible. P/N: 8631K856, 3" x 3" x 6", Shore 75D, 7500 psi Tensile Strength, $74.50

I think if you are going to make a coupler you could improve on the Treg design. The Treg has issues with binding that need to be addressed.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I wonder if the urethane block could be made locally? McMaster does sell polyurethane molding compounds. Something like p/n 8644K58. A form would be needed.
Or it could be purchased in a bulk size, then cut and drilled. I guessed at the size just to see what was possible. P/N: 8631K856, 3" x 3" x 6", Shore 75D, 7500 psi Tensile Strength, $74.50

I'm sure you could. I know I've seen blocks of PU at the metal shop. Could probably also use UHMW or Delrin, easily available in blocks. They wouldn't have as much cushioning, but would have even less friction. And I don't think much cushioning is needed since, pintles, balls and LnR have none anyway.

I'm interested in the bind that Martyn is alluding to. I wonder if the best design would be like a universal joint with a single pivot point.

 

[ntsqd]

I think if you are going to make a coupler you could improve on the Treg design. The Treg has issues with binding that need to be addressed.

In this case not so much make one, but find more easily US sourced replacement parts for the Treg.

I'm sure you could. I know I've seen blocks of PU at the metal shop. Could probably also use UHMW or Delrin, easily available in blocks. They wouldn't have as much cushioning, but would have even less friction. And I don't think much cushioning is needed since, pintles, balls and LnR have none anyway.

I'm interested in the bind that Martyn is alluding to. I wonder if the best design would be like a universal joint with a single pivot point.

Acetal et. al. would be the easier fabrication choice. I was staying with urethane since that is what is supplied. If I owned a Treg I'd be willing to experiment, but not everyone cares to do that so I figured to try for nearly exact replacement options.

I have looked at, and cursorily analyzed the UJ type hitch. And that's all that I'm going to say about that at this time.

 

[spressomon]

I think if you are going to make a coupler you could improve on the Treg design. The Treg has issues with binding that need to be addressed.

Martyn,

To date I have not experienced this binding you refer to. Did Treg tweak the design maybe from the older version you used? I've had this trailer and Treg in some very precarious, off-angle, jack-knife situations and there is no binding occurring. In fact it is the most direct connect and positive hitch I've used to date. I was originally fixated on swapping the Treg for the LnR but now that I've used it and put my pre-use fears to rest I can say its staying!

 

[Martyn]

Martyn,

To date I have not experienced this binding you refer to. Did Treg tweak the design maybe from the older version you used? I've had this trailer and Treg in some very precarious, off-angle, jack-knife situations and there is no binding occurring. In fact it is the most direct connect and positive hitch I've used to date. I was originally fixated on swapping the Treg for the LnR but now that I've used it and put my pre-use fears to rest I can say its staying!

Manipulate the coupler by hand and you'll see what I mean.

 

[ntsqd]

When you do that does it have high points and and low points, or does it not move easily over the whole range of motion?

 

[Martyn]

When you do that does it have high points and and low points, or does it not move easily over the whole range of motion?

I'll be down at the shop next week, I think we have an Treg, if so I'll shoot video of it.

 

[lowenbrau]

Getting back to topic, old school pintles and lunettes have served me very well. They are silent on the highway and clunk just enough off road to remind you that the trailer is back there. The trouble with a lot of commercially available lunettes is that they are too small. The thicker military versions move smoother, bind less and don't clunk. The upside is that they are very, very strong. I have a photo here somewhere that I'll add of my rig half way up a snowy cutline on a failed climb where I slid backwards with the trailer jack knifed for 20 yards. No damage to the coupler, but some significant carnage to a taillight and quarter panel.

Finally, the photo...

 

[Borrego60]

Sorry to hear about the carnage,cool shot no pun intended.