M100 (post WWII) DOD '53 SN# 2185X
- Thread starter TacoDell
- Start date
Errant
Explorer
LOL yes, I said black would look nicer 
I would LOVE to have a black Can-Back on mine, like Robert Bills has on his Bantam: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgallery.php?cat=924
I would LOVE to have a black Can-Back on mine, like Robert Bills has on his Bantam: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgallery.php?cat=924
TacoDell
Adventurer
No... haven't got to that as of yet.
heck... I'm still trying to decide where to mount the spare tire.
just dealing with the basics at this point.
------------------------------------
another coupla' changes of the basics...
The clips that came with the farmex QD pins were interfering with the opening of the RTT's extended platform... as well as my concern for those staying put...
and so... opted to swap these clips in place of the previous.
The ring on the clip has a spring type tension to them and will keep the clip intact irregardless of positioning...
And then... ordered up a pair of these Gamma Goat lens covers..
It should be fairly obvious as to why.
Ty-Dean Customs
Observer
Ty-Dean Customs
Observer
One more question.
With the metal bushing is there much "play" in the hinge?
With the metal bushing is there much "play" in the hinge?
TacoDell
Adventurer
The hinge can only be purchased with the nylon bushing...
that I'm aware of...
I bought the hinges thru Northern Tool.
The hinges are made/distributed by: http://www.buyersproducts.com/
However you can't purchase the optional steel bushings direct thru them,
and must use one of their authorized distributors.
Northern Tool is not an authorized distributor would seem.
You can request a more local distributor nearer you... by emailing Buyer's Products. And they do respond timely with that info.
I didn't know that metal bushing were available until after I bought these hinges...
as I was having problem with the cheap plastic bushings..
Maybe it is possible to order the hinges with steel bushings... but you'll have to inquire, of that. with the distributor of your choice.
This is whom I used...
truck & auto supply 714 999 7777
ask for Bob... if you go thru this business.
The advantage of using Bob ? He knows what's up 'cause I made him learn something... LoL
The part # for the steel bushings are... # 3008647
Make sure that you reference that you are looking to purchase the steel bushings :2cents:
Oh and if for some reason someone has these and wishes to replace the original nylon bushings... with the same.. that is # 30088636
Tho' I have to say... they're not very durable.
that I'm aware of...
I bought the hinges thru Northern Tool.
The hinges are made/distributed by: http://www.buyersproducts.com/
However you can't purchase the optional steel bushings direct thru them,
and must use one of their authorized distributors.
Northern Tool is not an authorized distributor would seem.
You can request a more local distributor nearer you... by emailing Buyer's Products. And they do respond timely with that info.
I didn't know that metal bushing were available until after I bought these hinges...
as I was having problem with the cheap plastic bushings..
Maybe it is possible to order the hinges with steel bushings... but you'll have to inquire, of that. with the distributor of your choice.
This is whom I used...
truck & auto supply 714 999 7777
ask for Bob... if you go thru this business.
The advantage of using Bob ? He knows what's up 'cause I made him learn something... LoL
The part # for the steel bushings are... # 3008647
Make sure that you reference that you are looking to purchase the steel bushings :2cents:
Oh and if for some reason someone has these and wishes to replace the original nylon bushings... with the same.. that is # 30088636
Tho' I have to say... they're not very durable.
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Ty-Dean Customs
Observer
Thanks for the part number and the info.
With the steel bushing do you think this hinge could be used in a horizontal position without too much sag/play?
With the steel bushing do you think this hinge could be used in a horizontal position without too much sag/play?
TacoDell
Adventurer
Overall... I'll say no. and... well there can be if you like ?
with my farmex QD 1/2" pins... they are a solid fit.
I haven't actually tried re-using the bolts as I've no use for them.
Suppose I could go pull a pin and insert the bolt and let you know if it's something ya just gotta know.
IMO... if you plan to do any welding of these hinges...
the steel bushings are "must have !"
After welding... if some some reason you'd want...
the plastic bushings could be reinserted and then I think there would be a little more play/slop in the hinges...
But most importantly... the steel bushings maintain proper alignment when/if welding... and that's a good thing... 'cause there's always some other metal movement/shrinkage during the weld process.
The nylon/plastic bushings will not tolerate much heat to them...
they were brittle and several of mine were broken (primarily the flanges} in the process of installing them.
The plastic bushings seemed to have more play...
But because I am using QD pins... and will be removing them often...
the plastic bushings wouldn't last the day...
TacoDell
Adventurer
I'd think that wouldn't be all that good to have much weight resting on one flange side of a single bushing.
The bushing flanges are fairly thin...
The main purpose of the bushing are... to act as grease seals.
The metal bushing's flange lip might hold up for a little while, depending on the weight...
But I just feel this hinge design wouldn't be very durable as an horizontal hinge.
Errant
Explorer
Spare? Ut oh, I haven't figured that out yet! I was thinking about trying a junk yard hanger underneath the frame, as I've seen others do. But was waiting until I get to the point of buying new tires and rims for that.
For water, I just ordered an 18gal tank that I'm going to try putting on the a-frame, just forward enough to leave room to work the hand brake.
TacoDell
Adventurer
Using 3M auto motive seal has sorta backfired, for me...
I mean this is one damn nice ~n~ tight seal ! ? and so what's the problem ?
well the seal is a little too tall... the 3M stuff comforms real nice, but in my case, is currently at it's most possibly compressed state...
Sooo... it's not floating and is too tall.
and it may stay for now (or until it fails)... but problem is... it mis-aligns the center hinges slightly and makes inserting the center locks, from what was easy... to now of which is a pita.
I may just oblong the holes in the lid's center hinge mounts,
that might relieve a little pressure... and they're not really supporting the weight of the lid... as the bushings are omitted on the center hinges...
Just for the purpose of making the locks fit easily.
Oblong Holes to relieve pin/lock pressure ?
or ****can $ 40. worth/material, and purchase an new seal ?
~ ^ only the poor need answer ~
One thing I could say about this situation, is that...
with this current seal... after I beat the center lock in there with a lil' hammer..
This damn trailer could float upside down... as well as upright, !
and that's no kidding !
:disclaimer:
No it's not sealed completely at this moment.
As the end caps have not been secured.
thanks.
----------------------------------------------------
oh... and got those gamma goat lens covers in...
painted black and installed...
~'was just as the sun was setting... so not completely dark out yet~
brake pedal depressed...
Now to re-wire these M series light for even more brilliance.
You can see that the lower half of the light is not lit up...
But there is a bulb behind there... just need to re-wire the guts of it.
These lenses make a huge difference as far as visibility.
tho' I guess you'd need to see the original lens covers to see the real difference.
I mean this is one damn nice ~n~ tight seal ! ? and so what's the problem ?
well the seal is a little too tall... the 3M stuff comforms real nice, but in my case, is currently at it's most possibly compressed state...
Sooo... it's not floating and is too tall.
and it may stay for now (or until it fails)... but problem is... it mis-aligns the center hinges slightly and makes inserting the center locks, from what was easy... to now of which is a pita.
I may just oblong the holes in the lid's center hinge mounts,
that might relieve a little pressure... and they're not really supporting the weight of the lid... as the bushings are omitted on the center hinges...
Just for the purpose of making the locks fit easily.
Oblong Holes to relieve pin/lock pressure ?
or ****can $ 40. worth/material, and purchase an new seal ?
~ ^ only the poor need answer ~
One thing I could say about this situation, is that...
with this current seal... after I beat the center lock in there with a lil' hammer..
This damn trailer could float upside down... as well as upright, !
and that's no kidding !
:disclaimer:
No it's not sealed completely at this moment.
As the end caps have not been secured.
thanks.
----------------------------------------------------
oh... and got those gamma goat lens covers in...
painted black and installed...
~'was just as the sun was setting... so not completely dark out yet~
brake pedal depressed...
Now to re-wire these M series light for even more brilliance.
You can see that the lower half of the light is not lit up...
But there is a bulb behind there... just need to re-wire the guts of it.
These lenses make a huge difference as far as visibility.
tho' I guess you'd need to see the original lens covers to see the real difference.
TacoDell
Adventurer
do over...
had an emergency dental appointment this morning and that screwed up my day's plan...
and soooo...
After thinking about it overnite and while waiting for the dentist
I just said to hell with it !.. 'decided to remove the misaligned hinge and reset it.
Somehow I had screwed up when I initially set that... as it was low when I put a string line between the front and rear hinges.
hmmm... did that when I first welded 'em too ?. :dunno:
no matter... It'll be correct now.
It was purdy dang simple actually...
and a much better idea then monkey rigging something else to make a fit.
The bushings will be in when I do the welding. (installed these pics)
if they line up good after the weld up... I leave them in.
otherwise they get set aside to make it easier to remove the lock.
just need to finish the welding.
had an emergency dental appointment this morning and that screwed up my day's plan...
and soooo...
After thinking about it overnite and while waiting for the dentist
I just said to hell with it !.. 'decided to remove the misaligned hinge and reset it.
Somehow I had screwed up when I initially set that... as it was low when I put a string line between the front and rear hinges.
hmmm... did that when I first welded 'em too ?. :dunno:
no matter... It'll be correct now.
It was purdy dang simple actually...
and a much better idea then monkey rigging something else to make a fit.
The bushings will be in when I do the welding. (installed these pics)
if they line up good after the weld up... I leave them in.
otherwise they get set aside to make it easier to remove the lock.
just need to finish the welding.
TacoDell
Adventurer
fixed !
tack welded the spacer washer(s) in... and also beveled the lower edges on them.... so that they cannot strike the flanged edge of the bushing(s) and chance breaking those, when closing the lid.
and after this correction...
the lock(s) slides in and out by hand. easy enough.
But perfect would be better
Anyone know of a place that sells rubber gasket material..
say 1/32" - 1/16" thickness X 2" W... in rolls ?
Nomenclature ? for 'da google ?
I would like to line the backside of the 1 X 2 stock that supports the lower hinge's...
I thought of a thin rubber gasket.. or maybe some spray on rubberized stuff ?
Only need to space out about an 1/32" on each side...
More then that... and it'll possibly go bad the other way. maybe.
My intentions are two-fold...
1. I want to minimize corrosion and the marring of what paint would eventually be under there.
2. want to shim outward, very slightly, the 1" X 2" stock that supports the L hinges. because when I tighten the bolts securing the 1 X 2 stock, it seems to pull the hinges inboard a little more then is perfect.
and so... I want this material to act as a shim of sorts.
I'd like the pins to slide real easy... without break in ! ? LoL
tack welded the spacer washer(s) in... and also beveled the lower edges on them.... so that they cannot strike the flanged edge of the bushing(s) and chance breaking those, when closing the lid.
and after this correction...
the lock(s) slides in and out by hand. easy enough.
But perfect would be better
Anyone know of a place that sells rubber gasket material..
say 1/32" - 1/16" thickness X 2" W... in rolls ?
Nomenclature ? for 'da google ?
I would like to line the backside of the 1 X 2 stock that supports the lower hinge's...
I thought of a thin rubber gasket.. or maybe some spray on rubberized stuff ?
Only need to space out about an 1/32" on each side...
More then that... and it'll possibly go bad the other way. maybe.
My intentions are two-fold...
1. I want to minimize corrosion and the marring of what paint would eventually be under there.
2. want to shim outward, very slightly, the 1" X 2" stock that supports the L hinges. because when I tighten the bolts securing the 1 X 2 stock, it seems to pull the hinges inboard a little more then is perfect.
and so... I want this material to act as a shim of sorts.
I'd like the pins to slide real easy... without break in ! ? LoL
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