2021 RAM 3500 Tradesman | AEV Prospector | FWC Grandby

[ramblinChet]

The Noctua NA-FC1 is a compact controller designed for 4-pin PWM fans, enabling manual speed adjustment. By turning the NA-FC1’s speed control dial, users can set a PWM duty cycle from 0% to 100%. When the INKBIRD ITC-1000 Temperature Controller detects excessive heat inside the K470, it signals the NA-FC1 to activate both fans at the pre-set speed. This system is experimental, and I plan to test it under various conditions to determine the optimal fan speed settings.

The NA-FC1 controller is compact, measuring approximately 1.5 inches in length, and lacks mounting holes or tabs. To secure it, I used 3M VHB (Very High Bond) 5952 tape, which can support up to 80 pounds per square inch in static shear. For this application, I considered the dynamic load and applied a safety factor of approximately 4:1, meaning one square inch of tape can reliably hold a 15–20-pound object.


To track expenses for this project, I am documenting all purchases. These include the 3M VHB 5952 tape, a 21mm hole saw used to cut an opening for the Sealcon cable gland (referenced in my previous post), a 67mm hole saw, and several 1/0 AWG lugs and ring terminals.


I used the 67mm hole saw to drill a precise hole in the battery box beneath the K470 case for mounting a Blue Sea Systems Manual Battery Switch. This switch allows me to isolate the battery bank from other electronics during maintenance or emergencies. Drilling this hole was challenging because I was enlarging an existing hole, leaving no material to guide the pilot bit.

The accompanying image illustrates how I addressed this challenge: I used a scrap piece of wood as a backer to guide the pilot drill. After identifying the center of the existing hole and drilling alignment holes, I attached the backer, drilled a pilot hole to guide the hole saw, and created a perfectly centered hole in the battery box.


After drilling the hole, I test-fitted the battery switch and planned the placement of its four mounting holes. The 67mm hole, as specified by Blue Sea Systems, left a 1mm gap around the switch. To center it precisely, I folded two strips of thin cardboard and inserted them evenly around the switch’s circumference, acting as flexible spacers to ensure perfect alignment.


Additional expenses include socket head bolts and screws for mounting the battery switch. I also purchased two extra screws to prepare for installing the Victron Energy BMV-712 Battery Monitor shunt in the battery box.


The Ancor Premium Battery Cable Stripper (703075) is designed to strip cables from 8 to 4/0 AWG, making it essential for this project. Its adjustable head optimizes blade depth for cutting through insulation, and a lever rotates the blade 90 degrees to remove the insulation efficiently in one motion.


For this project, I chose the Ancor 8 to 1/0 AWG Hex Lug Crimper, which has consistently produced reliable crimps. Measuring 15.4 inches, it fits easily in my tool bag, making it highly portable. Ancor offers a larger crimper for 8 to 4/0 AWG, but at 24.4 inches, it was unnecessary, as my calculations confirmed that 1/0 AWG wire meets the project’s requirements. The accompanying images show a precise crimp and finished wires with heat shrink tubing. I used Ancor marine-grade wire, tinned copper lugs, and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing to ensure durability. My goal is to build a safe, cost-effective system, as substandard connections between premium components create vulnerabilities, much like weak links in a chain.


Balancing a new battery bank before use is essential for optimal performance, longevity, and safety. Batteries should have identical voltage and capacity, ideally from the same manufacturer and batch. To balance them, follow these steps: First, fully charge each battery and let it rest for several hours, disconnected from chargers or loads. Next, use a multimeter to verify that the open-circuit voltages are within 0.1V of each other. Then, connect the batteries in parallel using cables of identical length and gauge to ensure equal resistance and current sharing. Allow the connected batteries to rest for 12–24 hours, then integrate them into the system and charge them once more before use. The accompanying images show the open-circuit voltages for each battery before connection.


For this project, I repurposed a 6–7-year-old Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor previously used in my Jeep. I cleaned areas with corrosion, circled in red in the accompanying images, using a Dremel and abrasive bit to eliminate resistance in the battery bank’s main circuit. The BMV-712 provides real-time monitoring of battery state of charge, voltage, current, and energy consumption via its built-in Bluetooth and VictronConnect app, enabling optimized battery usage and protection against over-discharging.


To mount the BMV-712 on a ¾-inch-thick exterior wall, I aimed to maximize screw depth without penetrating the outer surface. I measured carefully, selected appropriate screws, and prepared to drill pilot holes to the optimal depth. Since I needed only two holes and had #10 flat washers available, I fashioned an adjustable drill depth gauge to ensure precision. One of the best things about working for yourself is you get to call the shots and go your own way...

 

[ramblinChet]

After installing the Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch (#6006), I evaluated using the Benedikt & Jäger LS series DC disconnect switch I had previously purchased as a solar disconnect. My primary concern was its size, as space was limited. This led me to explore using another battery switch to disconnect the solar panels. My two RICH Solar MEGA 250 panels have an Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) of 22.8 Vdc, which, when wired in series, results in a system Voc of 45.6 Vdc at Standard Test Conditions (25°C or 77°F). This is significant because the BSS #6006 has a maximum voltage rating of 48 Vdc and 300 amps continuous, while the panels have a temperature coefficient of -0.29%/°C. For every degree Celsius above 25°C, the Voc decreases by 0.29% (e.g., at 35°C, Voc drops by approximately 2.9%). Conversely, at lower temperatures (e.g., 15°C), Voc increases by 2.9%. My calculations indicate that below 7°C (45°F), the system voltage could exceed the switch’s 48 Vdc rating. I installed the switch but will conduct further research and monitor it closely during cold weather.

The upper inset picture shows the 1/0 AWG wiring on the back of the battery disconnect, featuring an Ancor 90° tinned copper lug, necessary due to the battery cabinet’s front face being only inches away. The lower inset picture displays the factory Cerrowire 10 AWG wiring entering and the superior Ancor 6 AWG wire exiting.


The Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart shunt, a low-resistance (500A/50mV) device, measures current flow into and out of the battery bank by creating a small voltage drop proportional to the current. This enables accurate tracking of battery state of charge (SoC), voltage, current, power, and other parameters. The shunt is wired in series with the negative battery terminal, with a short 1/0 AWG cable connecting the battery’s negative terminal to the “Battery Only” side to minimize voltage drop. No other connections should be made on this side to ensure accurate measurements. All loads (e.g., fuse box, inverter, air compressor) and charging sources (e.g., solar charge controller, DC-DC) connect to the “Load and Charger” side via the Lynx negative busbar.


The battery box’s top holes were initially drilled using a 38mm hole saw, matching the Blue Sea Systems Feed-Through Connectors. Although I estimated sufficient space for the Ancor 90° lugs, the tight wiring made tool access difficult. I enlarged the holes to 52mm using another hole saw. To accurately center the larger hole over the existing one, I attached a scrap piece of wood as a backer plate and used the 38mm hole saw with a short bit to create a pilot hole. The 52mm hole saw with a longer bit then completed the task. Drilling the correct size initially would have been ideal, but the results were satisfactory, and I consider it a lesson learned.


While removing the MES-K470 (Modular Energy System with Zarges K470 case), I photographed the two different-sized rubber spacers mentioned in a previous post. To avoid struggling with their positioning, I secured them using 3M double-sided VHB tape. The lower-left inset picture shows the Zarges box underside with ten feed-through connectors and four fabricated aluminum C-channels.


The case is mounted with the battery and solar disconnects positioned underneath. While some builds include disconnects, they are often not in visible or convenient locations, which could be problematic in emergencies. I placed mine to be accessible yet not front-and-center, aligning with the Four Wheel Camper’s raised faceplate and hole from a removed switch, making this a practical choice for my setup.


Additional components are now operational. The top row, from left to right, includes the BMV-712 for battery state monitoring, the MPPT Controller for solar reporting, and the INKBIRD ITC-1000 for case internal temperature monitoring and Noctua PWM fan control. The next row features a Blue Sea Systems Accessory Panel displaying the main fuse box voltage, diesel tank level (in my HEMI truck), and camper interior temperature.


While disassembling the Four Wheel Camper’s wiring harness, I noticed numerous green wires, later identified as amber and red clearance light positive wires, along with associated grounds. I repurposed the Blue Sea Systems Common 100A Mini Bus Bar, added a cover, and ordered another covered mini busbar for the negatives. Note the orange line with a 5-amp fuse, powered by the truck’s running lights. The negative wires, still slightly long and using nylon ring terminals, will be shortened and upgraded to Ancor adhesive-lined heat-shrink ring terminals.


The Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block is installed, with essentials like lights and the refrigerator connected. The 4 AWG wire supplying the 100A fuse block appears unusual as it drops and curls but remains relaxed. A key lesson was underestimating the space larger wires require for turns and fastening. This suggests I may be better suited to mechanical rather than electrical design.


Receipts help track project costs. The Victron Energy RJ45 UTP cable was ordered in error; the BMV-712 required an RJ12 UTP of the same length, which was corrected without issue. The Ancor AWG 8 screw size #10 tinned copper lug, the smallest lug and hole size Ancor manufactures, was used to connect the AWG 8 wire to the National Luna Classic 80L refrigerator.


Despite recent heat and humidity, I’ve been living and working in my camper. As I prepared for sleep, I admired the colorful system and reflected on the energy flowing through it. This project has been enjoyable but time-consuming, primarily due to my own delays.

Nearing sixty, I feel older than I should, likely due to a “carefree, reckless, and self-destructive lifestyle” noted in a past military evaluation - a description I once took as a compliment. In my youth, I’d boldly approach women, claiming, “I’m one hundred sixty-two pounds of twistin’, turnin’ steel and massive sex appeal. I'm what every woman wants and every man wants to be!” Surgeries provided temporary relief, but the doctors were right: my body is breaking down faster than most. I’m grateful to be pursuing this project now and dream nightly of returning to the beauty, relaxation, and safety, of the mountains, forest, and desert.

I feel blessed to have experienced more than I deserve. My advice: if you’re dreaming of something, start now. Waiting too long may leave you looking back saying - and looking up I noticed I was late...

 

[ramblinChet]

I began planning this electronics upgrade long ago, aiming to optimize the power supply to my National Luna 80L Legacy refrigerator. This critical equipment runs continuously, so selecting the appropriate wire size is essential to minimize voltage drop and heat buildup for efficient power delivery. Previously, I used the factory-provided 11 AWG wire spliced into Cerrowire 10 AWG, which performed adequately. To improve efficiency, I shortened the 11 AWG section to a few feet and completed the run with Ancor 8 AWG wire. I used an Ancor Heat Shrink Step-Down connector (#320303) to create a secure mechanical crimp between one 12-10 AWG and one 8 AWG wire. The lower inset image highlights the optional National Luna Base Mounting Plate, which I consider indispensable for a robust installation.


The primary image, taken from above the rear of the refrigerator, shows three of my five Rotopax Two-Gallon Water GEN2 containers stored strategically. A key goal of this build was to center weight both laterally and longitudinally while keeping it low. A low, centered center-of-gravity enhances vehicle stability and control on challenging trails, improving handling, traction, and balance. This reduces stress on the suspension and chassis, increasing safety and performance in rugged conditions. The left inset image shows spare bumpers in use, while the right inset illustrates a 3/4" square scrap wood spacer placed alongside the 8 AWG wire to prevent the Rotopax containers from resting on and damaging it. Attention to these small details is critical.


The next image depicts the rear of the INKBIRD ITC-1000F Temperature Controller and its final wire connections. On the ground side, I spliced Ancor 16 AWG primary wire to Noctua 28 AWG wire to control two cooling fans. As I was unfamiliar with integrating INKBIRD and Noctua components, I used Wago 222-413 splicing connectors, which proved effective for this application. After completing each sub-project, I conduct a thorough visual inspection, followed by electrical checks, functional testing, and commissioning. My initial settings for the controller are: TS (Temperature Set) 104°F, DS (Difference Set) 4°F, CF (Celsius/Fahrenheit) set to Fahrenheit, and HC (Heating/Cooling) set to Cooling.


The Wallas Nordic DT diesel cooktop/heater, now installed, occupies significant space at the top of the setup. I’m pleased with my decision to shift it 100mm from its original position, creating a comfortable armrest area atop the MES-K470 system. This adjustment complicated the internal layout but was worthwhile. In a compact space, a well-designed armrest enhances comfort, supports ergonomics, and reduces strain on shoulders and arms, improving functionality and relaxation.


Another image shows the underside of the Wallas unit when the K470 top is lifted. As noted in earlier posts, I positioned the K470 away from the wall to promote cooling and enhance aesthetics, making the compact area appear larger. I calculated that, with the vehicle within one degree of level along the roll axis, the top would remain open without needing to be held, confirmed through sketches, center-of-gravity calculations, and a physical test. The image also shows two 20 x 20 x 400mm T-slotted aluminum extruded bars, which provide a clamping surface and additional support for the 26-pound Wallas unit.


With warm weather approaching, I decided to stress-test the system in high heat. I set the TS to 104°F because this is the temperature at which my Victron Energy components begin derating output current to prevent overheating. The INKBIRD ITC-1000F in the upper right displays the MES-K470 system’s internal temperature, while the Blue Sea Systems accessory panel below shows the camper’s internal temperature.


Switching focus, I’ve started building a permanent mount for my air system, using aluminum for its high strength-to-weight ratio, natural corrosion resistance, and ease of fabrication. Aluminum ensures structural integrity in extreme conditions and enhances durability in harsh environments. Maintaining a vehicle below its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is critical for safety, performance, and longevity, reducing strain on the chassis, suspension, brakes, and tires while improving handling, fuel efficiency, and traction on uneven terrain.


The air system mount was designed using off-the-shelf materials, requiring only drilling and bolting - no cutting, bending, or welding. Adhering to Occam’s Razor, I prioritized a simple, efficient design that minimizes components, complexity, and potential failure points while meeting performance requirements. The assembly consists of two aluminum sheets, four square corner posts, four lengths of all-thread, four aluminum spacers, and a handful of nuts and washers. With careful planning, accurate layout, and incremental drilling, this design is accessible to others.


I’m documenting expenses to maintain a digital record. While not the most exciting part of the project, this is necessary for my planning, and I’m working to streamline this information. Thank you for your understanding.


After dinner, I enjoy walking at Yorktown Beach to stretch and exercise. Spending hours in a hot camper, working and dreaming of returning to the trail, requires significant self-discipline. Often, I reflect on the freedom of roaming the west, sleeping in deserts, forests, and mountains. Freedom is just another word for nothin' left to lose...

 

[ramblinChet]

In my previous post, some readers may have noticed that the stud on the neoprene vibration-damping sandwich mount was just short of full engagement with the nylon-insert locknut, a condition I typically avoid. Under load, the bolt stretches while the nut compresses, distributing force across the threads - typically 34% on the first thread, followed by 23%, 16%, 11%, 8%, and 7% for subsequent threads. Thread classes, such as 1A, 2B, and 3C, define fit and application. Class 1A offers a loose fit for non-critical assemblies like general machinery, prioritizing easy installation. Class 2B provides a medium fit, ideal for standard applications like automotive components, balancing strength and ease. Class 3C, with its tight, precise fit, suits high-stress environments like aerospace, where minimal play and vibration resistance are critical. In this case, the stud and nut were Class 2B, suitable for the application’s balance of strength and assembly requirements.


While upgrading my AEV Prospector and Four Wheel Camper, I optimized the layout by grouping related gear and conducting an ABC analysis. Group A includes high-value, frequently used items critical to operations. Group B comprises moderately important items used regularly but not daily, while Group C consists of low-value, rarely used items stored in deep storage. My goal was to relocate the Longacre Racing Magnum 3½" Tire Pressure Gauge from the cab to a spot near the air compressor. I sourced an aluminum gauge holder from Extreme Max and mounted it on the wall adjacent to the compressor. The inset picture confirms the gauge remains accessible even when the camper’s top is closed.


I explored Extreme Max’s website to identify additional aluminum components for my setup. Their wall-mounted aluminum paper towel holder caught my attention, as it saves time and frees up space in my Zarges K470 aluminum box. Many companies in the overland and RV industry rely on heavy or space-inefficient materials like wood or fiberglass, which have limited temperature tolerances. Aluminum, in my view, is superior for its durability, lightweight properties, and versatility in such applications.


Previously, I stored my two power cords in the battery compartment, now occupied by two LiFePO4 batteries, Ancor 1/0 AWG wiring, and Blue Sea Systems feed-throughs. Despite careful wrapping, the cords often became tangled. To address this, I installed an Extreme Max aluminum cord hanger in an underutilized, oddly shaped storage compartment on the starboard side, just inside the vehicle’s rear door. This setup maximizes accessibility and optimizes space. Initially, I considered mounting the hanger on the door, but the cords’ weight exceeded the door’s hinge capacity. Photos show the setup with the door closed (left) and open (right).


Due to high daytime temperatures, much of my work occurs at night. At 0315, after completing the final wiring, I powered up the Wallas Nordic DT cooktop/heater for the first time. The Wallas control panel, visible in the lower right corner of the photo, illuminated, confirming the electrical system’s functionality. This milestone moves my one step closer to ensuring reliable heating and cooking capabilities for my setup.


An Ashcroft pressure gauge is integral to my onboard air system. Selecting it required a full day due to the extensive customization options, including dial sizes (2.5", 3.5", 4.5", 6.0"), connection types, pressure ranges (0-160 PSI), and wetted materials like stainless steel or Monel.


As a professional who values precision, I chose a 63mm (2.5") dial, model 1008, with a 304 stainless steel case, 316 stainless steel tube and connection, glycerin-filled case, 1/4" NPT male lower connection, and a 0-160 PSI range. For those needing even higher accuracy, Ashcroft-Heise ultra-high-precision mechanical gauges are an excellent alternative.


I maintain detailed invoices to track expenses and reference them for future projects. This practice aids in planning upgrades or maintenance for my vehicle and camper setup.


In November 2023, while navigating the Organs Loop trail near Las Cruces, NM, at night, I struck a large rock, dislodging the harmonic balancer from my rear driveshaft. I temporarily secured it with zip ties, keeping it clear of the pinion yoke. Today, I removed and discarded the damaged balancer, resolving the issue permanently.


In February 2023, I purchased Masterlock M115XTRILF Laminated Padlocks, expecting reliable performance. However, the weather-resistant keyway covers, designed to protect against snow, rain, dirt, and grime, have been problematic - one broke off, and another fails to stay closed. Despite this, the locks remain functional after cleaning with a pick, toothbrush, vacuum, and penetrating lubricant. Their durability, much like my own resilience, ensures they perform even in harsh conditions. Much like this relentlessly defiant lock, I was never quite tamed...