2021 RAM 3500 Tradesman | AEV Prospector | FWC Grandby

[ramblinChet]

The Noctua NA-FC1 is a compact controller designed for 4-pin PWM fans, enabling manual speed adjustment. By turning the NA-FC1’s speed control dial, users can set a PWM duty cycle from 0% to 100%. When the INKBIRD ITC-1000 Temperature Controller detects excessive heat inside the K470, it signals the NA-FC1 to activate both fans at the pre-set speed. This system is experimental, and I plan to test it under various conditions to determine the optimal fan speed settings.

The NA-FC1 controller is compact, measuring approximately 1.5 inches in length, and lacks mounting holes or tabs. To secure it, I used 3M VHB (Very High Bond) 5952 tape, which can support up to 80 pounds per square inch in static shear. For this application, I considered the dynamic load and applied a safety factor of approximately 4:1, meaning one square inch of tape can reliably hold a 15–20-pound object.


To track expenses for this project, I am documenting all purchases. These include the 3M VHB 5952 tape, a 21mm hole saw used to cut an opening for the Sealcon cable gland (referenced in my previous post), a 67mm hole saw, and several 1/0 AWG lugs and ring terminals.


I used the 67mm hole saw to drill a precise hole in the battery box beneath the K470 case for mounting a Blue Sea Systems Manual Battery Switch. This switch allows me to isolate the battery bank from other electronics during maintenance or emergencies. Drilling this hole was challenging because I was enlarging an existing hole, leaving no material to guide the pilot bit.

The accompanying image illustrates how I addressed this challenge: I used a scrap piece of wood as a backer to guide the pilot drill. After identifying the center of the existing hole and drilling alignment holes, I attached the backer, drilled a pilot hole to guide the hole saw, and created a perfectly centered hole in the battery box.


After drilling the hole, I test-fitted the battery switch and planned the placement of its four mounting holes. The 67mm hole, as specified by Blue Sea Systems, left a 1mm gap around the switch. To center it precisely, I folded two strips of thin cardboard and inserted them evenly around the switch’s circumference, acting as flexible spacers to ensure perfect alignment.


Additional expenses include socket head bolts and screws for mounting the battery switch. I also purchased two extra screws to prepare for installing the Victron Energy BMV-712 Battery Monitor shunt in the battery box.


The Ancor Premium Battery Cable Stripper (703075) is designed to strip cables from 8 to 4/0 AWG, making it essential for this project. Its adjustable head optimizes blade depth for cutting through insulation, and a lever rotates the blade 90 degrees to remove the insulation efficiently in one motion.


For this project, I chose the Ancor 8 to 1/0 AWG Hex Lug Crimper, which has consistently produced reliable crimps. Measuring 15.4 inches, it fits easily in my tool bag, making it highly portable. Ancor offers a larger crimper for 8 to 4/0 AWG, but at 24.4 inches, it was unnecessary, as my calculations confirmed that 1/0 AWG wire meets the project’s requirements. The accompanying images show a precise crimp and finished wires with heat shrink tubing. I used Ancor marine-grade wire, tinned copper lugs, and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing to ensure durability. My goal is to build a safe, cost-effective system, as substandard connections between premium components create vulnerabilities, much like weak links in a chain.


Balancing a new battery bank before use is essential for optimal performance, longevity, and safety. Batteries should have identical voltage and capacity, ideally from the same manufacturer and batch. To balance them, follow these steps: First, fully charge each battery and let it rest for several hours, disconnected from chargers or loads. Next, use a multimeter to verify that the open-circuit voltages are within 0.1V of each other. Then, connect the batteries in parallel using cables of identical length and gauge to ensure equal resistance and current sharing. Allow the connected batteries to rest for 12–24 hours, then integrate them into the system and charge them once more before use. The accompanying images show the open-circuit voltages for each battery before connection.


For this project, I repurposed a 6–7-year-old Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor previously used in my Jeep. I cleaned areas with corrosion, circled in red in the accompanying images, using a Dremel and abrasive bit to eliminate resistance in the battery bank’s main circuit. The BMV-712 provides real-time monitoring of battery state of charge, voltage, current, and energy consumption via its built-in Bluetooth and VictronConnect app, enabling optimized battery usage and protection against over-discharging.


To mount the BMV-712 on a ¾-inch-thick exterior wall, I aimed to maximize screw depth without penetrating the outer surface. I measured carefully, selected appropriate screws, and prepared to drill pilot holes to the optimal depth. Since I needed only two holes and had #10 flat washers available, I fashioned an adjustable drill depth gauge to ensure precision. One of the best things about working for yourself is you get to call the shots and go your own way...

 

[ramblinChet]

After installing the Blue Sea Systems Battery Switch (#6006), I evaluated using the Benedikt & Jäger LS series DC disconnect switch I had previously purchased as a solar disconnect. My primary concern was its size, as space was limited. This led me to explore using another battery switch to disconnect the solar panels. My two RICH Solar MEGA 250 panels have an Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) of 22.8 Vdc, which, when wired in series, results in a system Voc of 45.6 Vdc at Standard Test Conditions (25°C or 77°F). This is significant because the BSS #6006 has a maximum voltage rating of 48 Vdc and 300 amps continuous, while the panels have a temperature coefficient of -0.29%/°C. For every degree Celsius above 25°C, the Voc decreases by 0.29% (e.g., at 35°C, Voc drops by approximately 2.9%). Conversely, at lower temperatures (e.g., 15°C), Voc increases by 2.9%. My calculations indicate that below 7°C (45°F), the system voltage could exceed the switch’s 48 Vdc rating. I installed the switch but will conduct further research and monitor it closely during cold weather.

The upper inset picture shows the 1/0 AWG wiring on the back of the battery disconnect, featuring an Ancor 90° tinned copper lug, necessary due to the battery cabinet’s front face being only inches away. The lower inset picture displays the factory Cerrowire 10 AWG wiring entering and the superior Ancor 6 AWG wire exiting.


The Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart shunt, a low-resistance (500A/50mV) device, measures current flow into and out of the battery bank by creating a small voltage drop proportional to the current. This enables accurate tracking of battery state of charge (SoC), voltage, current, power, and other parameters. The shunt is wired in series with the negative battery terminal, with a short 1/0 AWG cable connecting the battery’s negative terminal to the “Battery Only” side to minimize voltage drop. No other connections should be made on this side to ensure accurate measurements. All loads (e.g., fuse box, inverter, air compressor) and charging sources (e.g., solar charge controller, DC-DC) connect to the “Load and Charger” side via the Lynx negative busbar.


The battery box’s top holes were initially drilled using a 38mm hole saw, matching the Blue Sea Systems Feed-Through Connectors. Although I estimated sufficient space for the Ancor 90° lugs, the tight wiring made tool access difficult. I enlarged the holes to 52mm using another hole saw. To accurately center the larger hole over the existing one, I attached a scrap piece of wood as a backer plate and used the 38mm hole saw with a short bit to create a pilot hole. The 52mm hole saw with a longer bit then completed the task. Drilling the correct size initially would have been ideal, but the results were satisfactory, and I consider it a lesson learned.


While removing the MES-K470 (Modular Energy System with Zarges K470 case), I photographed the two different-sized rubber spacers mentioned in a previous post. To avoid struggling with their positioning, I secured them using 3M double-sided VHB tape. The lower-left inset picture shows the Zarges box underside with ten feed-through connectors and four fabricated aluminum C-channels.


The case is mounted with the battery and solar disconnects positioned underneath. While some builds include disconnects, they are often not in visible or convenient locations, which could be problematic in emergencies. I placed mine to be accessible yet not front-and-center, aligning with the Four Wheel Camper’s raised faceplate and hole from a removed switch, making this a practical choice for my setup.


Additional components are now operational. The top row, from left to right, includes the BMV-712 for battery state monitoring, the MPPT Controller for solar reporting, and the INKBIRD ITC-1000 for case internal temperature monitoring and Noctua PWM fan control. The next row features a Blue Sea Systems Accessory Panel displaying the main fuse box voltage, diesel tank level (in my HEMI truck), and camper interior temperature.


While disassembling the Four Wheel Camper’s wiring harness, I noticed numerous green wires, later identified as amber and red clearance light positive wires, along with associated grounds. I repurposed the Blue Sea Systems Common 100A Mini Bus Bar, added a cover, and ordered another covered mini busbar for the negatives. Note the orange line with a 5-amp fuse, powered by the truck’s running lights. The negative wires, still slightly long and using nylon ring terminals, will be shortened and upgraded to Ancor adhesive-lined heat-shrink ring terminals.


The Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block is installed, with essentials like lights and the refrigerator connected. The 4 AWG wire supplying the 100A fuse block appears unusual as it drops and curls but remains relaxed. A key lesson was underestimating the space larger wires require for turns and fastening. This suggests I may be better suited to mechanical rather than electrical design.


Receipts help track project costs. The Victron Energy RJ45 UTP cable was ordered in error; the BMV-712 required an RJ12 UTP of the same length, which was corrected without issue. The Ancor AWG 8 screw size #10 tinned copper lug, the smallest lug and hole size Ancor manufactures, was used to connect the AWG 8 wire to the National Luna Classic 80L refrigerator.


Despite recent heat and humidity, I’ve been living and working in my camper. As I prepared for sleep, I admired the colorful system and reflected on the energy flowing through it. This project has been enjoyable but time-consuming, primarily due to my own delays.

Nearing sixty, I feel older than I should, likely due to a “carefree, reckless, and self-destructive lifestyle” noted in a past military evaluation - a description I once took as a compliment. In my youth, I’d boldly approach women, claiming, “I’m one hundred sixty-two pounds of twistin’, turnin’ steel and massive sex appeal. I'm what every woman wants and every man wants to be!” Surgeries provided temporary relief, but the doctors were right: my body is breaking down faster than most. I’m grateful to be pursuing this project now and dream nightly of returning to the beauty, relaxation, and safety, of the mountains, forest, and desert.

I feel blessed to have experienced more than I deserve. My advice: if you’re dreaming of something, start now. Waiting too long may leave you looking back saying - and looking up I noticed I was late...

 

[ramblinChet]

I began planning this electronics upgrade long ago, aiming to optimize the power supply to my National Luna 80L Legacy refrigerator. This critical equipment runs continuously, so selecting the appropriate wire size is essential to minimize voltage drop and heat buildup for efficient power delivery. Previously, I used the factory-provided 11 AWG wire spliced into Cerrowire 10 AWG, which performed adequately. To improve efficiency, I shortened the 11 AWG section to a few feet and completed the run with Ancor 8 AWG wire. I used an Ancor Heat Shrink Step-Down connector (#320303) to create a secure mechanical crimp between one 12-10 AWG and one 8 AWG wire. The lower inset image highlights the optional National Luna Base Mounting Plate, which I consider indispensable for a robust installation.


The primary image, taken from above the rear of the refrigerator, shows three of my five Rotopax Two-Gallon Water GEN2 containers stored strategically. A key goal of this build was to center weight both laterally and longitudinally while keeping it low. A low, centered center-of-gravity enhances vehicle stability and control on challenging trails, improving handling, traction, and balance. This reduces stress on the suspension and chassis, increasing safety and performance in rugged conditions. The left inset image shows spare bumpers in use, while the right inset illustrates a 3/4" square scrap wood spacer placed alongside the 8 AWG wire to prevent the Rotopax containers from resting on and damaging it. Attention to these small details is critical.


The next image depicts the rear of the INKBIRD ITC-1000F Temperature Controller and its final wire connections. On the ground side, I spliced Ancor 16 AWG primary wire to Noctua 28 AWG wire to control two cooling fans. As I was unfamiliar with integrating INKBIRD and Noctua components, I used Wago 222-413 splicing connectors, which proved effective for this application. After completing each sub-project, I conduct a thorough visual inspection, followed by electrical checks, functional testing, and commissioning. My initial settings for the controller are: TS (Temperature Set) 104°F, DS (Difference Set) 4°F, CF (Celsius/Fahrenheit) set to Fahrenheit, and HC (Heating/Cooling) set to Cooling.


The Wallas Nordic DT diesel cooktop/heater, now installed, occupies significant space at the top of the setup. I’m pleased with my decision to shift it 100mm from its original position, creating a comfortable armrest area atop the MES-K470 system. This adjustment complicated the internal layout but was worthwhile. In a compact space, a well-designed armrest enhances comfort, supports ergonomics, and reduces strain on shoulders and arms, improving functionality and relaxation.


Another image shows the underside of the Wallas unit when the K470 top is lifted. As noted in earlier posts, I positioned the K470 away from the wall to promote cooling and enhance aesthetics, making the compact area appear larger. I calculated that, with the vehicle within one degree of level along the roll axis, the top would remain open without needing to be held, confirmed through sketches, center-of-gravity calculations, and a physical test. The image also shows two 20 x 20 x 400mm T-slotted aluminum extruded bars, which provide a clamping surface and additional support for the 26-pound Wallas unit.


With warm weather approaching, I decided to stress-test the system in high heat. I set the TS to 104°F because this is the temperature at which my Victron Energy components begin derating output current to prevent overheating. The INKBIRD ITC-1000F in the upper right displays the MES-K470 system’s internal temperature, while the Blue Sea Systems accessory panel below shows the camper’s internal temperature.


Switching focus, I’ve started building a permanent mount for my air system, using aluminum for its high strength-to-weight ratio, natural corrosion resistance, and ease of fabrication. Aluminum ensures structural integrity in extreme conditions and enhances durability in harsh environments. Maintaining a vehicle below its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is critical for safety, performance, and longevity, reducing strain on the chassis, suspension, brakes, and tires while improving handling, fuel efficiency, and traction on uneven terrain.


The air system mount was designed using off-the-shelf materials, requiring only drilling and bolting - no cutting, bending, or welding. Adhering to Occam’s Razor, I prioritized a simple, efficient design that minimizes components, complexity, and potential failure points while meeting performance requirements. The assembly consists of two aluminum sheets, four square corner posts, four lengths of all-thread, four aluminum spacers, and a handful of nuts and washers. With careful planning, accurate layout, and incremental drilling, this design is accessible to others.


I’m documenting expenses to maintain a digital record. While not the most exciting part of the project, this is necessary for my planning, and I’m working to streamline this information. Thank you for your understanding.


After dinner, I enjoy walking at Yorktown Beach to stretch and exercise. Spending hours in a hot camper, working and dreaming of returning to the trail, requires significant self-discipline. Often, I reflect on the freedom of roaming the west, sleeping in deserts, forests, and mountains. Freedom is just another word for nothin' left to lose...

 

[ramblinChet]

In my previous post, some readers may have noticed that the stud on the neoprene vibration-damping sandwich mount was just short of full engagement with the nylon-insert locknut, a condition I typically avoid. Under load, the bolt stretches while the nut compresses, distributing force across the threads - typically 34% on the first thread, followed by 23%, 16%, 11%, 8%, and 7% for subsequent threads. Thread classes, such as 1A, 2B, and 3C, define fit and application. Class 1A offers a loose fit for non-critical assemblies like general machinery, prioritizing easy installation. Class 2B provides a medium fit, ideal for standard applications like automotive components, balancing strength and ease. Class 3C, with its tight, precise fit, suits high-stress environments like aerospace, where minimal play and vibration resistance are critical. In this case, the stud and nut were Class 2B, suitable for the application’s balance of strength and assembly requirements.


While upgrading my AEV Prospector and Four Wheel Camper, I optimized the layout by grouping related gear and conducting an ABC analysis. Group A includes high-value, frequently used items critical to operations. Group B comprises moderately important items used regularly but not daily, while Group C consists of low-value, rarely used items stored in deep storage. My goal was to relocate the Longacre Racing Magnum 3½" Tire Pressure Gauge from the cab to a spot near the air compressor. I sourced an aluminum gauge holder from Extreme Max and mounted it on the wall adjacent to the compressor. The inset picture confirms the gauge remains accessible even when the camper’s top is closed.


I explored Extreme Max’s website to identify additional aluminum components for my setup. Their wall-mounted aluminum paper towel holder caught my attention, as it saves time and frees up space in my Zarges K470 aluminum box. Many companies in the overland and RV industry rely on heavy or space-inefficient materials like wood or fiberglass, which have limited temperature tolerances. Aluminum, in my view, is superior for its durability, lightweight properties, and versatility in such applications.


Previously, I stored my two power cords in the battery compartment, now occupied by two LiFePO4 batteries, Ancor 1/0 AWG wiring, and Blue Sea Systems feed-throughs. Despite careful wrapping, the cords often became tangled. To address this, I installed an Extreme Max aluminum cord hanger in an underutilized, oddly shaped storage compartment on the starboard side, just inside the vehicle’s rear door. This setup maximizes accessibility and optimizes space. Initially, I considered mounting the hanger on the door, but the cords’ weight exceeded the door’s hinge capacity. Photos show the setup with the door closed (left) and open (right).


Due to high daytime temperatures, much of my work occurs at night. At 0315, after completing the final wiring, I powered up the Wallas Nordic DT cooktop/heater for the first time. The Wallas control panel, visible in the lower right corner of the photo, illuminated, confirming the electrical system’s functionality. This milestone moves my one step closer to ensuring reliable heating and cooking capabilities for my setup.


An Ashcroft pressure gauge is integral to my onboard air system. Selecting it required a full day due to the extensive customization options, including dial sizes (2.5", 3.5", 4.5", 6.0"), connection types, pressure ranges (0-160 PSI), and wetted materials like stainless steel or Monel.


As a professional who values precision, I chose a 63mm (2.5") dial, model 1008, with a 304 stainless steel case, 316 stainless steel tube and connection, glycerin-filled case, 1/4" NPT male lower connection, and a 0-160 PSI range. For those needing even higher accuracy, Ashcroft-Heise ultra-high-precision mechanical gauges are an excellent alternative.


I maintain detailed invoices to track expenses and reference them for future projects. This practice aids in planning upgrades or maintenance for my vehicle and camper setup.


In November 2023, while navigating the Organs Loop trail near Las Cruces, NM, at night, I struck a large rock, dislodging the harmonic balancer from my rear driveshaft. I temporarily secured it with zip ties, keeping it clear of the pinion yoke. Today, I removed and discarded the damaged balancer, resolving the issue permanently.


In February 2023, I purchased Masterlock M115XTRILF Laminated Padlocks, expecting reliable performance. However, the weather-resistant keyway covers, designed to protect against snow, rain, dirt, and grime, have been problematic - one broke off, and another fails to stay closed. Despite this, the locks remain functional after cleaning with a pick, toothbrush, vacuum, and penetrating lubricant. Their durability, much like my own resilience, ensures they perform even in harsh conditions. Much like this relentlessly defiant lock, I was never quite tamed...

 

[ramblinChet]

Continuing from my previous post, the aluminum hose hanger is the fourth and final component from Extreme Max installed in my camper. The installation took longer than anticipated because I wanted to trim the back panel to align flush with the front panel’s lip. Additionally, I ordered and cut a piece of 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8-inch aluminum angle stock for mounting. Using masking tape, an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, and a hand file, I was pleased with the straightness of the final result.


The modified hose hanger is mounted on the side of my air assembly, as shown in the accompanying picture. By co-locating related equipment, I’ve improved workflow efficiency, enhanced safety, reduced operational errors, and optimized space utilization. The hanger includes a small compartment that conveniently stores my two sets of brass tire deflators (15 & 30 PSI).


Some time ago, the sliding clear bubble on my camper’s screen door cracked and eventually failed, leaving a large hole that allowed insects to enter on warm nights when the interior lights were on. Recently, while cutting the top of my Zarges K470 aluminum case to install a diesel cooktop/heater, I saved the scrap piece for potential reuse. Using masking tape to mark the cutting areas, I employed an angle grinder, punched a finger-sized hole with a hole saw, and cleaned the edges to create a new screen door slider panel. The inset picture illustrates my creative approach during the cutting process: I placed a recently removed AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery on the thin aluminum scrap to hold it steady. While not a professional method, it was simple and effective for this one-time task.


Historically, maintaining a small circle of close friends has been vital for men, providing essential emotional and social support across cultures and eras. From ancient philosophers like Aristotle, who emphasized deep friendships for a virtuous life, to medieval guilds and modern military brotherhoods, these trusted circles have consistently countered isolation, reduced stress, and improved mental health and longevity. Whether through gatherings at taverns, coffee houses, or events like a Warriors’ Feast, these bonds - built on trust and shared experiences - offer a sense of belonging and purpose. They help men navigate life transitions such as retirement or loss, a practice that remains crucial today despite challenges like digital and societal isolation. Consider setting aside an evening, inviting a few friends over, firing up the grill, and enjoying meaningful connection.


One of the weakest components in my Four Wheel Camper has been the OEM Maxxair Maxxfan, which failed shortly after I began using a 200-watt solar suitcase to charge my house battery. Although the unit was a few months out of warranty, I contacted Maxxair, who explained that their DC fans can only handle a maximum voltage of 13.6 Vdc before the main circuit board fails. I noted that most RVs and campers use solar systems that commonly produce 14.2–14.4 Vdc. Maxxair offered a replacement circuit board for $150 but suggested purchasing a new unit for $350 due to additional issues with their DC motors. A quick search for “Maxxair fan problem” reveals numerous videos and customer complaints. Inspired by one such video, I bypassed the circuit board entirely and installed a DC Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) motor speed controller for just $10. This solution uses a rocker switch to control fan direction (IN/OFF/OUT) and a rotary knob to adjust speed (OFF/0–100%), and I’m satisfied with the result.


All expenses related to these modifications are being documented for historical reference, ensuring a clear record of costs and components.


With my Modular Energy System (MES-K470) largely complete, I’ve shifted focus to the onboard air system. Over the past month, I’ve refined the system through several iterations, addressing challenges related to air transfer from the compressor to the tank and ultimately to the tires. Additionally, I’ve considered the wiring for main power and control to ensure a durable, organized, and visually clean system. As discussed in a previous post, I selected an Ashcroft pressure gauge, supported by components from Milton and Parker. The top-tier components were assembled and sealed with Loctite 565 before marking and drilling holes to connect the tank to the compressor below.


The accompanying picture shows two vertical brass Parker pipes and one Milton 1144M mini micro filter passing through the top tier after drilling. This filter was chosen using Milton’s F-R-L (Filter-Regulator-Lubricator) Application Chart, which accounts for compressor horsepower (HP) and standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM). Removing moisture and contaminants remains important, even though I don’t plan to use the system for powering tools. In the upper right corner, you can see the Milton ASME Safety Valve (150 PSI). The inset picture provides an oblique view of two of the drilled holes.


The next step involved preparing the lower tier of the air system to secure the heat-dissipation hose, which connects the compressor to the tank, using vibration-damping loop clamps. Initially, I considered multiple hose routing options and waited until most components were in place to finalize the configuration. With the system largely assembled, limited vertical space prevented the use of a standard drill motor. Rather than disassembling the system to drill four holes, I purchased an inexpensive angle-drill fitting from Harbor Freight Tools. Given my age and the one-time need for this tool, it was a cost-effective choice that performed well.


The heat-dissipation hose, shown in the accompanying picture, is installed in a relaxed configuration to optimize three modes of heat transfer: conduction, convection, and radiation. During air compression, molecular friction and compression heat the air, warming the hose. Made of thermally conductive metallic material, the hose conducts this heat to its surface. Ambient air then absorbs the heat through convection, cooling the compressed air before it reaches the tank. Additionally, the hose emits thermal radiation (infrared energy), though this contributes less than conduction and convection. The hose’s surface temperature and emissivity determine the rate of radiative heat transfer.

The highlighted sections in the upper-center of the picture show the electronic blow-off valve (left) and high-temperature check valve (right). The blow-off valve automatically releases cylinder head pressure when the compressor reaches its upper cutoff (145 PSI), reducing inrush amperage, bearing stress, and enabling zero-pressure startups. The check valve prevents tank and line pressure from flowing back into the depressurized head. You can do anything you set your mind to, man...

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I have the same compressor, its a beast 10/10 recommend the product and company.

 

[Spencer for Hire]

You have great skills. How many people camp in there and do you have dogs with you? I an trying to figure out strategies to utilize camper and dogs. Thank You.

 

[ramblinChet]

You have great skills. How many people camp in there and do you have dogs with you? I an trying to figure out strategies to utilize camper and dogs. Thank You.

Thank you for your kind words - I'm just a normal guy like you. I travel solo with no dogs although the camper could easily support two adults and possibly a child. The bed is certainly large enough but the interior quickly becomes congested with two or more adults and if you step to a smaller camper (6.5') compared to mine (8') or if it is built out with the factory stove, sink, fridge, etc., things become a squeeze.

Many people do travel with dogs and I suspect their primary issues relate to maintaining a comfortable temperature inside on warm days. Keep in mind that depending upon how much sun exposure your camper is receiving it can easily be 10-15 °F higher inside when compared to the outside temperature and that's with all windows open and the roof fan on high. Climbing in and out would be a challenge also. Good luck and happy trails!

 

[ramblinChet]

When operating my ExtremeAire Magnum air compressor at 100 PSI, literature states it's 1.5 HP motor draws 82 amps at 12 volts - I plan to operate the system at 145 PSI and expect to see 85-90 amps being drawn. To accommodate the increased demand, I upgraded the lugs on the dual 10 AWG wires from the compressor. Connecting two 10 AWG wires into a single lug was challenging. After research and calculations, I determined that an Ancor 8 AWG lug was sufficient, though a 6 AWG lug provided ample room. As shown below, a single 8 AWG lug worked effectively. Note that the positive lug uses a 5/16" mounting hole, while the negative uses a 3/8" hole, with the reason for this difference illustrated in the next image.


In the upper right, the dual positive wires with an 8 AWG 5/16" lug connect to a post on a Pollak solenoid (52-31525). In the lower right, the dual negative wires with an 8 AWG 3/8" lug connect to a Blue Sea Systems Power Post Connector. When selecting solenoids, note that many share an identical external appearance but vary in configuration: 12 or 24 volts, and relay (continuous duty) or starter solenoid (intermittent duty). A quick rule for 12-volt solenoids: a coil measuring 3–5 ohms indicates a starter solenoid, while 15–20 ohms indicates a relay. My solenoid measured 18 ohms, confirming suitability for my application. The inset image shows four bolt heads near the center, which are the mounts for the solenoid and power post. I considered mounting them on the external wall but opted for internal mounting to facilitate removal or repair with the camper in the truck bed, ensuring quick troubleshooting during trail use.


Visiting local libraries can be highly beneficial, whether at home or on the road. I periodically stop by a library, reserve a meeting room if available, and work for a few hours, taking advantage of reliable WiFi, air conditioning, and clean restrooms. For full-time travelers, the value of these public resources is immediately apparent, providing a comfortable and productive environment for technical tasks or project planning.


Initially, I planned to run 4 AWG wire, as recommended by ExtremeAire, from the driver’s side battery bank, over the rear door, and down to the compressor shelf on the passenger side. This exposed wiring aligned with my function-over-form interior design. However, calculations revealed a voltage loss of nearly 7%, which was unacceptable. Using surplus 1/0 AWG wire, I reduced the voltage loss to under 3%, making it the preferred choice.

Further analysis led to a shorter wiring path under the door threshold. Running the wire outside and back inside was feasible, but I sought a cleaner solution. I discovered that the Four Wheel Camper (FWC) already used one channel in the threshold for wiring. To accommodate the 1/0 AWG wire, I ordered two new thresholds from FWC, cut the angled nose off one, and installed them side by side, creating four channels: one for existing FWC wiring and two for the compressor power wires.


Drilling 21mm holes on each side for the power wires was completed late one night. Using 1/0 AWG wire may seem excessive, but minimizing voltage loss enhances motor performance, increases efficiency, reduces heat, extends motor life, stabilizes operation, and yields long-term cost savings. My problem-solving approach followed these steps: (1) define the problem, (2) gather and analyze data, (3) develop and evaluate solutions, (4) implement the solution, and (5) test and verify.


The existing FWC wiring loom was identified during this process. The inset image shows the modified threshold with the angled nose removed during installation. Note the wood discoloration, likely from flooding during a river crossing one or two years ago, indicating a need for a heavy-duty cleaning solution to address potential mold or contamination.


The installation process, conducted at 0330 one morning, involved running the 1/0 AWG wires across the threshold. Space constraints are a common challenge in FWC campers, as any owner can attest. The image shows my 10–15-year-old Bosch 1942 heat gun, drawing 14.3 amps and producing 750–1,000°F, depending on the setting - a reliable tool for the task.


The result is a clean, OEM-like solution that delivers ample power to the onboard air system. Initially, I considered an exposed wiring setup, similar to military vehicles or aircraft. However, after developing my MES-K470 (Modular Energy System with Zarges K470 case) containing Victron Energy components, I prioritized concealed wiring for a clean, orderly appearance. This approach was more challenging but highly rewarding.


All expenses are tracked for historical purposes. When contacting FWC, I spoke with a knowledgeable parts department representative who quickly understood my needs. After a brief email exchange, payment was processed, and the parts were shipped. The ability to order identical components from the original build is a significant advantage.


While returning from the Richmond VA Medical Center via backroads, I stopped to relax at Chickahominy Riverfront Park. There, I took a moment to unwind, reflecting deeply on my life, past decisions, and current circumstances. Despite the hot, muggy weather and intense sunlight, I found myself smiling broadly, dreaming of hitting the road again soon. I urge other men to prioritize health by scheduling a doctor’s visit. For the past one or two decades, I often claimed to be “too busy” or promised to “schedule an appointment soon.” I've long since retired and my sons moved away, I recognize the importance of proactive health management.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

" I urge other men to prioritize health by scheduling a doctor’s visit. "

Such fantastic advice, I also should follow...

 

[COAKXterra]

" I urge other men to prioritize health by scheduling a doctor’s visit. "

Such fantastic advice, I also should follow...

Luckily my wife prioritizes me prioritizing it.

“Did you schedule your (insert dr here)?”

Annual dr, FAA dr, and dermotologist
Twice annual dentist

Not saying I’m the healthiest I’ve ever been, but at least I’ve got some good eyes on it with me. 😂

 

[ramblinChet]

My goal with the next few posts is twofold: to archive valuable information produced by AEV fifteen years ago and to share fundamental suspension knowledge. This will help others better understand what distinguishes AEV’s suspension systems from others in the industry.

12 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT “LIFTED” SUSPENSION ENGINEERING​

1 - Roll-Center Geometry

Roll-center is the imaginary point around which the body leans in a turn and also around which it moves when the suspension flexes on a trail. There is one roll-center each for the front and rear suspensions. The location of each roll-center for most solid-axle suspensions is defined by the geometry of the track-bars (aka panhard bars). On late-model solid-axle Jeeps, the front track-bar runs in front of the axle from the frame on the driver’s side to the axle on the passenger’s side. The rear bar is behind the axle and the attachments are reversed. The actual roll-center is found by drawing an imaginary vertical line down the middle of the vehicle and another straight line between the bolts at the ends of the track bar (ignore the bends in the bar). The intersection of these two lines is the roll-center.

Roll-center is important to suspension engineers because its correct placement relative to the center of gravity is central to managing both body lean and weight transfer in turns. The farther apart the roll-center from the center of gravity, the more lean you have and the more handling degrades. If the roll center location is not ideal for the vehicle, it forces the engineer to try to ‘correct’ the problem with spring and/or shock tuning – which always results in a loss of performance somewhere else. This is one of the critical geometry parameters that must be right before you tune, or lift, the vehicle. When properly located relative to the center of gravity the roll-centers (defined by track bar placement) will allow the engineer to further optimize overall suspension performance via springs and shocks, etc. – without the burden of having to attempt to compensate for poor geometry. If one looks at the track-arm locations on AEV JK suspension systems, one will see that both the front and rear track-arms have been significantly repositioned to place the roll-centers in the optimal locations for either 3.5 or 4.5-inch lift heights.

2 - Control-Arm Geometry

Control-arms are the links in the suspension that connect the axles to the frame and locate them fore and aft. On most solid-axle suspensions there are two arms – one above the other – at each corner of the vehicle. In stock, un-lifted form, they are usually running roughly parallel to the ground. The reason for having an upper and lower control arm is to keep the axles from ‘flipping over’ due to braking or acceleration forces. But their length and angle of operation relative to the axles also define some important imaginary geometry points called ‘instant centers’. Like roll-centers, instant-centers and their relation to the center of gravity determine most of the ‘automatic’ handling behaviors that happen during bumps, turns, acceleration, braking, and combinations of these. Some of these behaviors have names that may be familiar such as anti-squat, which is geometric resistance to the rear end dipping during acceleration. But there are more behavioral parameters such as anti-dive (similar to squat but for the front end during braking), and roll-steer that are just as important to overall vehicle setup. Roll-steer occurs when the lean of the vehicle in a turn causes the control arm geometry to actually skew the axles like a skateboard – actually producing its own vehicle direction change without the driver’s input.

Depending on how the geometry is set up, this effect can be a good, stabilizing one such as under-steer or a bad, destabilizing one such as over-steer. Sometimes packaging and ground clearance considerations can make it difficult or impossible to achieve good geometry on a lifted 4×4. But if geometry is ignored, bad qualities like over-steer can render the vehicle twitchy and hard to handle on mountain roads. In simplified terms, ‘bad’ roll-steer is caused by any lift kit that increases the control-arm angles too much, adding dangerous amounts of roll over-steer. This effect is most dramatic in rear suspensions because they have no driver controlling or compensating for direction of travel via steering. Roll-steer is caused by the fact that non-horizontal arms also move the axle fore and aft as they move up and down due to body lean – and the steeper the arms, the larger the fore-aft movement.

To some extent, longer-than-stock arms (i.e. ‘long-arms’) can improve all parameters by reducing control-arm steepness and re-locating the instant centers. But this is only true if the left and right long-arms are properly angled toward one another at the chassis end to a degree that’s appropriate for their side-view angle to the ground. If both angles are not correct, the ‘long’ benefit is wasted. Thus for both ‘simple’ (short-arm) and more complex long-arm systems, a suspension engineer must know how to locate control arms for the best possible combination of all the effects, which requires them to consider everything from handling priorities, driver preference, and other suspension factors including ride frequencies and shock valving. Done properly, correct geometry is the basis for a safe, enjoyable and highly versatile suspension. An example of how AEV optimizes the angle of the control-arms in its JK suspension systems can be seen in its front Geometry Correction Brackets. These brackets not only improve the approach angle of the front control-arms, they change the location of the instant-center and create a significant anti-dive quality under hard braking.

3 - Freguency-Based, Progressive Rate Springs

Frequencies are the speed at which a spring-mass system moves when disturbed. In the case of a Jeep, the body and chassis are the mass, while bumps (and also handling maneuvers) are the disturbances. Since there are front and rear springs, the forward and rearward halves of the Jeep actually represent two spring-mass systems that must interact with each other. To understand the concept of frequency-based spring rates, think of a shock-less vehicle driving over a single speed-bump. When the front end hits the bump it starts to oscillate up and down at a certain speed. This is the front’s ride frequency. The rear encounters the same bump at a time delay determined by wheelbase and vehicle speed. The key is that the rear needs to react faster than the front so that the oscillations of the rear can catch up to the front in about one cycle (from ride height to some amount of ‘up’, then ‘down’, and back up to ride height). This is important because if the vehicle doesn’t naturally tend to level out quickly after a bump, the shocks will be overtaxed with trying to control body position/motion instead of their real purpose of simply getting rid of the oscillations.

So to ensure the best possible combination of ride and handling, the front and rear spring rates must be derived to create the proper front and rear frequencies relative to one another. Proper suspension engineering will consider the sprung weights of the vehicle, wheelbase, load-carrying requirements and the relevant speeds the vehicle will encounter. To further enhance the spring’s ability to maintain proper frequencies under varying load conditions, a suspension engineer will design a progressive-rate spring (especially for the rear), which will keep the frequencies closer to constant over the expected load range.

Worth noting is that determining a spring’s ideal rate is not as simple as weighing the vehicle and adding on some extra capacity for passengers and cargo. Unfortunately this is a common approach in the suspension aftermarket where the frequency-based method used by the vehicle makers is not known let alone applied. All of AEV’s coil springs have been frequency tuned just like OE springs.

4 - Ideally Tuned/Matched Shocks

Shock absorbers are designed to serve two functions: damp out body motions and serve as the downward/rebound (or droop) limit of the suspension travel. Shock tuning should be undertaken after geometry, spring design, and stabilizer bar sizing is complete. When approached in this order, the shock tuning is free to focus mainly on refining ride quality rather than masking handling issues caused by bad geometry or incorrect spring rates. Actual shock tuning itself is the special way in which the shock’s internal parts (valves) are optimized so that the damping forces they generate are ideally matched to the spring frequencies, geometry effects and weight of the vehicle.

Interestingly, despite all the advances in computer modeling, auto companies still employ dozens of test drivers to tune shocks on vehicles because it takes many iterations and significant seat-of-the-pants feedback before the ideal tuning recipe can be determined. Further, shock tuning can’t be done efficiently (often not even effectively) on normal roads. It requires specially designed “ride roads” at a proving ground with select bumps and other features that can be driven over and over again – in exactly the same way – until the ideal valving can be determined. Typically this process can take many months, thousands of miles and literally hundreds of shock rebuilds. To develop shocks for AEV’s JK suspension systems, AEV teamed with Bilstein at Chrysler’s proving grounds in Michigan. The end result was a shock that helped bring out the best in AEV’s geometry and spring rates. This allows AEV JKs to remain on course over washboard surfaces and even to carve corners with racecar-like confidence – all without compromise to ride comfort.

 

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5 - Steering Geometry

Since any street-legal vehicle must have a mechanical steering connection from driver to tires, this system is critically affected by any suspension height change. Most enthusiasts are by now aware that for solid axle vehicles, the track-bar and steering drag-link must be parallel to avoid ‘bump-steer,’ but that’s just the beginning of the considerations. Roll-steer is caused when the steering linkage doesn’t pass through the roll-center of the suspension geometry – meaning that every time the vehicle leans or articulates, there is a steering input that the driver didn’t intend. This happens because there is a small lateral shift of the axle relative to the pitman arm on the steering box. This shift effectively steers the vehicle without driver input. To visualize this, think of holding the steering wheel (and consequently all of the linkage) steady and moving the axle side-to-side. Since the steering didn’t move but the axle did, the steering knuckles must rotate to make up the difference – which creates unwanted steering. On twisty, bumpy roads, roll-steer, along with the larger problem of rear suspension roll-steer (see #2), can keep the driver very busy trying to maintain the intended direction. This is because the vehicle is always doing ‘extra’ things the driver didn’t intend. This quickly leads to driver fatigue and frustration with the behavior of the vehicle. To eliminate this in AEV’s JK suspension systems, AEV engineers developed the JK High-Steer Kit. This kit repositions both the track-arm and steering drag-link. The new positions flatten the operating angles and ensure that the drag-link passes through the roll-center of the suspension geometry. The overall result is reduced driver fatigue, improved safety and very precise steering response.

6 - Control Arm Joints & Bushings

For factory vehicles, the bushings in the control arms seem boringly simple with little to do but ‘load up’ when the suspension is severely articulated. In the late ‘90’s the elimination of these ‘loaded bushings’ was fingered as the key to more flex for vehicles such as the then-new Jeep TJ. Indeed several off-road suspension companies staked their name on kits that revolved in large part around replacing boring rubber with fancy ‘swiveling’ joints of many designs. The problem is that those rubber bushings are just as much a key tuning element of the overall suspension as are the springs, shocks, and stabilizer bars. The purpose of the stock bushings is to provide a delicate balance between providing enough ‘give’ for low ride harshness, while remaining durable enough to last for an acceptable range of miles. Engineers accomplish this by choosing the ideal durometer (material stiffness) combined with sizing. The reality is that bushings literally are a science of their own. For example, track bar bushings that are too soft result in vague steering and a tendency to shimmy (aka ‘death wobble’), but bushings that are too stiff can cause the bar or brackets to fail. Meanwhile control arm joints that are all-metal or have thin hard-plastic races in them, provide no isolation and invariably result in a harsh ride and bracket failures. Yet the reason they exist in lift kits is because once the off-road aftermarket discovered that stock suspensions have some inherent ‘bind’ at large degrees of flex, they replaced the bushings with joints that seek to eliminate the bind altogether. But they ignored (or were unaware) of the fact that the bushings we actually coping with bind quite well and they were also absorbing part of the impact forces from bumps, etc…which is actually their primary function!

The reason why this impact shock absorption is so important is not just for ride comfort, it’s also there to keep the chassis brackets and even the arms themselves, alive. With fewer or no soft bushings in the chassis, it begins to self-destruct even from seemingly mild on-road impacts. The brackets, or the welds that hold them, slowly start to crack and eventually fall apart. Often this sort of failure of the stock brackets, etc. is blamed on the original vehicle maker, which is simply unfair and incorrect because the elimination of isolation from the bushings is the primary culprit! Thus the challenge with control arm bushing design for on/off-road suspensions, is to add a tolerance for ‘misalignment’ (bind) that comes from increased articulation while preserving the isolation that keeps the chassis together and passengers comfortable.

In some cases such as Jeep TJ, the factory control arm bushings are actually very good at isolation (via a lot of relatively soft material) and they also tolerate a considerable amount of articulation bind. Unfortunately, the arms they’re part of are short and weak and thus not up to the rigors of hard off-roading. But all too often the aftermarket replacement arms come with non-isolating ‘flex joints’ that sacrifice ride quality and durability for the sake of flex. In reality that flex could have been had by keeping the bushings and just upgrading the arms. In other cases such as Jeep JK, the arms are longer and strong enough for even hard off-road use and contain similar factory-tuned and durability-validated bushings as the TJ. So no replacement for the sake of off-road performance is necessary. This is the reason that AEV has chosen to retain the factory control arms in its JK suspension systems.

7 - Electronic Correction/Calibration(ProCal)

This is the newcomer to the world of suspension modification. Now that Electronic Stability Program (ESP) is standard on every new Jeep, a suspension system must be designed to work with these stability programs. This is because their benefits are too large to accept simply disabling them as a ‘solution’. Stability programs exist to assist the vehicle in ‘saving itself’ from going out of control. For example, the vehicle might individually brake one wheel to correct a spin. No human driver has the controls (or speed) to execute such a save, but the computer has. However these programs are painstakingly calibrated to the stock vehicle and depend on the computer’s knowledge of vehicle speed, tire size, and other parameters to perform their feats. Additionally, on newer vehicles things like automatic transmission shift points are dependent on the computer’s knowledge of vehicle speed, so incorrect values mean poor performance and even possible failures. Along with all of these electronics-dependent functions comes the unfortunate reality that usually the only way to correct them is also electronic. Consequently, a ‘programmer’ device is needed to insert new calibration points so that the systems can function properly with the lift, tires, etc. in place. This is why AEV developed its ProCal module which is included in certain versions of its JK suspension systems.

8 - Motion Ratios and ‘Internal Clearances’

Motion ratios are simply the relationship between one moving part and another. In suspensions, one of the most important is shock vs. wheel, where 1-to-1 would mean that for a 1-inch bump, the shock strokes 1 inch. In some cases this ratio might me ideal, but alternate ratios can also be used as long as the tuning of the affected part (shock, spring, etc.) is adjusted accordingly. For example, the further away from the wheel (or angled from vertical) a shock is placed, the firmer its valving must be to compensate for the greater leverage applied by the wheel. An example of this would be the front shocks on AEV’s JK suspension systems. AEV has reposition the front shocks in the interest of chassis clearance at maximum articulation, however AEV custom-tuned these shocks to compensate for the resulting change in movement ratios.

Internal clearances are simply the myriad of places where the moving parts of the suspension would crash into other parts of the chassis if allowed to move too far beyond the normal range. Typically this movement is supposed to be limited by the bump-stops (up-travel), shock lengths (down-travel) and steering stops (max. turn angles). Aside from the obvious need to avoid self-destruction, providing adequate clearances for all possible motion allows confident and more enjoyable use of the vehicle. AEV has carefully clearanced all components to ensure bind and noise-free movement in all of its JK suspension systems.

 

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9 - Durability

As simple as the concept of durability may seem, ‘overbuilt’ isn’t really the best answer. Overbuilt simply means that due to a lack of technical resources such as FEA modeling or maybe a lack of time, patience or even money to do proper field testing, the designer/manufacturer has resorted to throwing more material at an accessory design. The result is a heavy accessory that can cause a cascade of new problems, including additional durability issues. The problem is usually not in that accessory, but in those around it that must now be upsized to cope with its extra weight. This is a classic ‘pulling the thread on the sweater’ until it’s completely unraveled. This is also how 6000 lb. Jeeps happen, and yet consistently experience more trail failures than lighter rigs on the same trail. Instead, durability is actually a science of its own: For example, making a bracket that doesn’t fail means not only optimizing the design of the bracket itself, but also fully understanding and managing the forces that apply to it from the overall system. Knowing what the worst-case loads will be, how different loads will combine together, and what the trade-offs of different system-level solutions would be (part of FMEA analysis). A further example would be an extended track bar bracket that doesn’t induce a guaranteed failure of the stock bracket it’s bolted to because of the excessive additional leverage it causes. If you evaluate the bracketry and other components in AEV’s JK suspension systems, you will notice that they are robust and yet factory-like in appearance. This is because they have all been truly engineered for the task they manage – in relationship to the factory components with which they integrate.

10 - Traditional Expectations

Like so many markets, off-road aftermarket suspensions suffer from a fair amount of ‘creative inertia’. That is, once something is accepted as ‘the way to do it’ on one platform, many falsely assume that the entire ‘recipe’ applies equally well to another platform. Or perhaps a company may prefer to convince its customer of this because it has become their niche or specialty. The “long-arm legacy” from Jeep TJ to JK Wranglers is a perfect case-in-point: Long-arm-based suspensions are indeed central to the ideal geometry solution for TJ. This is because the stock short-arm geometry degrades rapidly with lift height. In contrast, though the 5-link/solid-axle JK suspension is similar to the TJ in basic concept, it has numerous improvements over TJ such as 40% longer boxed-section arms, longer track bars, etc.. This means that long-arms are not central to, or even necessary for, correct geometry in JKs lifted up to 4.5-inches. This is among the key reasons why long-arms are not included in AEV’s JK suspension systems.

11 - Value

Though not directly a technical issue, value is the measure of what you get for the money you spend on a suspension system. In the often mail-order world of suspension kits, quantity of parts is all too often confused with value – often resulting in additional purchases and/or even replacement purchases that far negate the original hoped-for savings. Engineering comes into the picture in two ways: First, the included parts – regardless of how many – should actually be well designed according to sound and proven engineering practice. Second, the parts that are included should be all of the ones – and the only ones – that are really needed to deliver the performance promised. Because there is so much misconception in the market regarding what is ‘the right way’ to do a given lift height and type for a given application, a bargain-hunter will often dismiss a highly-contented kit as being full of ‘fluff.’ This helps them justify buying something cheaper, but they often wind up paying much more in the end after they discover the design, durability, or performance shortcomings of the cheaper option. Likewise a system with less content can sometimes be dismissed for being ‘incomplete’ if traditional expectations are skewed by marketing campaigns or creative inertia. And finally in both cases there is always the risk that the design is simply executed incorrectly – resulting in either the wrong parts or the wrong tuning of the parts. The painful result is that many customers are forced to try and sort out their suspensions on their own, which invariably generates frustration and unnecessarily thin wallets. With AEV’s JK suspension systems, AEV has painstakingly evaluated every aspect of the JK’s performance in relationship to the added lift height our suspension creates. Because of this, AEV’s customers get exactly the right content in the kit.

12 - Dual-Mode Equals DualSport

If the typical 4×4 owners are honest with themselves, they will have to admit that the majority of their driving is still on-road – even if they go ‘off-road’ every single weekend. At that point a truly dual-mode suspension is what’s needed. But due to decades of living without good dual-mode suspension options, most consumers, shops, and even the off-road media seem to think they can’t be made. That is simply not the case if basic vehicle dynamics and OE-style engineering are applied to suspension design! Whether due to a lack of engineering know-how or a lack of interest in offering dual-mode systems, most manufacturers simply don’t design their suspension systems with an expanded spectrum of performance (i.e. add more off-road ability without losing on-road). Instead they simply shift the spectrum toward off-road performance and let the customer suffer the on-road consequences. Aside from the usually obvious and sometimes frightfully dangerous safety issues such systems cause, the large percentage of miserable on-road driving experience eventually turns to dissatisfaction at some level – resulting in re-modifying, more parts and labor, and even selling the vehicle in disgust.

This need not be the case for Jeep JK owners. AEV offers a fully engineered, truly dual-mode suspension system appropriately named ‘DualSport.’ AEV’s DualSport Suspension Systems are the culmination of all the critical OE engineering principles discussed in this document. Because of this these suspension systems not only improve off-road capability, they increase on-road performance too. These truly dual-mode suspensions elevate the enjoyment of driving a lifted Jeep everyday and eliminate the compromise or any need to ‘suffer for the sake of the sport.’