pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Everything I like about rusted out Dana 44 ball joint preload nuts
.
.
The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
This front Dana 44 is fighting me every step of the way. Everything is rusty, covered in baked on gunk and boogered threads. I got the ball joints all installed. Had to spend hours cleaning everything, solvent tank (it's so nice having a solvent tank), wire wheeling everything, chasing threads, etc. The ball joint preload nuts were a nightmare. Couldn't get them out, once out couldn't get them back in. Finally success.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I said I had a good parts source and I do. It turns out that I was trying to install my axle u-joints the hard way. I called Ammon at Ventures truck parts and he sent me a video showing the quick, easy way to do it. My ignorance was expensive. I killed three joints before I learned the right way. YouTube failed me. 
Here's a link to the good video. U-joints the easy way. Now, I wait for parts.
I also went to install my calipers on the rear and they are hitting the brackets. I sent an email to the supplier to ask if I can grind the caliper. It's this boss here. I guess all metric calipers are not the same.
Here's a link to the good video. U-joints the easy way. Now, I wait for parts.I also went to install my calipers on the rear and they are hitting the brackets. I sent an email to the supplier to ask if I can grind the caliper. It's this boss here. I guess all metric calipers are not the same.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Incremental progress. The caliper supplier says that's just a solid boss, I can grind for clearance. It's sad that when you ask a question, everyone goes into CYA mode instead of just answering the question. They immediately went into asking me the application and said I ordered the wrong part number. What is the part number for a metric rear caliper for a 14 bolt rear axle swapped onto a 79 blazer K5 chassis with an 85 Isuzu Trooper body on it? Settle down people, I'm not trying to start a fight.
I got these high steer arms. Not sure what you're supposed to run with them; some tapered ball joint. I ream them out to use a tapered insert meant to run a 3/4 inch bolt on a Super Duty axle. I get them from Barnes 4wd. I was told just drill it for a 3/4 bolt, but I did that on the F350 and it eventually hogged the knuckle out. I originally did this to save my F350 knuckles. Now I'm starting off right.
I used my Makita drill motor that I bought in the 1980's. It's got some serious horsepower. It's the only thing that will take the load of the reamer. That said, it beats the crap out of you. Every time it catches, it could break your wrist. Not only are my muscles sore, but I have bruises on my hands. It took me hours because I had to keep stopping to let the Makita cool down. Even at night, it was in the high 80's in the garage. I was using Master Blaster as a cutting fluid. It wasn't working the best. You know what ended up working the best? Anti-seize. That's a new one for me, but you can't argue with success. Three holes done! Lots more to do. Plenty of parts going on and some fab work on the front end.
I got these high steer arms. Not sure what you're supposed to run with them; some tapered ball joint. I ream them out to use a tapered insert meant to run a 3/4 inch bolt on a Super Duty axle. I get them from Barnes 4wd. I was told just drill it for a 3/4 bolt, but I did that on the F350 and it eventually hogged the knuckle out. I originally did this to save my F350 knuckles. Now I'm starting off right.
I used my Makita drill motor that I bought in the 1980's. It's got some serious horsepower. It's the only thing that will take the load of the reamer. That said, it beats the crap out of you. Every time it catches, it could break your wrist. Not only are my muscles sore, but I have bruises on my hands. It took me hours because I had to keep stopping to let the Makita cool down. Even at night, it was in the high 80's in the garage. I was using Master Blaster as a cutting fluid. It wasn't working the best. You know what ended up working the best? Anti-seize. That's a new one for me, but you can't argue with success. Three holes done! Lots more to do. Plenty of parts going on and some fab work on the front end.