ITTOG
Well-known member
Been there. I sometimes am surprised I don't have cancer on/in my hands.
The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
We've all done it. Don't even say that word. So many awesome people lost to that horrible disease.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Finally some progress. I sent my welding bottle out and they had to test it first. That was 3 weeks ago. The welding supply place finally gave me a loaner bottle until mine comes back. Started mocking up the Rock Jock sway bar. Fabricating the mounts from scratch. So far everything is lining up the way I wanted. I had some end links laying around, they are too long. I'll cut them down and they will be fine. Now I have to see if the rear torque arm is going to clear at full bump. I'll just have to make it work. Making everything fit is always a challenge.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
I'm interested in how this works out, I have plans to put one on the back of the truck with the Hallmark.
ITTOG
Well-known member
That is interesting. I was going to put a hellwig on my truck but it hung lower than the diff so it was a no go. As were a couple other brands I looked at. This looks to solve that problem.
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Kingsize24
Well-known member
Yes it does. I was thinking of the bar on the frame behind the axle and the arms facing forward, but either way the feedback here, and how it's mounted will apply. It's honestly a great bar, and this is a great idea. Look forward to seeing it here when complete.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I put a hellwig on my F350 and it made a huge difference. It was a simple bolt on. I had to figure out a rear application for this truck because the progressive leaf springs are super plush, so you can't tow with them. The back end gets all over the road. Now I'm wondering what to do on the front because the factory sway bar interferes with the high/crossover steering linkage.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Do you have any room where you could high mount a sway bar above the frame between your steering box and your core support/radiator?
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I've looked at it, but I need to make more progress on where everything's going. The blazer chassis is longer and the wheelbase is just over 2 inches longer. I'm going to line up the rear tires with the wheel opening on the Trooper. The frame will stick out the rear. I'm going to put that to use by mounting the tire carrier to the frame in the rear. In front, the tires being pushed out 2 inches means the stock fenders need to be cut, OR I can push the front core support forward and do something else with the fenders. I'm going to push it out because it gives me more room for the V8. I'm thinking about an exo-cage with no fenders like this truck that I found on the internet.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
I see what you are saying, and like the direction you are going. What is the wheelbase going to be once you stretch to where you want everything to be?
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I'm not stretching the wheelbase. The wheelbase is factory chevy Blazer. That's 2 inches longer that the Trooper. I'm going to stretch the front core support over what the Trooper body has to give me more tire and motor clearance. Not sure if I mentioned this, but I'm going to be running 37 inch Milestar Patagonia XT's. It's going to be low, but with big tires. I built a Jeep CJ like that (on 36's) back in the 80's. It was really good on off camber stuff. The group of friends I used to go wheeling with had Jeeps and Toyotas. I was the only one who managed not to roll it in the mountainous terrain we used to wheel in.
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Kingsize24
Well-known member
Ahhhh... makes more sense. I like the plan. You will have to let us know how you like those XT's as well. I actually like the concept of that tire alot.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I was going to put the Patagonia's on my F350, but the fuel mileage on that truck is really getting me down. I don't like to drive it because it leaves a trail of dollar bills behind it. I think the ecm is going out on it. It's a common problem. I want the Trooper to become my daily, camping, 4 wheeling rig. That's why I like the XT's. They are a great all-around tire. Where I live in the southwest, you have to go long distances on the highway to get anywhere. Then you need a tough tire that can take the abuse of the terrain. Everything in the desert wants to poke you, stab you or bite you.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Progress! Lots going on. First thing, I got a new welding helmet. Now I can actually see. My old helmet was auto-darkening, but it was too dark. I was welding blind. It dawned on me that it was 30 years old! Of course I have more issues. I'm getting a lot of splatter; too much. It could be dirty material (yes), bad shielding gas (they gave me a loaner bottle and I think it's straight CO2), or inconsistent arc (also true). I'm using a (also 30 year's old), hobart 110 welder. The wire feed is just not consistent. I'm going to have to work on that. I got my Rock Jock sway bar all mounted. The welds are not the best, but overall I'm happy with the results.
The links mount to new Barnes spring plates and bolts. The links are super short to get the arms parallel to the ground at ride height. The barrels are welded to each other. I'd like to make better links and I ordered a left hand tap so I can make them without welding.
The way the frame tapers where I mounted it, it was rock solid with only the bolts through the holes, no nuts on them. It's also high enough that it won't interfere with the torque arm I'm going to run for axle wrap.
The arms are no wider than the leaf springs so they should clear the tires. It also puts the load dead center on the spring plates and the centerline of the axle. They also clear the Bilstein shock that is outboard mounted on the passenger side of the frame. There was a lot of stuff that had to work out and it all did. Huge thanks to Brian Shephard at Rock Jock for all his help in getting me the correct parts to make this work, I'm super stoked!
It's a beautiful day out with no wind so I'm going to do some frame repairs that require welding!
The links mount to new Barnes spring plates and bolts. The links are super short to get the arms parallel to the ground at ride height. The barrels are welded to each other. I'd like to make better links and I ordered a left hand tap so I can make them without welding.
The way the frame tapers where I mounted it, it was rock solid with only the bolts through the holes, no nuts on them. It's also high enough that it won't interfere with the torque arm I'm going to run for axle wrap.
The arms are no wider than the leaf springs so they should clear the tires. It also puts the load dead center on the spring plates and the centerline of the axle. They also clear the Bilstein shock that is outboard mounted on the passenger side of the frame. There was a lot of stuff that had to work out and it all did. Huge thanks to Brian Shephard at Rock Jock for all his help in getting me the correct parts to make this work, I'm super stoked!
It's a beautiful day out with no wind so I'm going to do some frame repairs that require welding!
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