pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Everything I like about rusted out Dana 44 ball joint preload nuts
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The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
This front Dana 44 is fighting me every step of the way. Everything is rusty, covered in baked on gunk and boogered threads. I got the ball joints all installed. Had to spend hours cleaning everything, solvent tank (it's so nice having a solvent tank), wire wheeling everything, chasing threads, etc. The ball joint preload nuts were a nightmare. Couldn't get them out, once out couldn't get them back in. Finally success.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.