pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Everything I like about rusted out Dana 44 ball joint preload nuts
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The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
This front Dana 44 is fighting me every step of the way. Everything is rusty, covered in baked on gunk and boogered threads. I got the ball joints all installed. Had to spend hours cleaning everything, solvent tank (it's so nice having a solvent tank), wire wheeling everything, chasing threads, etc. The ball joint preload nuts were a nightmare. Couldn't get them out, once out couldn't get them back in. Finally success.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.
The knuckle studs for the steering arm on the driver's side; I'm not going to attempt to get them out. The problem is the threads are crusty. I had to order a die, ordered the wrong one. Put on hold. Started to mock up the high steer. Of course the tie rod runs right into the strap clamp on my leaf springs. Cut the tops off.
Then things really sucked. I started putting the u-joints in my axles. Everything went wrong. Nothing fit. Exploded $100 worth of joints before determining I probably got the wrong parts, they don't fit. It said they fit, they don't fit. They are too wide. I have a good supplier. I hope they can figure something out and make it right on Monday.
After all that destruction, I decided I might as well work on destruction. I removed the x-member that braced the steering box and mounted the sway bar. The sway bar won't work with high steer and the x-member didn't stop the frame from cracking so I'll make something better. The fastest, easiest way I have found to remove the factory rivets is to grind the heads off and punch them through. It's the quietest and least destructive method.
The new 2WD Borgeson box has smaller bolts that swim in the holes through the frame so I'm going to need some kind of sleeve or bushing or something. I wish I had the engine in and an idea where the front core support is going to go. I'll make something that bolts together and if it ends up being permanent, I'll weld it.
One thing that's great with the heat is baking paint. Just leave painted parts in the sun for a couple days and the paint gets fully cured. I had to go for a little bling on my calipers.
These u-joints not fitting has really screwed up the process. I hope it gets resolved.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I said I had a good parts source and I do. It turns out that I was trying to install my axle u-joints the hard way. I called Ammon at Ventures truck parts and he sent me a video showing the quick, easy way to do it. My ignorance was expensive. I killed three joints before I learned the right way. YouTube failed me. 
Here's a link to the good video. U-joints the easy way. Now, I wait for parts.
I also went to install my calipers on the rear and they are hitting the brackets. I sent an email to the supplier to ask if I can grind the caliper. It's this boss here. I guess all metric calipers are not the same.
Here's a link to the good video. U-joints the easy way. Now, I wait for parts.I also went to install my calipers on the rear and they are hitting the brackets. I sent an email to the supplier to ask if I can grind the caliper. It's this boss here. I guess all metric calipers are not the same.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Incremental progress. The caliper supplier says that's just a solid boss, I can grind for clearance. It's sad that when you ask a question, everyone goes into CYA mode instead of just answering the question. They immediately went into asking me the application and said I ordered the wrong part number. What is the part number for a metric rear caliper for a 14 bolt rear axle swapped onto a 79 blazer K5 chassis with an 85 Isuzu Trooper body on it? Settle down people, I'm not trying to start a fight.
I got these high steer arms. Not sure what you're supposed to run with them; some tapered ball joint. I ream them out to use a tapered insert meant to run a 3/4 inch bolt on a Super Duty axle. I get them from Barnes 4wd. I was told just drill it for a 3/4 bolt, but I did that on the F350 and it eventually hogged the knuckle out. I originally did this to save my F350 knuckles. Now I'm starting off right.
I used my Makita drill motor that I bought in the 1980's. It's got some serious horsepower. It's the only thing that will take the load of the reamer. That said, it beats the crap out of you. Every time it catches, it could break your wrist. Not only are my muscles sore, but I have bruises on my hands. It took me hours because I had to keep stopping to let the Makita cool down. Even at night, it was in the high 80's in the garage. I was using Master Blaster as a cutting fluid. It wasn't working the best. You know what ended up working the best? Anti-seize. That's a new one for me, but you can't argue with success. Three holes done! Lots more to do. Plenty of parts going on and some fab work on the front end.
I got these high steer arms. Not sure what you're supposed to run with them; some tapered ball joint. I ream them out to use a tapered insert meant to run a 3/4 inch bolt on a Super Duty axle. I get them from Barnes 4wd. I was told just drill it for a 3/4 bolt, but I did that on the F350 and it eventually hogged the knuckle out. I originally did this to save my F350 knuckles. Now I'm starting off right.
I used my Makita drill motor that I bought in the 1980's. It's got some serious horsepower. It's the only thing that will take the load of the reamer. That said, it beats the crap out of you. Every time it catches, it could break your wrist. Not only are my muscles sore, but I have bruises on my hands. It took me hours because I had to keep stopping to let the Makita cool down. Even at night, it was in the high 80's in the garage. I was using Master Blaster as a cutting fluid. It wasn't working the best. You know what ended up working the best? Anti-seize. That's a new one for me, but you can't argue with success. Three holes done! Lots more to do. Plenty of parts going on and some fab work on the front end.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Rear brakes are mounted. I still need to run new hard lines.
This is all the crud that came out of the mounting holes on a brand new borgeson steering box when I chased the threads. Things like this are what takes time. It reminds me of doing race truck prep. You have to inspect everything and make sure everything fits.
This is all the crud that came out of the mounting holes on a brand new borgeson steering box when I chased the threads. Things like this are what takes time. It reminds me of doing race truck prep. You have to inspect everything and make sure everything fits.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Today I fabricated a steering box brace for the back side of the frame. I left it long on one end so I can tie it into whatever x-member I make for the core support. Three fixed mounts and the fourth is floating. I was sure it would bind up after I welded it, but I pulled it off. I welded the sleeves to the tubing and let it cool overnight. It was hot so it cooled gradually. It worked.
Now I'm working on bump stops that use the factory mounts. I have some daystar stingers sitting around. I really need the truck sitting at ride height to figure out where to place them. I can plan it out, but will have to wait on it.
Now I'm working on bump stops that use the factory mounts. I have some daystar stingers sitting around. I really need the truck sitting at ride height to figure out where to place them. I can plan it out, but will have to wait on it.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Incremental progress. Still having problems with the axle u-joints. I gave up and ordered new axles. The u-joints just don't fit those factory axles. Don't know why, don't know how, but that's the way it is. I roached 4 u-joints just to come to a dead end. Everyone was telling me I was wrong, but they just don't fit, period. The axle is from 1978, the final year of the Dana 44 front. They were probably using whatever was on the shelf.
I spent a lot of time on the crossover steering. I'm going with a fabricated pitman arm. I came up the design and after test fitting a crude prototype we are going ahead with it. The arm and welding of the steering links are being done by a local race shop.
I finished putting the motor together. New parts include oil pan, oil pump, rear main seal, timing cover, new balancer, intake manifold and new gaskets everywhere. Plus a detail job. I had to pull the main caps off the crank to get the rear main seal out and the bearings all looked good.
before:
After:
I also got the rear brakes all finished with the new calipers and all new brake lines.
As soon as I get the steering parts and new axles I can put the front together and get it back on all 4 wheels. Now I can start taking the Trooper apart. I'm going to be using the body and not much more. The rest of the Trooper parts will be going on a 4 door body I have. That truck will be mostly stock. It will be a 4 cyl. manual truck that I can use as a grocery getter. The 4 door doesn't have an engine, I got it for $300. I'll take all the best parts and put one good truck together.
I spent a lot of time on the crossover steering. I'm going with a fabricated pitman arm. I came up the design and after test fitting a crude prototype we are going ahead with it. The arm and welding of the steering links are being done by a local race shop.
I finished putting the motor together. New parts include oil pan, oil pump, rear main seal, timing cover, new balancer, intake manifold and new gaskets everywhere. Plus a detail job. I had to pull the main caps off the crank to get the rear main seal out and the bearings all looked good.
before:
After:
I also got the rear brakes all finished with the new calipers and all new brake lines.
As soon as I get the steering parts and new axles I can put the front together and get it back on all 4 wheels. Now I can start taking the Trooper apart. I'm going to be using the body and not much more. The rest of the Trooper parts will be going on a 4 door body I have. That truck will be mostly stock. It will be a 4 cyl. manual truck that I can use as a grocery getter. The 4 door doesn't have an engine, I got it for $300. I'll take all the best parts and put one good truck together.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Beginning phase two, tearing down the Trooper. Lot's of swearing involved. Not sure how Isuzu was able to form threads in the bolts without melting the butter that the bolt heads are made of. Had to grind some bolts off after the heads got rounded.
The front clip is ready to come off except there are two bolts on the passenger side fender. (Excuse the totally crappy pic).
They put these bolts in, then welded this box section over it. Someone should have been fired.
What other insults to logic will I find?
The front clip is ready to come off except there are two bolts on the passenger side fender. (Excuse the totally crappy pic).
They put these bolts in, then welded this box section over it. Someone should have been fired.
What other insults to logic will I find?
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I got curious today and couldn't stop. I tore the entire dash and harness out today. I was talking the other day about not having rust issues here in AZ, but we have pack rats and heat. I discovered another regional issue that turns up around here. PO's (previous owners). There is a special place in hell for anyone that uses loctite on philips head screws. Here's how it goes. They live 20 miles down a dirt road; it's common here. So that's 40 miles of dirt just to get groceries. It rattles everything loose, but putting loctite on grade 2 screws? You might as well weld them. The PO did this on the screws holding the dash in. I had a hard time using vise grips and twisting them out. Good thing I'm not re-using the dash. It got hammered. Despite the challenge, I got everything out.
I found some hidden rust, that's daylight under there.
I was pleasantly surprised that I only had to cut a couple wires to get the harness pulled.
Now I have to disconnect the tail light harness, fuel filler hose and any other exhaust hanger or ? that remains. Then I can pull the body mounts. I can feel the dirt in my eyes just thinking about all the dirt that's going to fall down.
I found some hidden rust, that's daylight under there.
I was pleasantly surprised that I only had to cut a couple wires to get the harness pulled.
Now I have to disconnect the tail light harness, fuel filler hose and any other exhaust hanger or ? that remains. Then I can pull the body mounts. I can feel the dirt in my eyes just thinking about all the dirt that's going to fall down.
NevadaLover
Forking Icehole
Did you try using heat on those screws to break the hold that loctite creates? That usually helps for me.
I Love the creativity on this beast, can't wait to see the beast in action.
I Love the creativity on this beast, can't wait to see the beast in action.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Unfortunately the screws were imbedded in the dash and right next to the windshield gasket and the glass. I had to be careful with the vise grips even so I didn't hit the glass and crack it. *Update* I just found the same rust on the passenger side floor. I hate rust repair even though I've done plenty of it over the years. Today I'm nursing my wounds. I cut both hands and smashed my fingernail on my left hand. I shouldn't complain. I used to work for this guy who was a mechanic for decades. I remember the side of his index finger looks like the bottom of a miter box. RIP Ken!
NevadaLover
Forking Icehole
Small screws and bolts in the worst places are the devil, the engineers who design the uses of such devices deserve a special layer in hell.
Rust is a pain but fairly easy to deal with, much as I despise it.
After I retired, I swore to not get any more wounds or cuts from working on vehicles or equipment, as it turns out I lied to myself and cannot stop, I guess I do I still enjoy the occasional small nick or skin tear since the pain reminds that I am still alive.
Keep up the good work and the updates.
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