Isuzu npr 4wd

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Wish I could use grommets

My bumper is 2 inches thick
WOW, a 7 foot (213cm) wide, by 6 inches (15cm) high 2 inches (5cm) thick bumper in steel is apx. 285 pounds (129kg) :oops:

Add this sticker to it when you are done.
ab.png

Back to the question
Just get some fuel line or other rubber hose with the inside diameter you need and use that for the run thought the bumper

fl.png
 

gator70

Well-known member
Just read this -

High Winds: How Much is Too Much?

This is a question that gets asked often, and it’s really what prompted me to make this video. A lot of people want to know: how high of a wind gust is too high for me to be driving?

Well, there have actually been some studies on this. Research shows that winds as low as 35 mph can start to push high-profile vehicles sideways on the highway. One study found that a stationary 18-foot travel trailer could overturn in about a 53 mph crosswind, while a larger motorhome could tip over at around 65 mph.

For some perspective, in our area we have tornado sirens all over the place. These sirens go off not only when a tornado is spotted but also when winds over 70 mph are detected. That means RVs can flip at wind speeds well below the threshold for sirens.

So, what does this mean for drivers? If you’re on the road, you’ll probably want to slow down when crosswinds reach 15 to 25 mph. Once sustained winds climb into the 30 to 40 mph range, it’s safest to pull over until conditions improve.
 

gator70

Well-known member
Found this


Hi friend,

Thanks for signing up to download our Starlink Field Guide: Using Starlink While Traveling and Camping.

The guide included over 60 pages of tips, tricks, and recommendations for using Starlink on your adventures. The Guide covers everything from availability, hardware, service plans, power, mounting, positioning, troubleshooting, and accessories to get the most from your Starlink
 

Roam.Wild

Well-known member
Found this


Hi friend,

Thanks for signing up to download our Starlink Field Guide: Using Starlink While Traveling and Camping.

The guide included over 60 pages of tips, tricks, and recommendations for using Starlink on your adventures. The Guide covers everything from availability, hardware, service plans, power, mounting, positioning, troubleshooting, and accessories to get the most from your Starlink

Who the heck needs 60 pages to use Starlink? Ours has been permanently mounted on the roof of our camper for 3 years, over 50,000 miles traveled across 4 countries. 0 issues ever, one of our most reliable pieces of kit!
 

gator70

Well-known member
Who the heck needs 60 pages to use Starlink? Ours has been permanently mounted on the roof of our camper for 3 years, over 50,000 miles traveled across 4 countries. 0 issues ever, one of our most reliable pieces of kit!

Newbies like me
 

gator70

Well-known member
Rear storage box and attachment engineering



We did not trust the weight of such being suspended by the composite core panel in the rear.

We engineered steel frames underneath and welded to the subframe.
 

gator70

Well-known member
Doing research on older Samsung tablets for navigation. I see them forsale refurbished for $60-70

Many can't be used for mobile data due to 5g upgrades, but WIFI and GPS works.

Seem to work for google maps and online apps such as OnX
 

gator70

Well-known member
I constantly reassess my build decisions. My goal was to keep the habitat as low as possible — now standing at 12 feet high (solar panels and A/C unit). I made compromises in every area to achieve that, balancing trail clearance with improved stability and reduced vulnerability to strong winds.

(Note: A MB Sprinter awd high roof is 10ft high)
 
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gator70

Well-known member
Still working on the subframe , its taking time as the habitat was a flatbed design, a four seasons build.

Yet I took the design of a European subframe and incorporated this into the (1) the habitat build from original conception, (2) the connection engineering (3) the spring mounted truck frame connection.

And went to a engineering overkill in the design, as the cost difference was less than $1000 for that added peace of mind.

When done I will post pictures.

Wow the subframe adds about 700 Lbs. No worries I had that planned.

1760798126349.png
 

gator70

Well-known member
Most builders go to a subframe suppliers and pay $10,000

Its not only about steel and welding, the engineering is important.

As an example, much of my weight was near the rear (water tanks and batteries) So I did extra crossmembers and gussets in that area, so there is no flex. Most of my welding, was not left to chance, but I used 30x30 by 45 degree cuts to add a gusset to these connections.
 
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rruff

Explorer
Everything is chance and overbuilding is no assurance that it won't break...

My "subframe" is 106 lbs of aluminum beams, PU isolators, and carbon fiber load spreaders that are glued to the carbon/foam floor. That bolts to the 8 bed mounts. It articulates very well and is holding up great on quite challenging and rough trails...so far. Quite a bit lighter than the bed I removed, which I estimate was ~350 lbs.
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
I do some composite failure analysis as part of my day job. Part of this is interfacing composite parts with traditional metal structures. I can say with certainty that many failure modes are not intuitive, even to engineers with classical training. Load transfer is also highly dependent on the composite panels stiffness in each loading direction. Paying for good engineering is often worth the cost. Unfortunately this isn't an area where you can just do a high level copy of something that "works". The first step in a decent design is good data on the composite panels. This includes the stiffness (modulus), allowable strain in each loading type, thermal expansion characteristics, and concentrated load allowables. Once you start asking, you will find many composite panel suppliers do not have most, or any of this data. Ideally from actual qualification testing, but conservative numbers from basic calculations can substitute.

All that said, adding additional material (increasing the stiffness) of an attached metal structure can be counter productive, resulting in higher peak/concentrated loads. This isn't something I would want some recent engineering grad working on, thats for sure! In fact its often best to design a attachment with weak points. Better to have a bolt shear or fail in tension, then have a composite panel fail in buckling or pure bending. Of course the failure modes need evaluated for safety.

Depending on the stiffness of the box/composite, and its allowable ultimate loads, a subframe can be made quite light. Say a 14ft box in the 5,000-7,000lb range could be less than 400lbs. In these cases the subframe serves as a locator, and it spreads out loads. With the box itself providing the vast majority of the structure. This is the most efficient way, as a good composite panel will have much higher specific stiffness.
 

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