They are used a lot in trucks and boats. They are quiet. The thing you have to watch is placement of the pump to avoid hearing it and make sure you get the muffler.
Powerspark is great if you want to stay with a distributor.
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/v8-distributor-bundles/rover-3.5-3.9-4.2-v8-distributor-red-10mm-hyper-performance-high-energy-coil
Not even CLOSE. The cost to go that route would be two to three times higher. There are no "stock" axles that you can throw in and be suitable for 35" tires. They will all need a lot of money put into them. It is much, much easier to put money into the existing axles.
If you are running...
Never really. The problem with head gasket failures did not start until the mid to late 90s. I never recall anyone having head gasket failures until those models started to show up.
Do the clutch then. Change all the throwout components at the same time as well as the slave and master. Use only OEM parts. A metal housed throwout bearing would be a good idea and a reinforced clutch fork.
Rubbing is fixed by adjusting the steering stops. It has nothing to do with a lift. Spring lifts do not affect tire clearance. You will probably need a small trim. Lifts do not fix the need for a trim.
The arm on the lever shaft can be flipped to make it work backwards. Here are a couple of correct arrangments. It varies with the gearbox and in most cases, you can get it to work reversed.
3 decades of wheeling with everything out there. By far the most trail repairs by brand are on Toyotas . Mainly because their owners are the worst at keeping them maintained. In my experience they all break as much as the other. And all of the new ones are costly to repair.
Really, you are just dreaming. Parts cost is no different and reliability will not be any different for modern vehicles such as these. They are all complicated and costly to repair. Toyotas are not any more reliable than anything else. It is just a myth.
A Land Cruiser is more accurate...
The diffs are not really any stronger as well. They still fail at the cross pin quite easily. That may be the logic to making the shafts weak, so they would fail before the diff. Anyway the stock stuff is all pretty crappy and fortunately there are good aftermarket options for everything...
You can't push from the other side in a stock diff (which is what he is using, a stock diff that is welded). The cross pin blocks the path. I always carry the pull/push tools, but they are only useful for pushing with diffs that have an open center.
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