Search results

I'm a little confused as to what you need, but the 200TDI Defender is definitely 5/8" UNF and VDO has direct fit senders. http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=250F_120C_VDO

Ahh, here it is: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/headlight-shootout-1166827/

Here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/56524-Comparing-7-quot-Aftermarket-Headlights I don't have time to read, but I think he has an up to date one still running somewhere as well.

I assume both you guys have read the massive 7" headlight comparison that is on this forum?

I have a pump for my 8R. It really is a great addition. You get a lot more power and it is simpler to light. I'm had this stove for 40+ years.

You should get some proper winter tires. You do not want to use chains on the road.

If the latch is not in the second (fully) latches position, the lock can't engage. First make sure it is fully closing. Test the latch with the door open. I've had the springs that hold the lock fail before, which could also be the problem.

You need to find better suppliers. The bracket can all be had from a wrecking yard for nothing. They are the same as a 200TDI.... New pumps are around $200, but you could do used as well.

It only uses power when working hard, so it will not affect engine power. It is the same setup as a 200TDI, so it is simple to add.

And coasting did not cause it either... You had to disengage the clutch while in the middle of a turn. He noticed when turning into parking spots. It seemed to be the locker engaging and disengaging rapidly with the drivetrain backlash. It was a weird thing.

Yes, 300TDI 110 with an R380. He is local and we drove it, so he could show me. The chattering was only in the front, though, if you disengaged the clutch at full lock. Nothing from the rear. He later sold the truck, so no idea what happened past that point.

Well, to be fair a Detroit in a Salisbury will never die. In a Rover axle it is a different story. The Salisbury center is much stronger than any halfshaft that can be put in the axle. Seeing as this thread is about a 110, we should keep the discussion to that vehicle.

I have them. They replaced a set of Nitrochargers that died after two years of use... They are amazing. On rough roads, they just soak up the bumps and you just want to drive faster and faster. Nobody can keep up with me since I got them. You want 8240-1181SPX and 8240-1190SPX For springs...

That is very terrain and vehicle dependent. BETTER tires is usually the biggest deciding factor. A locker makes more sense over suspension travel.

The problem with suspension lifts in the Rover community is nobody sells proper kits nor informs customers of all the items that really should be addressed... A 3" spring lift really should have... - Springs. - Adjusted shock mounts or longer travel shocks. - Longer bump stops or bump stop...

Springs do NOT limit compression travel, or I should say they should not limit it.... If you want to limit compression travel you MUST add longer bump stops. If the springs do limit the compression travel, you will break something as the springs should not ever fully collapse. Really if you...

Oh, also on D1s, there can be bushing cups that are welded to the lower shock mount. If you have those, remove them and use the cups that come with the shocks. Those welded cups cause bind and lead to the lower pins breaking off.

You should probably make sure that the shocks can't bottom in compression. A shock relocation should really include longer bumpstops to prevent this. Relying on the springs to control maximum up travel is not a good practice.

The plugs are 1/2" BSP. Proper plugs are available for around 50 cents.

Local locksmith....