Search results

Just be careful using the odometer to determine the distance traveled.... Accuracy and Rover are not words to use together.

Well certainly a Defender or its replacement should not....

Well I would do a new VNT turbo and a known good or rebuilt pump. Access to low cost other parts is easy when you have the right friends. Yep, lovely place. Let us know, maybe we can get some people out. http://www.red90.ca/photos/land-rover-trips/Crowsnest%20August%202011...

You can still get brand new stripped 300TDI engines and they are not that expensive. If I were to do one now, that would be the safe route. Get the rest of the bits from a UK junkyard and away you go.

Remove screw holding the headlight surround on....

You can put that in the advertising. "So big, even the Antichrist will give it a tug"

Climbing ropes are completely different. The structural rope is on the inside and can be damaged without seeing it. These types of ropes are an open braid with all of the rope fibers visible and easy to inspect. As with all synthetic winch rope, they should be cleaned between use to prolong life.

The main advantage is they can be used on a wider variety of mounting locations. A normal shackle needs a fairly specific place to attach. The steel shackles become projectiles because of failure of what they are attached to. This is VERY common in our usage as the vehicle attachment points...

Love to see this snatch block you are using that is as strong as the 3/4" shackle....

I really think you need to step back. It has been shown to have a breaking strength around 25000 pounds. On a normal 8000 lb winch this is a factor over 3:1, which is tons.

Umm but it is a double rope pull in shackle use, so 52800 lbs * 2 * de-ration (for the knot, spliced and the tight bends) = breaking strength. I imagine the confusion over size is they are using 9 mm rope which becomes 16 mm when the splicing is performed.

http://www.shortwavestore.com/car-stereos-with-shortwave/

Not sure you would want to use a built in radiator cooler as that heats the oil up to coolant temperature which may not be a good idea for the gearbox.

You need the gearbox plate, which I'm sure you could get from a junk yard (maybe in Australia) and then source a cooler from any auto parts store and some hose. Should be easy enough to do.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=156

I had Hella H4s with upgraded wiring and the light was great. I did find two problems though. 1) They are not waterproof and I do not believe any H4 units can be. If you wade with water over the headlights, they get water in them. 2) H4 bulbs have fairly low bulb life. If you run with your...

If the front DS is off, that means the transfer case viscous coupling is most likely dead and will need to be fixed before running in 4WD again.

I don't know the details of this line and your picture is a little hard to see...but you should be able to take the assembly to a hose shop and get the hose section replaced.

Maybe we wander off topic a bit... But anyway as the topic of recovery gear strength is here... This is just my opinion. The recovery gear used is a system and the design of that system to allow safe use when used properly by trained operators is important. I personally use these guidelines...

The panels come out of the UK. Cheap, quick and easy to source. Forming the aluminum panels is simple and cheap, just time consuming.