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The air bags also increase spring rate, so this helps control the heavier load.

For what you are asking. Little lift and only occasionally heavy, I would suggest airbags in the rear springs. Airlift and Firestone make them and they do not cost very much. You can then easily adjust the height as you load up to stay level. Heavy rear springs in an unloaded Disco suck.

If you stay with Rover centers, I would look at Ashcroft's new R&Ps. Lots of ratios and much stronger than stock, plus Rovertracks CV's and axles.

I forgot to add, I'm using 2" as well.

OK, I see. With mine you can transfer a bit, the top 1/4 of the front tank but no more than that when on the steepest of climbs. No problems filling up at full rates into either tank. Usually filling problems are in the design of the vent. I have quite a thoroughly designed baffle and vent...

What are your concerns with a Y filler? I used one and would be interested in what you see as the down side.

This is my rear tank (before finishing). 63 useable liters. I put in a later 300TDI exhaust to clear the rear area for the tank. I suppose I should take some install photos one day...

If you have a side tank, add a rear tank. If you have a rear tank, add a side tank. Get a diesel...I can do 1100 km in my 90. Which year truck are we talking about as that affects the details? NAS or "rest of the world"?

That is the difference. A Salisbury Detroit won't break with a halfshaft. A Rover Detroit will.

Yes, 1989 to 1993 was a different version than 1994 to 1998.

How broad are you planning to cover? The RR Classic was built for 26 years. There was a large range of changes over that time.

I would suggest upgraded diffs, halfshafts and CVs for the sake of reliability. Otherwise carry a full set and be prepared to change in the field. You would need to upgrade springs and shocks for the assumed extra load. Front and rear bumpers with proper recovery points are a must. Larger or...

They are special stretch bolts. They must be replaced. I'm not thinking you are going to want to use off the shelf bolts....

They are Volvo portals which are drum braked stock.

In my experience (we have a lot of 2.5NA to 200TDI conversions here), the later LT77S (suffix H) is MUCH stronger than what is in the ex-MOD trucks (suffix B and C). First check what suffix box you have. The 200TDI boxes also have a higher 5th gear than the early boxes making highway use much...

If you get a 200TDI from a Defender with all of the parts needed from the donor truck, it is completely bolt in. When I did mine by myself in my garage, it was around 12 hours of work. With a friend, it can easily be done in a day. I would also suggest bringing the gearbox and transfer case...

In the UK, there are tons of wheels that you can get cheap. Place in the USA, http://www.trekoutfitters.com/extra/expedition_gear/st_wheel.htm The best idea: http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/catalog_land_rover.htm

Only NAS trucks have an underseat display...

You need a trip to Germany.... It is full of proper roads and people that know how to drive....

Overall reliability would be no different than a Jeep. It is all how they are taken care of. Anyone that thinks different has never owned a Jeep or known people that do or they are an Ostrich. Parts can be just as cheap, but you can not go to any store to get those prices. As for things to...