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So I found this post on Tacomaworld where a guy removed the seats from his 3rd gen access cab. You could go the bracket route, or you could make a platform that rests on the area where the center console is, then put a few strips of wood underneath the sections along the seats to space it...

I was going to say, I don't see any bump stops... And I'm pretty sure he's referring to bottoming out the shock during up-travel. That being said, since there are none in there right now, I'm sure you will space the bump stops accordingly.

I'm glad you asked! I'm not sure what the setup for the access cab is but the double cab has a flat, foot wide shelf at the back where the seats bolt in. The six counterbored holes you see will utilize the M8 holes that held the seats in place. Those will serve as the primary fastening points...

Love it! Looks like a solid, well thought out build. Now let's see some pictures of where its been!

I have a set of All Pro sliders on my Tacoma and they involved drilling 4 or 5 holes in the bottom of the frame per side. Honestly it wasn't that bad. It's a small price to pay for potentially not caving in my rocker panels.

They appear to be Delphi Packard weatherpack connectors. They are advertised as being weatherproof.

Honestly that's whats stopping me at this point. Between buying a welder and the time invested in learning how to fab it all up it might be more time effective to just buy one. Of course that rationale only applies to the first few before the ROI flips in favor of making one yourself. There...

Neat. Never seen one with an external coil spring, only the single piece unit.

What's going on with that horizontal coil shock on the solid axle truck in the background?

Ah, wording is much better now. I second the fairing idea. Have you checked Craigslist for a Thule or Yakima fairing? I believe both are shaped to be able to accommodate the "aero" bar shape which more or less appears to be the shape of the Rhino Rack platform rails.

Yeppers. I second that. My old Ford Escape had significantly less power here in Denver than it did when I lived back near Boston. It got even more anemic in the hills and required a bit right foot to get around.

Spent quite a bit of time at the end of last week and over the weekend putting a bit more sweat equity into the platform and have it in a good place at the moment. After routing the relief for the center console the platform was finally in a position to chuck it in the truck for a test fitting...

You are not alone; I've been wondering the same thing. I can't edit any earlier posts in my thread either. Still haven't figured out why or a workaround.

Started the backseat platform last Thursday. I'm using 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all of it and must say that it is very high quality, solid feeling material. Certainly of a much higher quality than what can be found at Home Depot or Lowes. I can now see why it is the material of choice for...

Genius on the level of Tesla can be a crippling burden to bear.

Are you just looking to filter out particulate? Or are you looking to filter out microbes as well? Waterguard/Pentek offer a fairly comprehensive line of water filters used in the RV world and should be pretty easy to source. As far as microbe elimination you could devise a UV light system to...

Have you noticed any odor from the Rattletrap? I started doing deadening with Dynamat and it is odorless but significantly more expensive. I'm contemplating switching over to Rattletrap as well, you should never see it.

I am getting between 16-17 mpg with 90% of that as city type of mileage. That's the 4.0 with a 2.5" lift, 255 tires, ARB bumper, roof rack, sliders, a topper, and some skids.

I would echo those sentiments. I have a cab height topper and while it is sleeker looking, I would much prefer to get something significantly taller. It would just be much more useful for a lot of reasons.

Looks like it's just the holes that are stripped out. You could install some rivnuts with the appropriate thread and be good to go...