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My Chevy has a 20v fuse for that circuit. Assuming the wire stays hot when the truck is off(mine is) and assuming there isn’t excessive voltage drop under load(fridge may disconnect) I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

On the chevys you had to hook up a wire by the fuse box to get power out the seven way. It it was constant hot regardless of key position.

I looked into this extensively for my Chevy. It puts power to the trailer via the seven way plug but I wanted more. 1. Run 2awg from truck battery to trailer battery. Not cheap, kinda a lot of work, mightnot give your trailer battery a full charge due to voltage drop. 2. Same as 1 but you add...

When truck camper manufacturers list center of gravity they aren’t referring to height, but rather the distance from the front. Maybe they should list the cog height too though.

You should only have negative wires going to your shunt, and a temp sensor wire if you’re using one.

Probably echoing what’s been said above but: You’re using something like the Victorian 712 battery monitor and you need to wire the shunt? All negative wires go to one side of the shunt and the other side of the shunt goes to (house)battery negative. In your diagram above you have more than one...

I did the spacers in my s10 blazer for the same reason.

It’s a 2011 Chevy 2500 gas engine 360hp 380tq 4.10 gears factory 32.5” tires. Best fuel economy I’ve ever seen is in the 14’s average is more like 13.0 Thinking about getting an alumaduty next, 6.2 or 7.3.

If I did the math right the fuel economy is only slightly worse than my 2500 gasser does unloaded. Not bad.

The 2500 suburban maxes out at about 10k lbs.

When I had a 30 amp rig I carried a 50 to 30 amp adapter(we ended up at a Harvest Host in Amarillo once and all they had was 50a) generator to 30a RV adapter(maybe some generators have the RV style three blade?), and a 15/20 to 30 adapter that I never had to use. Also on the theme of using...

100w panels should be about 100$. Even a good solar controller that would run two panels is less than 200$.

Inverter, more solar, and a dc to dc charger from your truck battery. Probably a 40ish amp dc to dc and 2guage wiring. A generator and its fuel can(s) would take up a lot of space and payload in a truck camper. What kind of truck is it?

Looks good.

I fit a standard queen in the back of mine, but it’s above the wheel wells so less headroom. And you have to force the tailgate closed on the Chevy size box.

I’ve got a cab high aluminum contractor topper. Heavy enough two guys can barely move it. Side doors, not side windows. If I have to back up out of a parking spot it’s a giant blind spot, I just go back and pop the door up so I can see. It’ll close itself the first bump I hit. I wish I had the...

It felt like the steering shaft wasn’t connected to anything for the first inch of turning, I suppose. It seems to still be fixed. Not sure how the bolt loosend up by itself or why I wasn’t able to tighten it properly.

You could just put drawers in it. Decked or the toolbox style weather guard drawers.

Looks good. I sold our 30’ trailer, it was just too big. I borrowed a 20’ long by 7’ wide cargo trailer today and it’s much easier to maneuver.

I wonder if just covering it with jb weld or steel stick would do anything.