BTW - I don't know what's wrong with my camera. It keeps taking blurry pics. Time to replace it I guess...
That's it. One more for the books and yes, time to jump on other projects.
Thanks for listening.
It is a sleeper. Most people wouldn't even take a second glance.
I just realized I left out some important details of the build. Swapping over to the solid axle frame and mostly stock front axle assembly meant having a custom front driveshaft built. I will never completely understand which...
It really all depends on the type of driving you do. If you do a lot of deep snow or deep mud driving, wider is better. If not, even in the rocks, skinnier is the way to go.
My Rover has been running skinny tires since I built it and it does everything I want it to.
The truck is to be picked up this weekend and it is ready. Though it may not look it, this is damn near a frame up restoration. The only parts left untouched were the body paint and the transfer case. Literally every other mechanical part has been swapped, rebuilt, adjusted or assessed for...
That is the primary reason why I try to use as many OEM type parts in my builds as possible. If there's a chance it could break or wear out, I don't want to have my customer waiting for a red label package from Summit Racing for a replacement part.
“When men know not what to do , they ought not to do they know not what” - John Adams
Forever the diplomat, that's me.
Thanks. And I'm a grumpy, pragmatic type A that works alone, so I don't know what hanging out means, but I appreciate the compliment.
You are absolutely correct...
Is that a F350 high pinion D60?
I built a 2006 Tacoma a few years ago with a F350 HP 60 and it had 22.5" frame to ground clearance. Getting the panhard, tie rod and drag link all to fit was a lot of work. Also, the diff is really close to the oil pan. so bump stops will definitely be required...
It is different, I'll give you that. One thing we needed was a vertical section of 1.75 tubing on the ends (sides) of the bumper for additional spray tip mounting options. I couldn't build the standard triangulated bumper and then have a piece of tubing sticking out so that's how I came up with...
Got the front bumper built. As you may recall, there were certain criteria for the front bumper as well. Fertilizer spray tips are to be fastened to it so the customer sent me a couple so I had could build around them. We decided that he wanted something to slide out to extend the spray range. A...
Looks cool. Not enough builders here on ExPo. Welcome!
I am a fabricator in Cool. Stop by some time on your way to the Rubicon and we'll have a beer.
On a side note, I am looking for a 3.0CS (or 2800) to build with a modern BMW V8. Do you know of any good donors?
Matt
Selectable lockers are the only way to go. If you drive in the rain or snow, Detroit lockers (in the rear) can be actually very dangerous.
Have you thought about factory Toyota electric lockers? FJ80 front and Tacoma rear, can be had for about $300 each (used) and if you look hard enough, you...
No, late model chassis. I am still deliberating which way to go with that truck. I have a set of Hummer Beadlocks that would tuck in nicely under the fenders, but if I go "military" on that truck, it's going to be "period correct".
Or I could just start over and go "in the weeds". I've never...
Thanks.
I have a rule here that no two bumpers shall ever be the same, but as the years go by, that's getting harder and harder to achieve. Not only because I'm running out of ideas, but because sometimes there is a design that just works.
The AllPro bumper is about as basic as it can get...
Both items you bring up have been discussed between the customer and I. And no, that's not a nerd alert, that's a legitimate observation. I always strive to keep the good engineering when modding a vehicle, but sometimes you have to make concessions. In this case, we couldn't do the rear steer...
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