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Yea. I did the one on the '05 2 months ago. Easy job. Replaced the 2 of the guide pulleys and rebuilt the tensioner pulley (standard 6203 bearing about $10, get one that can handle high RPM). Order all the parts before ya start the job. Amazing how much quieter it is now.

I built mine from Summit purchased components (Russell) for my '88 - which are not much different than Gen 2 / 2.5. I followed essentially this post but replaced the rear Earls line with one from Russell http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1172561&page=4&fpart=all&vc=1

RPM, Tire Size, Speed Calculator. Works in Excel and Openoffice http://www.ns-micro.com/~phanson/GearRatio_Truck_Jan15.xls

Can be built from components (Summit) for about $100 for the set.

Sort of. In the case of CKD it stays exactly the same as from the original vehicle as it uses a kit of parts from the original build factory. If the OEM feels there is a market to sell their vehicle in various countries but either logistics or tax is too high to have a viably affordable...

This is a breakdown kit of all the parts from Fiat/Chrysler/Jeep and they are assembled in the off shore assembly plant.

I've got your cell number from about 2 years ago. Is it the same? Need to talk to you a bit about this. Thanks. Paul

http://www.car-part.com

225lbs if I remember correctly. Its in the owners manual :-) Check ebay or junk yard or dealer for the OM

Being Nick removed his locker, what did he do with the correct shorter axle shaft?

Definitely GLWYS, I own 4 of these trucks across various years and the more the market appreciates the happier we all are. !!!

O.P. says the "new" motor has 90K on it. Many people still think that its about worn out even thou these should easily go 200K plus with good maintenance. Its hard to change opinion. Unless ya really need the $$$$ you get for it. Too many LC fanatics out there. Easily double or triple the...

a '96 with a stick! Not so common (in the US).

yea, that is a tough call. Most of the items are just normal PM for a vehicle with nearly 300K miles (most don't make it this far!) and it is difficult to find anybody to pay extra for that.

The bolts/nuts should be no big deal. Just mild steel metric grade 8.8 - nothing special. Copper or brass nuts would be nice although not mandatory. Do you have the "old" springs that you could match up to something at your local NAPA or Midas or hardware store.

Certainly best to double check your VIN in ASA. Do you have it? If not, ASA is available here: http://www.mitsubishilinks.com

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Strong-Aluminum-Bi-Fold-Loading-Ramp/dp/B004IW1RQC/?tag=viglink20599-20

I have my RTT on top of my ARB rack and am planning on a new solution for the coming summer. Adds about 6" of unneeded height to the situation. Will probably go with 4 Yakima gutter mount pairs and an aluminum ATV ramp. 48" x 90"

LHD Diesel Troopy with a pop-top camping conversion

Here is a photo of the 3.0L pulley (harmonic balancer) - mine, note the difference of the keyway slot in the 3.0L vs. the roll pin hole in the 3.5L pulley in Jay's photo.