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Can you provide more clarification on the damage and repair necessary? Both of them have aluminum skins and Bundutec appears to be bonded in a single sheet with some backer (luan or azdel or...?). And I'd assume, maybe incorrectly, that the frame, foam, and skins are a bonded unit on all of...

Any photos of what your mounting looks like? Pretty standard 3 point with pivot in the rear, or something else?

Your rig has some sort of pivot doesn't it? Disconnecting the swaybars might help a little, but the chassis will still "want" to twist a lot if it's open C.

What exactly do you do with this information, and when do you need it? Where I live and camp, clear, dry, high altitude are common, and I usually park in the open. At night the air is often very still, and radiation is a big factor. I'll sometimes check the temp of various surfaces with an IR...

^ True, but I wouldn't do it like that...

A "backup" camera mounted to the front with a display would take care of the frontal view at least.

Yikes... no stiff shell is going to like that. Just make a pivoting bed, and no worries. I used Energy Suspension poly isolators to make a pseudo 3 point, with actually way more than 3 points of support. Easy to spread the load. Front ones wide, and the rest on the centerline. They are ~$17/ea...

The twisted illogic you used was amazing.

^ The hood on all new trucks is ridiculous (height mostly, and length) but I think the Fords look a little better, and the GM are the worst.

I'd just mention that fat low pressure tires are a slog on pavement. I can see using MTB tires for gravel, though. Yes, like this ^. Have you thought about getting a 2nd set of wheels with some fast tires for pavement? If you shim your brake discs and cassette gears to be identical, it's an...

Yup. Layer of 18oz on each side probably, but 6oz or none would be adequate for most things. EPVC works as a core, but it lacks strength and stiffness, and it isn't that light. In hindsight I wish I'd just paid the cost for the Coosa.

I was going to use Coosa (1/4") for building underbody storage boxes, but shipping doubles the price! Seems like good stuff, though. I ended up using EPVC and fiberglass, but I'm thinking Coosa would have been worth it, honestly...

There is a lot of wood in the walls. The only downside I see to foam core/FRP skin panels is that they are kinda ugly and not aero... and they are also lacking hard points inside the walls, but that can be dealt with. I'd want detailed specs on the foam, skins, joints, and adhesives used...

It's a structural joint and very solid, and no way it can leak. Traditional camper seams between panels appear to just be cracks with a cover and sealant, and these do not give me a warm feeling at all. Of course on any camper there will be some penetrations for vents, panels, etc... which is...

I'd suggest a gravel or allroad with drop bars to give you the most versatility. Don't worry about suspension, at least not at first... it's going to be so much smoother and faster than riding offroad. Get some nice quality road tires in the 30-40mm range, set the appropriate pressure, and see...

Can you tell me the precise size/model/spec tires you are comparing? Large tires do not necessarily mean less MPG even on the highway, and there are massive differences in the rolling resistance between brands, models, etc. My Hankook ATMs (325/65r18 so basically fat, heavy, 35s) are phenomenal...

^ Do the seams on the Bundutech require sealing maintenance? How are the walls built?

Is your truck open-C? If it's fully boxed it won't flex enough to matter. If you get a slide-in, then the spring struts you use should flex enough if it's open-C. Like sn-85 said, this is very robust construction... I'd say extreme overkill actually on the joints. But these campers are pretty...

The companies rely on prior experience quite alot... via lawsuits, warranty repairs, and failures that get publicized. Of course they do complex analysis and testing too, but as you can imagine the actual forces that the vehicle is subjected to can vary hugely, and weight is only one part of the...

You could still put a ST on it. IMO the way to do it is buy or DIY a custom frame/platform 50" wide and low, then build out the sides with storage and fenders.