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Largo Tank and Altra Fabrication have been mentioned recently in a thread. You might check those out. Also note that if you will be using a C channel chassis, then you should have an articulating bed.

You need something that fits in the slots, and attaches to the pedestal.

None of it is "necessary" unless you get big military tires, and even then there are much cheaper ways to do it. I'm fine with Buckstop going after the "spare no expense, here's the check" crowd, but if you want to use a F450-F550 chassis and you can keep your rear axle weight <~8,000 lbs...

It only slides back and forth, I guess... and the cable holds it in place? This might work: Springfield Universal Trac-Lock Slide

I'm used to vehicles that are super easy... like 5 minutes in the parking lot. So I was shocked to discover how unfriendly the Tundras are. People say to allow 2 days for DIY... and often that they'd pony up the $1,200 rather than do it again... That sucks about the mice/rats! They seem to...

You mentioned this company, but I wondered if you asked about the 17" custom steel wheels? If you go with LT tires, it looks like a good option for more meat on the tire, but 37s would be fine on 20" rims as well. https://www.stazworks.com/steel-wheels

The rims are in the $700-$1250 range, each. I don't know what else you are including, but someone building a F350 will get rims and tires too... so the rim premium is the real cost. It looks like Stazworks makes steel 17" rims, which seems like a good option if you are using LT tires...

I'm curious about wearing out the alternators. On my Tundra they aren't really made to be replaced; it's ~$1200 job. I can understand how nice it is to have engine charging, though.

What exactly does it do? Maybe there are others...

^I'd expect those to be decent, so I don't know. Should be way better than military tires anyway.

I was looking at Superdutys recently, and Ford's site was all messed up... Most AWD comes on when you have wheel slip I think; definitely not full time like Subaru.

What tires do you have? Tire rolling resistance (bigness isn't the problem) x weight and frontal area x drag coefficient are the main loads. I'm averaging ~15 mpg with my Tundra on long highway roundtrips. Stand up flatbed camper, leveled, fat 35s, ~7600 lbs. I'd expect a difference, but not...

You don't have universal fitment, but since your camper is flatbed style you'll have to clear the tires as well. You surely know this, but thought I'd mention it...

Weird, I would have sworn that Renogy used to recommend no more than 20A for a 100A alternator, but now up to 1/2 the alternator capacity seems to be recommended...

Good luck...

Are you going to start a thread? Just curious, not pressuring... hell, I never made a thread about mine... :p

Dokio 200W folding glass/aluminum, ~$150 on amazon. If it's on a separate MPPT I'd recommend wiring it for 24V (actually ~32V) by putting them in series. You can have a long run of not ridiculously fat wires then, which is nice if there are trees, or you just want to park in the shade.

Probably 20A unless you have a high output alternator, then look up a DC wire size chart and buy pure copper wiring, or if it's CCA adjust accordingly. BTW, MPPT is for solar panels only. I assume you are talking about dual input?

The main drawbacks to plastics are poor stiffness, high creep, and high coefficient of thermal expansion. The fiberglass reinforcement of FRP takes care of those issues, which is why it is widely used. The more fiberglass in the matrix the better. I've seen panels commercially made that use...