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Looking at the tiny photo at the bottom of your last post (....404.jpeg), the swerving while towing is because the axles are too far forward on the chassis frame. I realize they can't be moved at this point. What I would suggest is installing a tongue box and loading it down with weight...

If I recall, you were building a teardrop and considering skinning with aluminum? Am I correct? I used a Classic Accessories cover for this endeavor for seven-ish years. It worked fine. I'm a bit fancier now: :cool: Tony

I get it. But if you build a teardrop, install a Propex propane stove. They're the perfect heater for 'drops. Tony

Do you have a photo of it you can post? I still think it's where the axle is mounted on the chassis frame. This is where it should be: The parked issue doesn't make sense unless one or both of your axles are loose. Tony

Do you mean it becomes unstable while towing? If so, that means you don't have enough tongue weight. You need to move your battery to the front or move the axles to the rear–preferably at the 40/60 point on the trailer frame. As far as the trailer bouncing, that's because of the 600 pounds...

Here's another teardrop that's come from the pages of my book. I'm pleased and I think this guy is too. Tony

The Scamps have a good reputation. As far as modifying one to make it more off-the-beaten-path friendly, I can't say. I suspect there's a Facebook page that may be a good place to ask that question. Teardrops aren't for everyone. They make you cook outside and eat outside. But allow you to...

I just use Minwaxy polyurethane on the interior and galley. The exterior is fiberglass/epoxy with Monstanliner. Tony

For a fabricator to weld one up from steel? One thing you might consider is buying a flux-core welder, finding a mentor and welding one up yourself. 2 x 2" .120 steel tubing is easy for a novice to weld. Tony

If I understand, you are asking if the inside of the sheathing should be varnished on the interior side before attaching to the framework. I'll vote no. I think sheathing should be attached using TB3 (and screws or crown staples), and any surface treatment will negate the glue's ability to...

If you weld the tubing shut, it won't appreciably rust inside. Or live in a low-humidity environment. It was common with aircraft with frames made from welded tubing that the major pieces had some linseed oil added to them before they were sealed off. A crack would show when the oil began...

The last hooraw before winter shuts the door. Another fine trip. :cool: (y) Tony

I'll go so far as to say it depends on who designed it and who fabricated it. (You may be right! ) But why risk it? The steel trailer won't crack. Tony

The need to light the heater and the fact it doesn't have a thermostat is a no-deal for me for a teardrop. I think it would be a great addition to something like a truck camper. Tony

A Propex isn't much bigger than a shoe box. Tony

They are just too large (plus their clearance requirements) for a 5' wide teardrop cabin. I find the Propex is a perfect heater for a teardrop. Tony

I've got a friend with one in his truck-bed camper and he likes it a lot. There's just no way to put one in a teardrop. Tony

You've got it right. The black tube is hot air and the lighter tube returns the air from the cabin to the heater.

That's doable with the Propex HS2211. Mine is the HS2000 and it isn't waterproof. Tony

Another fine two-nighter. And it was great camping alongside my 2013 build, Flash. Tony