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A half ton Ford at that age and mileage, its likely a combination of reasons why it failed. Any photos of the current truck and camper?

Out this morning to beat the heat with MrCole. :cool:

Ill always recommend a rear pivot for a few reasons. Biggest one is the allowable space between cab and camper can be much less with a rear pivot. This helps bring the overall COG as well as height down. Second one is with regard to weight shifts as the truck rocks left-right. A well...

Id love to see an example or two of such a case, but I doubt you will find reference to it at all. 👍

A new 6.2 Superduty? Agreed. No upgrades needed. We haul a 3000lb (wet) camper with a 2011 superduty and stock brakes are still more than adequate. 👍 You may, however need to do upgrades to carry the weight a bit better than stock. Bags, add-a-leaf, custom leaf pack, etc.

Knowing what vehicle you have would help. 👍

As mentioned, most are junk in snow and ice. Big lugs, no siping, and hard (long wearing) compound.

This is the largest error in the claims within this thread, and so many others. GVWR in the US, so long as you do not operate commercially, is NOT the legal limit. GVWR is not law. Never has been. Some areas/states in the country have adopted additional laws/regs in efforts if curbing...

I dont believe anyone referred to it as a scam. More like red-tape. And if you do not believe the over/under differences of that magical 10k GVWR, thats on you. Don't blame us for your ignorance.

Like it or not, unless you have a vehicle that falls under commercial reg’s or are obnoxiously over your GVWR, being over has little to nothing to do with legality in the USA. Feel free to prove me wrong, and be sure to site instances that resulted in charges and/or lawsuits. 😉 Ive said...

Agreed about tire pressures, but be certain to consult a tire inflation chart before dropping PSI. Running the high load Toyo AT2's we do, we roll loaded with the camper at 60PSI front, 75PSI rear. Empty, I drop it to 45PSI front, 40PSI rear Those numbers (loaded) are for warmer months...

;)

Poser pic after a suspension and brakes overhaul/upgrades More than ever, ready and willing to haul the camper :cool:

And loaded heights, with no air in the bags...

Unloaded :cool:

After some consideration, I opted to fabricate some 1-1/2" rear blocks that mount below the OEM blocks/bumpstop tabs And since Ive never liked the hardware that the bags use, I integrated bag mounts into the blocks. The alternative, adding height with the leafs, simply wouldn't work as it would...

Lots of ways to go about it. For my build I went super simple and lightweight (and inexpensive) by framing and then skinning all interior cabs. Frames were all built using VG Hemlock, PL glued and pocket screwed. Bottoms of all cabs utilize 6mm ply. The remainder utilize 3mm birch "door...

You are beyond fine with LP We can go for months on a single 20# cylinder even during the winter months. That's an LP furnace keeping things nice and warm, coffee every morning, hot soups for lunch, and grilled whatever for dinner, and as needed bathing, for two adults. I get the ideal for...

Besides the obvious MPG situation, I wouldnt sweat a V10, especially the ‘youngest’ of the bunch. Engine is an absolute animal and great trans

After things were buttoned up I went for a 25 mile drive. Certainly stiffer, but if nothing else feels and handles like a new truck. Even empty, Im super happy so far.... Though the truck is essentially level now. Rear was raised less than an inch, and front a solid 3 inches, which actually...