Search results

I'd look at a receiver/swing out mounting system for your bikes; the combination of risk of injury/damage carrying them up there, the crazy amount of height when they are up there, and the PITA pulling them down just for a short ride would be (for me) too many cons..

If you can keep your foot out of it they are surprising good, if however, you feel like you need to keep up with the diesel rigs on grades you will be in the 2mpg range and watching the coolant gauge rise as fast as the fuel gauge falls...they are great motors, and if you got one in the early...

and a hell of a lot quieter..

When you do the handle extension just add some shape to it to the inboard.

wow! that's ugly..

a lot of time cleaning a painting...they don't put that in the "car guy" brochure..

That's a good score...nice to know if you ever trash it you can get a new one and not get killed with custom shaft cost.

my bust, I didn't pay attention to the fact that it is an earlier van..

That's a huge hurdle already cleared then...someone must have put in some serious effort to get the cummins ecm to talk to the ford dash/body systems..

yep, modified the stock one, I had to put a slight bend in it to improve clearance around the front of the crank pulley at full compression and I had to use a different pitman arm(longer and more drop) but that was about it.. I reread my own post and I did have to shorten it some too. Here's a...

Until you can say definitively what your alignment measurements are you are shooting at a moving target, those would be the first questions Weldtec or Boulder would ask you. Using a custom upper a-arm, spindle and spacer could work together just fine, as the spindle and a-arm arm are designed to...

It's not just the ends that are crappy, they have very small diameter adjuster sleeves as well, there are a bunch of companies that make good replacements, something like this is worth the money...

yeah...any alignment shop that doesn't provide you a printed before/after sheet is jerking you around..

getting the dash and body systems to work right will be a handful but a cool project/challenge, might even be worth looking at a ram pickup dash/wire harness swap..

What is your caster measurement? Typically on a lifted rig you want to run a couple degrees more than stock, a good baseline setting would 5dg. Did you add a steering stabilizer? when you lift you add a bunch of angle to the tie rods so every dip you hit in the road translates to greater...

Neapco combo joints are good stuff, I had to run a 1480/1410 on my Duramax converted FMC Motorhome

a lot of the hydroboost equipped 2500/3500's have a 1 7/16" bore Master Cylinder, they move a lot of fluid..

worth the $130 a piece for new loaded LCAs!! LOL!!

Are you able to do all this work yourself? There is considerable metal fab/welding required. The older frame design doesn't support IFS and would be very difficult to make the coil sprung solid front axles work, you would likely be looking at a leaf sprung solid front axle which is not known...

you may get some stability with adjusting your tire pressure; if you are going to run them in these conditions regularly you should get them (professionally) siped