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yep...mine(hightop 4x4) loaded out for camping (close to 10klbs)with the scooter on the back gets 15mpg hwy.

the allison swap is not something I'd recommend to anyone, it was a personal challenge for myself (I don't like to be told "you can't do that") and I'm super happy with the result, but, it's a massive commitment.

Most that get one don't ever sell it...that combined with the low production numbers make them tough to find (and was a big part of why I built mine).

nope, mine is huge, it holds an entire quart of fluid...I do think there are some from the early 90's with the sloping reservoirs that might be an option if you come to need it..

get a pressure bleeder...I played hell getting the air out of the abs module on mine and that's with having the gm tech2 scanner and running the self bleed function...those front calipers are huge...your bleed will have to be perfect.

some of the listings for them show 4.25" bs...sure looks like more than that..

I've had great luck with the cooper at3 and I'm now trying the falken wildpeak which so far I like just as well

I've never looked up what the backspacing is, it has to be a pretty good amount because on the 4wd F250's the lockouts stuck way out past the tire bulge and guys would shear them off on tree stumps.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/517631272300352/

check and see if these are standard or metric... https://charlotte.craigslist.org/wto/d/gastonia-5-alcoa-8-lug-ford-rims-and/7060065792.html

where are you located?

I just saw these on CL and thought about your build. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/wto/d/bell-16-alcoa-wheels-obs-ford/7069166105.html

that combination of size, lug pattern and offset is a tough nut to crack...you may be better off just having some re-hooped to 17x8...you'd have a lot better tire selection and you could tune the offset a bit. I think Stockton Wheel still rehoops steel wheels

me just noticing the age of this OP..

Those fronts are going to rub as soon as you compress and turn. I run the same size with a lot more lift and just clear them. Nothing wrong with the IFS, it's excellent for a small lift like that.

In this case I would convert to -3an braided teflon hoses and banjo adapters...it's extremely handy to be able to carry a single hose as a spare and you can cap/plug them easily for removal maintenance. You can buy premade hoses on Summit, speedway, amazon, ebay, etc...that are DOT cert and...

It was just something I noticed on an Alcoa application/wheel spec chart a few years back when I was researching wheels, I have no idea how available they are or specifics for donors, IIRC the difference was approx 25mm in offset but it's been a good 3 years since I looked at that..

availability would be the first, they are everywhere...second is the availability of parts/gears/lockers etc...third, brakes, they have massive twin piston disc that are fantastic and have very long life...and finally (for me) they are full floating...I'm one of those guys who has had a rear...

some of the 80-90's 1 ton dually pickups used alcoa's on the outside that had less offset than the steel inner (standard budd wheel) take a look at those, it might be as close as you'll get...for spacers/adapters...only buy BORA(and yes, they are expensive). IIWM, I'd swap the diff to a 10.5AAM.

I run ram wheels on my Chevy 11.5AAM rear, I had some hub centric spacer rings cut to make up the difference. You can find acorn lug nuts with the larger flare to work with the large ram countersink profile.

yeah I've had good and bad on the powdercoating as well...I would at least go with a good blast on it, do your rough prep with the flappers then have it sand blasted (probably $30) that'll smooth it out a bit and get all those inside corners that are a major PITA. You can just give it a...