Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.

[shade]

Also, as a note the van rides great with the new suspenion. I need to find some crap roads once its 100%, but its already better than the factory front end by a significant margin.

I know valving is an educated guess, even when ordering from a retailer that says they adjust them for specific models of vehicles. As much improvement as is usually seen with just that much input, I always wonder how much better a shock will perform when someone that knows what they're about spends time driving a vehicle and tuning the ride for it.

My shocks are getting close to rebuild mileage, but I doubt I'll change the setup, since I know what's there works well as is.

 

[mountainhick]

Since most 17"+ wheels are in the 8"+ wide range, you will max out a 245 tire around 8" I think. At more than +1" backspacing, the tire sidewall will be close to touching the UCA at full droop.

I hadn't intended to go full bro truck with the wide track, but its a trade off I am willing to make.


Also, as a note the van rides great with the new suspenion. I need to find some crap roads once its 100%, but its already better than the factory front end by a significant margin.

Thanks for that consideration of larger wheels inherently being wider. Trading clearance for rim width is a wash anyway.

Nice to hear about the Fox setup!

Just hope I can get back to the project when the snow melts.

 

[luthj]

My shocks are getting close to rebuild mileage, but I doubt I'll change the setup, since I know what's there works well as is.

Honestly, if your shocks still have their gas charge, and aren't leaking/seeping oil, I would leave them alone. They are easy to rebuild, but there is still a risk of human error affecting reliability. Piston seal is the only wear part which was dramatically affect damping, and its a pretty wear resistance PTFE. If the shaft bearing starts to go, you will have some warning, as the shaft seal will loose a bit of oil after a hard run.

Just hope I can get back to the project when the snow melts.

You and me both!

I may have to slow down a bit on the van. I will try to get the brakes ironed out though. We are hunting for a new home, so that will require a local move sometime in the next 8 weeks.

 

[shade]

Honestly, if your shocks still have their gas charge, and aren't leaking/seeping oil, I would leave them alone. They are easy to rebuild, but there is still a risk of human error affecting reliability. Piston seal is the only wear part which was dramatically affect damping, and its a pretty wear resistance PTFE. If the shaft bearing starts to go, you will have some warning, as the shaft seal will loose a bit of oil after a hard run.

Yeah, I won't bother until there are signs of actual need for service.

Otoh, when I install new rear shock mounts & shocks, I may sell all four and replace the fronts.

 

[Len.Barron]

air in the brake lines, these big GM calipers just don't want to bleed fully. Though it could be air in the ABS valve body too. I guess the third option is that the GM calipers are just too big for the MC (please god, no...)
Recheck alignment

get a pressure bleeder...I played hell getting the air out of the abs module on mine and that's with having the gm tech2 scanner and running the self bleed function...those front calipers are huge...your bleed will have to be perfect.

 

[luthj]

get a pressure bleeder...

Yeah, I got one on order. There could be some air in the rear lines too. I didn't open them, but the MC was drained, so who knows.

I REALLY don't want to swap the MC. Its already pretty close to the hood, and I doubt the GM reservoir is low profile.

 

[Len.Barron]

and I doubt the GM reservoir is low profile.

nope, mine is huge, it holds an entire quart of fluid...I do think there are some from the early 90's with the sloping reservoirs that might be an option if you come to need it..

 

[Stingy49]

Been a while since I checked in. This has come a long way! Super cool to see.

 

[luthj]

Here is the rub at full bump. Easy enough to fix.



A friend has offered to let me use his STAR/XENTRY diagnostic tool, so I will try an ABS power bleed this weekend. Fingers crossed. If it works I can do some longer test drives on the highway. If no issues come up, I will measure and order a front driveshaft.

Looking forward, anyone know what years GM started using ABS sensors on the 2500 rear axles? The yards aren't always accurate in their descriptions. Some rough measuring indicates I should be able to fab some shock, spring, and sway bar brackets pretty easy. I may try to source a taller leaf pack, so I can get rid of the 2" lift spacer and resultant axle wrap.

 

[b dkw1]

Spacer blocks are bad Umkay. Taller pack with a longer shackle would be much better.

 

[luthj]

Ran the ABS unit through a bleed cycle. Brakes good now. Pedal still slowly sinks with the engine running. I don't think its air. I will order a new MC, since the 3500 sprinters is slightly larger, I will go with that to start.

What I thought was ABS activation during braking, was actually the bell housing rubbing on the diff. During heavy braking the engine is shifting forward about 0.2", making contact. So I need to remove a bit more material. Makes sense, as the engine is pretty heavy. I can adjust the rear mount to restrict this some, which should help.

Still getting a bit of rubbing on the steel bumper, so I need to break out the cut off wheel again.

 

[luthj]

Took a break from house hunting to do another bleed. Its not going to get any better I think. Good news is that even with with the soft pedal it stops like a brick wall. Just takes a bit of foot travel.

I am getting some ASR activation on right hand turns, which would make sense, cause my steering wheel is offset to the right, and I have mismatched tires and tone hubs.

I did a final (hopefully) pass on the bellhousing with the grinder. No noise there, though the tires have a bit of a drone. Though maybe the uncovered strut mounts are partially to blame...

My only complaint is there isn't enough caster. I will incorporate more into the next revision. For myself I may see if offset upper BJs are available. Its not dangerous, just requires more attention. About the way it was with the stock suspension actually.

 

[luthj]

Anyone got a good online source for custom driveshafts? I am going to measure and take a look at the junkard, but I am not terribly hopefully of finding an off the shelf option. The clutch in my car started slipping, so I guess I'm doing a clutch job this next weekend, so might be a few weeks till I get around to it.

 

[b dkw1]

I would find a place close to you and drive it over there for the DS. Let them measure it, that way if it doesn't fit it's on them. I'm about 50/50 on getting correct shafts when I have done the measurements. Even when done exactly how they specified.

 

[shade]

Anyone got a good online source for custom driveshafts? I am going to measure and take a look at the junkard, but I am not terribly hopefully of finding an off the shelf option. The clutch in my car started slipping, so I guess I'm doing a clutch job this next weekend, so might be a few weeks till I get around to it.

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If there's a good transmission or DS shop nearby, I do as b1 said. If not, Tom Wood has a good reputation.