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what do you have on the floor now? check the engine cover fit up carefully, any gaps will cause a lot of noise..

for your viewing pleasure...I'm still not sure about the tires...but she is worth the time.

Nice work; you've got a bunch of labor in that thing...I've built a few bumpers and cutting fitting thicker material takes a lot of time. After you build one yourself you know why the shops charge so much and when a buddy says "hey...can you build one for me?" you have to struggle not to slap...

Jam nut probably came loose, that' about the only way to strip those out. if you just replace the welded in bung be sure to not get the 7/8" heim bung they have a different TPI than the 7/8" TRE bung and be sure to get the correct left or right hand threaded bung...

all of the lighting harness runs through the body so I don't know why it would say that. If it's anywhere (and I doubt it is) it would be behind the interior plastic at the drivers side rear corner of the cargo area, right below the drivers side tail light. I had to buy a "t-harness" to add it...

getting the bushings out of the later stamped steel design(when they need replacement) is always a treat...you have to make an insert to keep from crushing it and usually a fair amount of heat(and the burning rubber smoke that comes with it.. cognito also sells some nice UCAs

I'm going to agree with the idea of using the 2.5 and tubular upper, both are really in-keeping with your desire to first be reliable/durable, second to be easily maintainable(since you're drifting from stock with the coilover to begin with). The 2.5 will be dramatically more durable, and, on...

GM is about to release the 6.6L gas engine for their 2500/3500 series trucks, it appears that the "war on diesel" is in full swing..

looks like they dropped the 3.2l 5cyl. powerstroke ...?

Just for ideas on using stock control arms:

Redhead boxes are adjusted extremely tight right from them so I'm surprised they endorsed you making a further adjustment. Lifted rigs can be tricky you almost always have a lot of angle at the draglink as it drops down to the axle so just a little looseness anywhere shows up as a lot of play...

be careful with how they are registered, many are difficult to get switched from commercial to RV or passenger and depending on your state both your registration and insurance fees go up significantly..

That's the tough thing about working with a vehicle that was designed overseas, getting any real useful engineering data is damn near impossible and those that have it aren't going to just share it in the open. Compare that to something like the GM Upfitter site where they publish frame drawings...

While it's tedious work, mocking everything up, connnecting all the parts always shows something that you would have otherwise missed, it's also a great opportunity to clean and paint older parts...none of this is a valuable as standing in front of it with your hands on you hips and staring at...

fab work difference IFS vs SAS is maybe just slightly more on the IFS...not really going to be the determining factor. If you want the best comfort/handling and don't want much lift then go IFS...If you want to run 35's and have no rubbing then SAS is the way to go. Not that you couldn't get...

from a little bit of searck if you don't have to pay a mortgage then renting a nice big garage bay should be easy money..

it's a lot of fabrication work, and is effectively what Quigley did for their conversions, if you want an IFS Express/Savana 4x4 van you'd be better served buying a used Quigley.

looks like the euro version uses the MK7 drivetrain configuration

I doubt it will make it here...at least not in any qtys that would make it more affordable than working with Quigley. I really like the idea of a 3.2 Powerstroke with a GM IFS swap and that's why I'm watching the thread here on the board for doing the same to a sprinter..

Yeah, if you look at the MC bore on a 2500hd pickup you can get an idea of just how much volume they use. IIRC they are 37mm, a lot bigger than most you'll see.